Wood Fence Post Question

[Jake]

We use all hedge around our area. They are plentiful and nothing else lasts. A good big hedge will last 100+ years and crappy small one will last 30-50 if you don't burn them up. A telephone post RR tie or creosote is lucky to last 5 years.

 

[Banjo]

We use all hedge around our area. They are plentiful and nothing else lasts. A good big hedge will last 100+ years and crappy small one will last 30-50 if you don't burn them up. A telephone post RR tie or creosote is lucky to last 5 years.

Are you talking about hedge apple trees....often called orange osage?

 

[hurleyjd]

We use all hedge around our area. They are plentiful and nothing else lasts. A good big hedge will last 100+ years and crappy small one will last 30-50 if you don't burn them up. A telephone post RR tie or creosote is lucky to last 5 years.

Are you talking about hedge apple trees....often called orange osage?

Maclura pomifera , or bois de arc or the common name here in EastTexas is Bodark. Also horse apple tree. Most fence post here in the past would have been split post oak for line post and corners would have been mulberry. That was before any one heard of tee post and treated post.

 

[greybeard]

Most of the railroad ties and surplus cut up utility poles I put in as corner posts here, when I was 16, are still here. Some are indeed rotted at the top, some have rotted at ground level, but many others are still solid. That is only 50 years of course, but I did learn a life's lesson. I used to think I needed everything I built, to last a lifetime. Now, I realize too little too late.......that I only needed it to last MY lifetime. Most of these posts have.

 

[M.Magis]

So you've seen post rot off at the top to.
Probably wouldn't have lasted near as long without the cap

Yep, lots of them. The ones I've seen rot off at the base, in my opinion, rotted because they weren't set/packed good enough. The loose soil holds water around the post.

 

[Bigfoot]

All light poles, and telephone poles are not created equal. Some rot fast, and some last for years. I have access to all I want of each, but use neither.

 

[jedstivers]

I have split high line poles as fence post in a fence post that was build in 1985.

 

[Banjo]

We use all hedge around our area. They are plentiful and nothing else lasts. A good big hedge will last 100+ years and crappy small one will last 30-50 if you don't burn them up. A telephone post RR tie or creosote is lucky to last 5 years.

Are you talking about hedge apple trees....often called orange osage?

Maclura pomifera , or bois de arc or the common name here in EastTexas is Bodark. Also horse apple tree. Most fence post here in the past would have been split post oak for line post and corners would have been mulberry. That was before any one heard of tee post and treated post.

Here in Ky we have a few trees called hedgeapple or orange osage that is very rot resistant. There is just not that many around though.

 

[hurleyjd]

Black locust was used as post by our ancestors and good chance other types of wood that was local handy and durable.
http://gardengrapevine.com/LocustPosts.html

 

[Banjo]

Now we have lots of locust around.

 

[Bigfoot]

Very difficult to get a staple (In Ky pronounced steeple) in a seasoned locust post.

 

[Philip-TX]

We built one a few years ago, out of cedar, that my grand-kids-kids might have to maintain eventually.

We built it like my grandpa and his dad did, and those are still holding up.

 

[Cross-7]

Cedars post last forever, looks good and add a couple cedar staves between each post and you've got a really good fence.
The bad
If there is a fire you lose your post.
Like the post in the picture in a few years that bark will slough off and ever tie wire will have to be retied.
If wild cattle hit that fence trying to get through they snap the post.

With T-post and 2-7/8 pipe every 10th T-post or so you don't have worry about fire, retying wires to post, they don't break off if cattle hit it (might stretch the wire or bust some wires)

If you don't have a lot to maintain you can't beat the look of cedar post and staves though

 

[msplmtneer]

If you are considering treated wood posts look at the heart wood the more heart wood the less treatment is in the wood.
Also get the highest level you can, I personally wouldn't use anything less than 1.0 , check the tag on the end it will tell you the level treatment and warranty. Ask for the MSDS sheets and the name of the treating company.
Chester :tiphat:

 

[Ebenezer]

I put 4' of post in the ground for a HT fence and will put a gate post in the ground up to 5' if it is going to be a single post or in a corral. I had a pair of the posthole diggers that have two pivot points so that the tops of the handles did not open more than about 6 or 8" and the blades would be closed. I really liked them and feel like I need to use them. One handle broke and one is bent. Before I take them to a welding shop for a redo, does anyone have a pair or use a brand that holds up well? These were not a high priced pair and were from a big box store but worked good for a while. Thanks.

 

[fenceman]

This is what we use. We use a hand sledge to bend the edges of the blades a little more. I,m familiar with the double jointed type and their pretty good. Except for the fiberglass handles. When they break we replace them with 1.25 rebar. I do always make sure there's one pair with fiberglass handles on the truck for digging around electric lines.

http://afence.com/store/HD-POST-HOLE-DIGGER.html

 

[Rafter S]

Very difficult to get a staple (In Ky pronounced steeple) in a seasoned locust post.

It's pretty easy to drive a staple in the bois d' arc posts someone referred to above, as long as they're green. After they cure you can forget about it, unless you drill pilot holes.

 

[Bigfoot]

This is what we use. We use a hand sledge to bend the edges of the blades a little more. I,m familiar with the double jointed type and their pretty good. Except for the fiberglass handles. When they break we replace them with 1.25 rebar. I do always make sure there's one pair with fiberglass handles on the truck for digging around electric lines.

http://afence.com/store/HD-POST-HOLE-DIGGER.html

Fenceman,

I use a set of linemans diggers for hand diggers. They are about worn out out. If the diggers you posted are the best, I'm gonna go ahead, and order a pair.

 

[fenceman]

This is what we use. We use a hand sledge to bend the edges of the blades a little more. I,m familiar with the double jointed type and their pretty good. Except for the fiberglass handles. When they break we replace them with 1.25 rebar. I do always make sure there's one pair with fiberglass handles on the truck for digging around electric lines.

http://afence.com/store/HD-POST-HOLE-DIGGER.html

Fenceman,

I use a set of linemans diggers for hand diggers. They are about worn out out. If the diggers you posted are the best, I'm gonna go ahead, and order a pair.

Their about as heavy built as you can buy. I like the buckeye style diggers. They are much more versatile than the round type. Work good in rocky ground and heavy clay.

Will were talking hand diggers, a little trick.
When you working in wet sticky ground that sticks to your diggers and clogs em up. Clean the blades off good and spray em with a no_stick cooking spray. You'll be surprised how much it helps.

 

[Bigfoot]

Thanks. I want to talk to them when I order, and I haven't remembered it during daylight hours yet.