Wood Fence Post Question

[HDRider]

I have two runs of high tensile electric. I want to go as far between posts as the terrain will allow. It is a permanent fence.

My first thought is using 6" wood posts on the corners and gates, with 4" holding the wires

Knowing that a wooden telephone pole does not rot, what do I look for to guarantee the same durability on posts I buy?

It seems like most wood posts are crap.

 

[M.Magis]

Telephone posts do rot. But they're a lot large in diameter than fence posts, and can last a lot longer. If you really want rot proof, hedge is probably the closest you'll find. But they aren't cheap. Wonder if anyone here has tried the 4" poly posts? They wouldn't rot, and I think they're cheaper than hedge posts.

 

[dun]

Telephone posts do rot. But they're a lot large in diameter than fence posts, and can last a lot longer. If you really want rot proof, hedge is probably the closest you'll find. But they aren't cheap. Wonder if anyone here has tried the 4" poly posts? They wouldn't rot, and I think they're cheaper than hedge posts.

I had always heard the same thing about hedge. I put some in about 6 years ago and the termites made short work of them. I use RR ties for corner posts, that or cedar that I have a profusion of.

 

[Kingfisher]

Look at the Kenco fencing website. They explain difference in wood post better than i can.

 

[fenceman]

Cut the top at an angle or point so they will shed water. Dome your concrete pier a couple inches above grade to do the same. Put gravel in bottom of hole under post.

 

[Ebenezer]

Cut the top at an angle or point so they will shed water. Dome your concrete pier a couple inches above grade to do the same. Put gravel in bottom of hole under post.

Most posts rot at ground line due to wet/dry and higher levels of fungi and bacteria. Angle on top has nothing to do with that expect makes birds "drop" seeds on one side only. Concrete will not help with rot but stability. Rock mix like crusher run or macadam for packing will drain well, have less organics to react or carry populations of fungi and bacteria. The strength of any HT fence is the braces so don't skimp there on posts or depth. Easiest I have done is 4-5" post ever 100' or on high and low points and fiberglass ever 20+' in between. Look at treatment level on posts or ask. Old CCA or find an equivalent chart for newer treatments. 0.25 lbs/cu. ft. (like landscape timbers) will be gone quickly. Get 0.4 lbs/cu.ft CCA or equivalent as a minimum. Cedar will be too loose in a short while unless you scab off sapwood.

 

[JMJ Farms]

Cut the top at an angle or point so they will shed water. Dome your concrete pier a couple inches above grade to do the same. Put gravel in bottom of hole under post.

Good advice. I also took a 4' piece of 12" PVC. Ran (4) screws into the side about 2 inches from one end. Outside to inside. Poured a concrete bottom in it. Put wood post into PVC. Fill with burnt motor oil. Let it soak for a couple days. Then do another one. Don't know if you have time to do this. And my posts haven't been in the ground long enough for me to give you the results but I was trying to mimick creosote.

 

[JMJ Farms]

FWIW, I've torn down old docks that had posts that had been under water for 30+ years. They rotted at ground level(not water level). Under the mud they were in pristine condition. Oxygen mixed with moisture seems to be the culprit. ?

 

[M-5]

On big poles for corners I seen bull ( wet dry roof cement ) put on it to make a cap. I just pour used motor oil on mine

 

[jedstivers]

Use steel post. They aren't much higher than wood if you buy 20-24' sticks and cut them. This time of year you can use a loader to push them into the ground. 2 7/8" is what I using I think. I can measure tomorrow.

 

[Kingfisher]

Cut the top at an angle or point so they will shed water. Dome your concrete pier a couple inches above grade to do the same. Put gravel in bottom of hole under post.

Most posts rot at ground line due to wet/dry and higher levels of fungi and bacteria. Angle on top has nothing to do with that expect makes birds "drop" seeds on one side only. Concrete will not help with rot but stability. Rock mix like crusher run or macadam for packing will drain well, have less organics to react or carry populations of fungi and bacteria. The strength of any HT fence is the braces so don't skimp there on posts or depth. Easiest I have done is 4-5" post ever 100' or on high and low points and fiberglass ever 20+' in between. Look at treatment level on posts or ask. Old CCA or find an equivalent chart for newer treatments. 0.25 lbs/cu. ft. (like landscape timbers) will be gone quickly. Get 0.4 lbs/cu.ft CCA or equivalent as a minimum. Cedar will be too loose in a short while unless you scab off sapwood.

Where do you live?

 

[HDRider]

Use steel post. They aren't much higher than wood if you buy 20-24' sticks and cut them. This time of year you can use a loader to push them into the ground. 2 7/8" is what I using I think. I can measure tomorrow.

That is what my neighbor has been doing. I talked to him yesterday about it.

Finding the pipe is kind of tough.

 

[ddd75]

southern yellow pine pressure treated in a tank.

a lot of posts are just 'sprayed'. you can tell the posts that are treated to the core by

1. lifting them up.. do they weigh like 40 lbs a post+ ?? NO? they are junk!

2. cut the top of one.. is it treated to the core?


i wouldn't put 4" posts.. i use nothing but 5-6". not that much more money.. 10x as strong o fa post.

 

[fenceman]

Use steel post. They aren't much higher than wood if you buy 20-24' sticks and cut them. This time of year you can use a loader to push them into the ground. 2 7/8" is what I using I think. I can measure tomorrow.

Beat advice you've got. I grew weary of arguing wood verses steel so I just try to help where I can. Maybe y'all need to get together and come on down well fix y'all up on pipe.

Cut the top at an angle or point so they will shed water. Dome your concrete pier a couple inches above grade to do the same. Put gravel in bottom of hole under post.

Most posts rot at ground line due to wet/dry and higher levels of fungi and bacteria. Angle on top has nothing to do with that expect makes birds "drop" seeds on one side only. Concrete will not help with rot but stability. Rock mix like crusher run or macadam for packing will drain well, have less organics to react or carry populations of fungi and bacteria. The strength of any HT fence is the braces so don't skimp there on posts or depth. Easiest I have done is 4-5" post ever 100' or on high and low points and fiberglass ever 20+' in between. Look at treatment level on posts or ask. Old CCA or find an equivalent chart for newer treatments. 0.25 lbs/cu. ft. (like landscape timbers) will be gone quickly. Get 0.4 lbs/cu.ft CCA or equivalent as a minimum. Cedar will be too loose in a short while unless you scab off sapwood.

Most hay rots at ground level. You ever seen the difference in a tight round and square bales stored outside. ?
I've seen post with 18" hollows down from top . you cut the top of a post square all it takes is a tiny deppression and water puddles on top.
Every bit of that water gets soaked into post

 

[jedstivers]

Use steel post. They aren't much higher than wood if you buy 20-24' sticks and cut them. This time of year you can use a loader to push them into the ground. 2 7/8" is what I using I think. I can measure tomorrow.

That is what my neighbor has been doing. I talked to him yesterday about it.

Finding the pipe is kind of tough.

I buy mine in west plains.
There's also JMS metal in Jonesboro, they will deliver to you but that are going to be a little higher than where I buy.
We always get a trailer load though so it's worth the trip.

 

[Ebenezer]

FWIW, I've torn down old docks that had posts that had been under water for 30+ years. They rotted at ground level(not water level). Under the mud they were in pristine condition. Oxygen mixed with moisture seems to be the culprit. ?

Commercial dock pilings are 0.8 lbs CCA per cu. ft or higher.

If you go that the steel post route, set the steel posts about 2" away from the lineup wire or string and pull the HT wire over to the insulator to pin it. When the deer knock the wire loose, there is less chance of a dead short. That's why I use wood and fiberglass posts now.

Where do you live?

South Carolina. Never had a post rot off at the top and if it is a commercially treated post, the cutting of an angle actually reduces the life of the treatment.

 

[fenceman]

On big poles for corners I seen bull ( wet dry roof cement ) put on it to make a cap. I just pour used motor oil on mine

I've seen that as well. It's also fairly common to.see caps made from sheet metal or tin nailed to the tops . Pretty sure I got some pics somewhere. Any thing to help keep moisture from hanging around including oil will increase post life.
If you must use wood

 

[fenceman]

 

[M.Magis]

I have a lot of old posts still around that look just like that pic. There are still a handful of corner posts from the previous landowner, 50+ years ago, and every one of them have a sheet metal "cap" on them.

 

[fenceman]

So you've seen post rot off at the top to.
Probably wouldn't have lasted near as long without the cap