What size Steel post.....

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JSteim

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What size steel pipe post to use as gate posts on 10' to 16' 2" tube gates?
 
Ours are all hung on 4 inch posts. I've noticed that the 16 foot gates tend to sag within the framework of the gate, having nothing to do with the diameter of the post.
 
dun":odojm6mv said:
Ours are all hung on 4 inch posts. I've noticed that the 16 foot gates tend to sag within the framework of the gate, having nothing to do with the diameter of the post.


I have noticed that as well with the 8" wood posts on other parts of our fence. I am thinking of trying 3 hinges instead of two to see if that helps.
The gates I am asking about will be on a pen of continuous fence panels. The gate post will not have a traditional H brace hence the question on pipe post diameter.
 
JSteim":2qmtoggl said:
dun":2qmtoggl said:
Ours are all hung on 4 inch posts. I've noticed that the 16 foot gates tend to sag within the framework of the gate, having nothing to do with the diameter of the post.


I have noticed that as well with the 8" wood posts on other parts of our fence. I am thinking of trying 3 hinges instead of two to see if that helps.
The gates I am asking about will be on a pen of continuous fence panels. The gate post will not have a traditional H brace hence the question on pipe post diameter.
You can put a dozen hinges on it, the gate will still sag over time. What I have done in the past (very occasionally) is run a guy wire from the top of the post about 5 feet above the gate to the bottom at the far end. It's helped but I ended up having to put in a turnbuckle to make up for the stretch in even 1/4 in steel cable.
One thing that will help with the sag is to put block at the far end so the gate rests on it when it.
 
Kingfisher -
The 12' gates are on 50x30 pens. The 16' gate is on an 85x100 pen. Thought is those should be low pressure areas.
For the sorting alley and sweep I have 10' Priefert bow gates which are pretty heavy.

Dun -
The block under the end of the gate would work. Also maybe one of those wheels that bolts onto the end.
It looks to me like a lot of the sag is the top hinge turning some when the gate gets to 90 degree perpendicular to the post allowing the gate to droop. Does not seem any way to tighten the hinge bolt enough to stop this. My thought was perhaps a third hinge pointed up might support the gate enough that the top hinge would not have any twist. Cheap and fast enough to try in any event.
 
JSteim":30rlwgjk said:
Kingfisher -
The 12' gates are on 50x30 pens. The 16' gate is on an 85x100 pen. Thought is those should be low pressure areas.
For the sorting alley and sweep I have 10' Priefert bow gates which are pretty heavy.

Dun -
The block under the end of the gate would work. Also maybe one of those wheels that bolts onto the end.
It looks to me like a lot of the sag is the top hinge turning some when the gate gets to 90 degree perpendicular to the post allowing the gate to droop. Does not seem any way to tighten the hinge bolt enough to stop this. My thought was perhaps a third hinge pointed up might support the gate enough that the top hinge would not have any twist. Cheap and fast enough to try in any event.
Most of my hinges are welded to the post so they don't turn. The few that aren't; are in holes cut through the posts and tack welded.
 
JSteim":24dkv166 said:
Kingfisher -
The 12' gates are on 50x30 pens. The 16' gate is on an 85x100 pen. Thought is those should be low pressure areas.
For the sorting alley and sweep I have 10' Priefert bow gates which are pretty heavy.

Dun -
The block under the end of the gate would work. Also maybe one of those wheels that bolts onto the end.
It looks to me like a lot of the sag is the top hinge turning some when the gate gets to 90 degree perpendicular to the post allowing the gate to droop. Does not seem any way to tighten the hinge bolt enough to stop this. My thought was perhaps a third hinge pointed up might support the gate enough that the top hinge would not have any twist. Cheap and fast enough to try in any event.

Tack weld the hinge strap to the gate frame. If you don't have a welder ,use a self taping screw. All 16 foot store bought gates tend to sag within their own frame. If you can't live with it, Run a steel cable. High tensil electric fence wire will work. Go from top corner at hinge side to bottom corner at latch side. Put a turn buckle on one end.
Wheels on dirt are a real pain in the azz.
 
Not a very good photo, but you can see turnbuckle on top left .gate is also hung slightly off square to compensate for slope in ground.


 
A 16' Priefert Bull Gate won't sag. I've got five of the 16's and some shorter ones. The 16 footers cost $200. I wouldn't get any other kind.
 
We use 2 7/8" oil field pipe for years. Several H braces my dad built 25+yrs ago, just replaced post and wire, kept the H braces he built. Still solid. Plant them deep, concrete gate post and plenty of bracing.
As for gates, if you have welder, I wouldn't use the store bought gates like priefert. I'm not sure about your area but here in OK we have several steel suppliers that make heavy gates. They are much heavier than any priefert gate I have seen. Mine all come with collar/plate hinges.
 
16 ft Priefert Bull Gates weigh 127 lbs. Those 10 ft bow gates he's talking about weigh 199 lbs. I've got two of those. Sure, you could weld one up heavier than that but I don't see why you'd need to. Powder coated paint, I've had some of them probably 12-14 years and not a speck of rust on them and the paint's not even faded. No sag or dents in any of it. I did get a slight bend in the top rail of a 12 ft premier panel when a 1500 lb cow tried and failed to jump it. Priefert is top quality. Don't know of any oil fields within 500 miles of here. :lol2:
 
Priefert bull gates are a dam fine product for sure. I've probably hung thousands of em. The 16 footers will sag a inch or two. Their made out of 16 gauge steel. More than adequate for most work. In heavy traffic areas I like at least 12 gauge on the gates. Schedule 40 pipe is better if you got gate post that can handle it.

Where jstein is you can't go for walk without running into a pile of oilfield pipe.
 
I got that 127 lbs off the Priefert website. This one's a 2005 model and the sticker says 153 lbs. Maybe they lightened them up a little. I was right about the 199 lbs on the 10 ft bow gate.



Same gate as above- I hang mine using creosote posts and creosote board bracing -



That gate hasn't moved an inch since I set it in 2005 or '06.
 
fenceman":1i8d75d0 said:
Priefert bull gates are a dam fine product for sure. I've probably hung thousands of em. The 16 footers will sag a inch or two. Their made out of 16 gauge steel. More than adequate for most work. In heavy traffic areas I like at least 12 gauge on the gates. Schedule 40 pipe is better if you got gate post that can handle it.

Where jstein is you can't go for walk without running into a pile of oilfield pipe.
I'm sure that's a very good option for gates, etc. where all that pipe's readily available.
 
That's good looking work. :nod:
Do notice you have a block under it , that makes a huge difference.
ga.prime":duj010vp said:
I got that 127 lbs off the Priefert website. This one's a 2005 model and the sticker says 153 lbs. Maybe they lightened them up a little. I was right about the 199 lbs on the 10 ft bow gate.



Same gate as above- I hang mine using creosote posts and creosote board bracing -



That gate hasn't moved an inch since I set it in 2005 or '06.
 
Thanks, fenceman. I put that piece of wood under the end there in case some innocent soul climbed over the gate like I know I used to do when I was a young 'un. :D
 

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