Vermeer 5400 twins arms

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ncboy34

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Bought a Vermeer 5400 Rebel a couple months ago and had it out yesterday getting everything greased up and ready to go for hay season. Noticed that the twine arms when being moved to the center are hitting the pickup teeth and not going all the way to the center. Is this normal for this baler. What adjustments need to be made? I've talked to people who spoke pretty highly of Vermeer but I don't know much about them.
 

Caustic Burno

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ncboy34":7b08dkgq said:
Bought a Vermeer 5400 Rebel a couple months ago and had it out yesterday getting everything greased up and ready to go for hay season. Noticed that the twine arms when being moved to the center are hitting the pickup teeth and not going all the way to the center. Is this normal for this baler. What adjustments need to be made? I've talked to people who spoke pretty highly of Vermeer but I don't know much about them.
Yes the pick up teeth feed the string just like the hay.
Biggest complaint against my Vermeer was cutting the string that baler could make a preacher cuss.
Krone made the best bale if you could keep the chains and bearings working.
Heston was the most trouble free followed by the Vermeer.
Almost forgot invest in an IR temperature gun can save you a lot bearing down time.
 

hurleyjd

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ncboy34":2isei32k said:
Bought a Vermeer 5400 Rebel a couple months ago and had it out yesterday getting everything greased up and ready to go for hay season. Noticed that the twine arms when being moved to the center are hitting the pickup teeth and not going all the way to the center. Is this normal for this baler. What adjustments need to be made? I've talked to people who spoke pretty highly of Vermeer but I don't know much about them.


Lower the hay pickup and see if that takes care of the problem. You might call vermeer and they will send you a manual.
 

hurleyjd

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I had a 5400 baler. Best that I can remember the arms go to the center and maybe cross a little and return to home they do not switch sides and go all the way.
 

cfpinz

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With the pickup lowered, they should not hit the teeth when fully extended. You may have some contact partially extended.

Do yourself a favor and pull the twine assembly from the baler (really easy to do), take it apart at the hinge points and cover everything in Neversieze. The twine arms kept getting lazy on my old 504L to the point they wouldn't move one day, those joints had enough corrosion built up in them that it was slowing down the linear actuator and eventually stopped it. There's plastic bushings in each one, just be careful not to tear them up taking them apart.

If you replace the razor blades before each cutting it'll eliminate 99% of your twine troubles - standard blades like the ones used in carpet knives, you can buy them at the hardware store. Buy American made blades, they'll last longer and cut better. Also knock the chaff off of the blade pivots periodically.

Vermeer will send you a full set of manuals for the baler for free if you call and give them the serial number for registration purposes. Best equipment manufacturing company I've ever dealt with.
 

M-5

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cfpinz":2spsqpu4 said:
With the pickup lowered, they should not hit the teeth when fully extended. You may have some contact partially extended.

Do yourself a favor and pull the twine assembly from the baler (really easy to do), take it apart at the hinge points and cover everything in Neversieze. The twine arms kept getting lazy on my old 504L to the point they wouldn't move one day, those joints had enough corrosion built up in them that it was slowing down the linear actuator and eventually stopped it. There's plastic bushings in each one, just be careful not to tear them up taking them apart.

If you replace the razor blades before each cutting it'll eliminate 99% of your twine troubles - standard blades like the ones used in carpet knives, you can buy them at the hardware store. Buy American made blades, they'll last longer and cut better. Also knock the chaff off of the blade pivots periodically.

Vermeer will send you a full set of manuals for the baler for free if you call and give them the serial number for registration purposes. Best equipment manufacturing company I've ever dealt with.

while American blades are better than knockoffs The best are Sheffield blades. I sell a lot of hook and utility and they are the only ones that will hold up to cutting shingles and roofing material.
 

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