Trees in the fence

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ILMOcowcalf

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Due to an elderly previous owner and a lazy tenant I have a lot of cedar trees and thorn trees growing up in fence lines. Fences are all 4&5 barb and cattle tight but will soon be junk if I don't remove the trees.

What I want to do is walk along with a branch lopper or battery powered saw and cut off the limbs growing through the fence then come back with the shear to cut and remove the tree with minimal fence damage, I hope.

What would be the best tool for this job? Must have some reach to it and light weight. Prefur not to have a chain that must be maintained and sharped, and carry fuel and oil. I can carry my Honda generator on the four wheeler with the battery charger plugged in to charge batteries.

Whats your experiance with such a job, and your choice of tools?

TIA, and Merry Chrismas to all!
 
Pole saw would be good. If you don't want the chain you could use a manual one. Or a battery powered chain saw. But then again it has a chain. Battery powered reciprocating saw? Or if your gonna have the generator a corded reciprocating saw. I know you said you don't prefer a chained tool but a pole saw is likely gonna be the best option. Will go a pretty good while on one sharpening.
 
Cut the bigger stuff and spray the cut stumps with remedy and diesel. Basal the small stuff. BTDT

Farmgirl
 
I know you said you didn't want to mess with gas/oil but a good weedeater with a brush blade on it will reach up under the bottom wire and whack the smaller stuff off less than 1" above ground level. Then follow the cut stump treatment mentioned above. (I never had any luck with Remedy and diesel as a basal spray on cedar)
You'll get really tired of using those loppers and recip saw leaning down or kneeling down on the ground.
 
I have rosehips and stuff growing in my fences.. I would like to get a hedge trimmer on a pole with a flex head on it.. similar to a weed wacker, but handles heavier stuff and since I have irrigation lines right there, a spinning blade is really dangerous for it, especially since the smaller stuff and you have to fight with it

I'm thinking something like this, but for me I'd go with gas powered every time
https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools ... LE-71.aspx
 
Not what you want to do but you might reconsider.

I have the Remington 120v pole saw which I bought several years ago and this Black Friday bought a gas powered Poulan pole saw from TSC. Compared to the Remington.... there is no comparison. It's Poulan hands down. Saw is light, super sharp, cuts fast, very little bounce like the Remington, and clean. Very easy to start and idles great when you set it down for a few minutes, great on gas and oil and the tanks are large meaning that you aren't constantly fiddling with both. The blade oiler doesn't require manual pumping like the Remington. It self oils like a regular CS.

Max cut is 12' using your height as part of that dimension, or remove sections for a saw length of about 6' with good balance if you move the handle all the way forward. It will cut vertical or horizontal with a quick change of the snap-in rod extensions (from 0 to 90) eliminating the awkwardness of a regular chain saw (having to turn it sideways to cut horizontal, and will reach those hard to get at branches through the fence or underbrush. It was on sale for $150 on Friday only, but I was there Wednesday and needed it and paid the extra 50 bucks for the normal price which is a great buy at 200 bucks. Not sorry for spending the extra.

TSC guarantees satisfaction so try it and if you don't like it, take it back......I doubt that will happen. Grin. If you do decide to get it, use premium fuel and when the instructions says 5 pumps of the bulb, for the first time, or with a dry tank, pump it till you see fuel in the bulb then do the 5 pumps. On my new saw, it took a lot more that 5 to get fuel visible. If you set it down for a few minutes off, it will fast start with no priming, just hold the throttle lever in full on and pull the rope.
 
callmefence":2wcma8jd said:
https://youtu.be/io47Cj9sAZo

https://youtu.be/afOIcJoxQTY

You can use the shear with with enough precision to work between a four Barb. If you're patient. Follow up with tordon not remedy....and a bag of gripples.
I was cutting cedars a few days back and thought there should be another t post some where along here then ???? nope not no more a cedar had grown around it and it got sheared off.
the shear does work good if wire is grown into the tree I just cut it above and below then let be , it will rot of someday.
 
No need to treat cedar stumps. If they are small enough they won't tear up the fence when they fall, I use a Harleman saw on a skid loader. The ones right next to the post I do manually with a chainsaw.
The large ones I will cut off above the fence, then come back and cut them off at the ground. The Harleman will throw the tops 20-30 feet, peice if cake.
Not much help to the poster, but I thought I would comment on the stumps. Cedar will not come back.
 
T & B farms":3or61s8h said:
No need to treat cedar stumps. If they are small enough they won't tear up the fence when they fall, I use a Harleman saw on a skid loader. The ones right next to the post I do manually with a chainsaw.
The large ones I will cut off above the fence, then come back and cut them off at the ground. The Harleman will throw the tops 20-30 feet, peice if cake.
Not much help to the poster, but I thought I would comment on the stumps. Cedar will not come back.
will not come back as long as you cut below the last branch or trim all branches off.
 

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