tire water trough

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M-5

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After reading about Jed's tire waterer I put plans in motion today . there have been 2 skidder tires in the edge of our woods at work for last 15 yrs. I pulled one out today and brought it home. I bet it weighs 900 to 1000# . i plan to make it portable so I will not be using concrete. I will cut a disc out of Marine Plywood or 1/4 alum plate. Wood will be easier to attach and seal. The lip I will be attaching to is 3" thick so wood grip screws will work to attach the 29" disc with buytl caulk sandwiched. Once attached I will pour a thin layer of elastomeric coating and let it dry. Then I will only need a couple gallons of elastomeric (cool seal) to fill the lip area up. The first one I will not plumb thru bottom cause I'm gonna use a Hudson valve on it. With it not having concrete I can move it if I want too. By coating both sides of plywood it will likely last my lifetime.
 
greybeard":ptv9ub5h said:
log skidder-they are wide and tall and will make a great water trough. Hard to find one around here unless it is split out--these po boys run em till there is just nothing left.
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There's a company now making plastic 'cones' that set on the ground and you put the tire over it - the bead of the tire, and the weight of the tire and water seals against the cone apparently. I've thought of trying to pour a concrete one, it would give some weight, but still allows both pieces to be moved independently. Just not sure I could get it as smooth as a plastic one would be, to seal.

You can see the plastic one here.. Company is OTR recycling out of Manitoba.

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Grand pa use to fix a plywood plug in them old cast iron bath tubs and it would last a long time.
I personally would not make them portable I would just set one where I needed them. around here they are free and plenty full, ask a shop for some a couple years ago they told me ''bring your trailer and I'll load you a hundred'' free they just need to get rid of them.

they also make good raised gardens
 
Kenny , I have an advantage because in the Roofing business we seal holes in roofs all the time after plumbing pipes or anchors are set. Pourable dealer self levels and will bond to the walls . I will take pics as I make progress. These tires have steel in the sidewall so it will be a challage to cut.
 
greybeard":3re8seow said:
M-5":3re8seow said:
I like OTR's motto.
Me too.
Who wouldn't like a waterer that lasts longer than they will be alive?

I have an old propane tank (300 gal) that was split 40 yrs ago and I have had to replace the legs on it once, When cleaning it this yr the flakes of rust seem to be getting bigger so I don't know how many more yrs it will last. Im seriously considering coating it with waterproofing after I kill the rust . One product I sell is applicable for coating pools so I might be able to prolong its use another 40 yrs.
 
M5--That's still lots better than a 350 gal Behlen Country galv tank I bought 4 yrs ago. Washed it out last week and there's a pinhole rusted in the bottom already. I guess I'll braze it up and maybe get another year out of it before letting my wife use it for a flower container.
 
M-5":2upgd8tk said:
These tires have steel in the sidewall so it will be a challage to cut.
the ones I have cut did not have steel in the side walls. have cut several for water troughs, garden bed, and to noodle out of. I use a chain saw and have someone squirting oil on cut as I am cutting. Other than being nasty while cutting , it gets all over you, they cut fast and easy. lots of oil and pull apart as cutting so not to pinch saw.
 
Use a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. Lay it on its side, don't hold the sidewall as your cutting, let it fall into the tire. I can have one cut in a few min. I'm sure a skidded tire is tougher though.
 
kenny thomas":3tx4bc9t said:
Bryant, tell us how you cut them for noodling.
split them put a hole and bolt on a top. to split them I tied one side to tree and the other to pick up , white standing, up and kept it pulled apart while cutting. need two people. tractor tire works better for noodling not as tall.
my biggest problem with cutting them was saw pinching but the ones I cut were not skidder tires and did not have steel belting, even tried sawzall but thought it was not as fast.
 
jedstivers":1msfum1q said:
Use a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. Lay it on its side, don't hold the sidewall as your cutting, let it fall into the tire. I can have one cut in a few min. I'm sure a skidded tire is tougher though.

that's what I have used on tractor tires but when I drilled my pilot hole I was like DAM , this aint gonna be easy , I tried 3 different types of blades and only got about 6 " cut . I will have to go back and use the grinder to clean up the steel strands after I get it cut out with the chain saw. I was tempted to use a hand operated band saw but chain saw chains are much cheaper
 
Have read to suspend tire slightly, sidewall up with FEL or something, then sawzall will cut slick and easy, as the weight helps pull it apart.

Was supposed to have a few tires coming last spring - still haven't shown up.
 
2colbpe.jpg



this is the inside of our tanks have 8 in use with plans for at least 2 more soon. i will add as soon as we put cement in we run 6 or so inches of water on top of it. not had one leak in the 4 years we have been doing these. there all on gravity pond water. we drain the ones not in use during winter. did change the type of valves to gallager. another thing we do is put a brass coupling in the cement so if the pvc does get broke off u can clean out threads and just redo pvc....had it happen once and do not know how it happend
 
I WILL check the next tire I get for steel in the side wall . I will take a pic of it this weekend. It took 2 hrs with a chainsaw, 4.5" cut off wheel and 2 reciprocating saws to get the sidewall cut off. I have cut tractor tire sidewalls with a sharp knife .. The strands we about 3/4" apart running from rim bead to the tread all the way around the tire .
 
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