Pressure regulators on water lines

Help Support CattleToday:

Ky hills

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2016
Messages
6,564
Reaction score
7,379
Location
Clark County, KY
Just a reminder for folks with automatic waterers that are supplied by city water, keep a close watch on them leaks can be costly. Several years ago we put one in at the bottom of a hill and the down hill slope combined with the water pressure kept it overflowing until we put a regulator in it. Then a few years ago we had another put in on another field at the top of a hill just little ways from the meter. It was fine until a while back when I guess due to more houses being built on our road they upped the pressure. It blew out an outside spigot on our house and also the new waterer. My advice would be if anyone is putting in a waterer to include a regulator, and maybe even put one on the lines feeding into your house or barns as well just for a precaution.
 
Municipal water lines have surges and water hammer. They will say "no we don't". It's just a part of the whole so yes they do. We had to install 2 pressure regulators back to back on a supply line just off of the meter base to keep from popping pipes and fittings. One would not do it. Now, all is fine. Before that $800+ for one leak. No thank you.
 
Ebenezer said:
Municipal water lines have surges and water hammer. They will say "no we don't". It's just a part of the whole so yes they do. We had to install 2 pressure regulators back to back on a supply line just off of the meter base to keep from popping pipes and fittings. One would not do it. Now, all is fine. Before that $800+ for one leak. No thank you.

This time we caught the leak fairly quick and so hoping it won't be much over $200 for this months bill. Have had one years ago of over $2000 and one around $400 so it's one of those dreaded things. Of course the company said that there isn't a pressure issue and reluctantly that they would put in an order to check it. We are going to have regulators put at both meters cause I know the company won't nor will they ever admit that there was a problem.
 
You mentioned a hill. The equation for water pressure change due to an elevation change is 0.43 psi per foot of elevation change. If you take a water line 50 feet down a hill, you will have 21.5 psi more pressure at the bottom of the hill than at the top. If you take a water line 50 feet up a hill, you will have 21.5 psi less pressure at the top that at the bottom. That is with no flow. With flow the pressure drop due to friction comes into play as well. You will have higher pressure when the valve at the end closes since there is no pressure drop due to flow. Putting the pressure regulator at the end point of use then will give you constant pressure at the use point whereas putting it upstream will give variable pressure at the end point as the flow rate changes.

My brother has a 2" water service to chicken houses. Water company put in a connection type that is push-in with an o-ring that forms the seal and the buried pvc pipe is supposed to be held in the joint just by having the pipe buried to keep it from sliding. All was good for several years until the pipe shifted in the ground in the winter one night and the pipe end moved out of the o-ring. A 2" pipe will leak a lot of water on the main line. The water was spraying onto the fence and the road -freezing on the road and making icicles on the fence. It was a winter wonderland. A few hundred thousand gallons. Good news is that our water company will adjust the bill if you have a major leak. There is a limit of one adjustment per year or maybe 5 years. I don't remember.

Our water company keeps raising the line pressure since the old lines are undersized and they need to push more water to more customers. The pressure setting on your water heater relief valve is 150 psi. Water pressure in the main line creeps up during the night when flow rates are lower. Your water pressure regulator will shut off bubble tight when new to control the pressure when you are not using any water. But over time, there will be wear on the sealing surface and your regulator will seep a little causing the pressure in your house to rise to the pressure in the main line at night. Then your water heater relief valve will start dribbling if the main line is above 150 psi. A solution is to install two pressure regulators in series. Set the first (upstream) one to the pressure you want. Set the second one to a higher pressure. The second one will always be wide open so the seats do not wear. Since it is set to a higher pressure than the first one, it will be wide open trying to get the pressure up, but can't since the first one is limiting the pressure. When the first one wears out and start leaking (and pressure on your side starts rising), the second one with good seals will then close down to regulate pressure. If you put a pressure gauge between the two, you can tell that the first one is leaking and replace it.
 

Latest posts

Top