Thoughts on the design of permanent pasture fence

Help Support CattleToday:

tdarden3k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
165
Reaction score
0
I will soon be fencing 40 acres of pasture and I would like to incorporate 2 strands of electric wire in with 3 or 4 strands of barbed wire using both wood (cedar and cross ties ) and T- posts ....I know nothing about the design of electric fences.

Also I was wondering if an electric fence went down, would the animals know it ....without touching it ?


Also I can get my hands on a lot barbless 12.5 gauge 2 strand wire reasonably. Any one ever used this stuff for electric fencing.
 
First an electric fence as you know is a mental barrier while barbed wire is used as a physical barrier. 12.5.gauge smooth wire can be used for both depending on how a fence is constructed.

What you are talking about, using 3 or 4 strands of Barbed wire and 2 strands of electric, will work but there are a lot cheaper and faster ways to put fence up than what you describe that will do just as good a job keeping animals in. If expense and time are not concerns for you then I would go ahead and do what you describe. The reason high tinsel electric fence is so popular now is that it is by far the cheapest and fastest way to build fence.

As far as electric fence goes just remember the thicker the wire the less resistance or voltage drop you will have over long distances. I see a lot of people using really thin wire over long distances get frustrated because their animals don't respect the fence. I think people would be so much better off to build one type or other fence and do it right than do a poor to fair job and try to incorporate both types of fence.

With regard to using two strand 12.5 ga. smooth wire for either a physical or mental barrier fence. It may be strong enough for a physical barrier with enough strands being tensioned correctly, you would have to test it and see. As far as being used for electric, the 12.5 ga. would work fine to carry current and it would not have to be under as much tension so that part would be OK. My only concern would be if you can get the various insulators you will need that would let two strands of 12'5 ga. wire slip through so that you can tension the wire when needed and add springs to keep it under tension.

If it were me I would buy a large charger (Stafix R20 or similar) with plenty of ground rods (8 minimum) , put in a lightning arrester and surge protection and a knife switch so I could disconnect the fence during thunder showers. I would run 12.5 ga. high tinsel wire and springs. Put in floating corner braces and braced gate posts with spring gates. On strait runs I would use rebar and insulators every 25 feet and run three strands of wire. If there is a cheaper faster fence to put up I have not found it and nothing will go through it. Hope this helps
 
Thanks Richardin52.
It is obvious that I have to do some more education before I begin construction. I know barbed wire but have never used or considered electric wire as a permanent outer perimeter wire.
 
I run strictly stocker calves. In putting together groups you see all kinds, some haven't been weaned
and are still looking for mama, and most have never been around electric fences. I have had very
good luck with 2 strands of electric and 3 strands of barbwire. I want calves purchased each week
to stay seperate in their own trap and this seems to work.
 
I have tended to many miles of electrified barb wire. it will work fine as your hot wire but once it is electrified it will rust quicker than any of the other strands of wire. I do not know the physics behind this but can attest that this is the case in my part of the world.
 
Electrified barb-wire is an accident waiting to happen. It can and will kill you, or someone else if you can't get off of it.
 
If your perimeter is close to a highway, woven wire will give you more piece of mind.
 
Banjo":390st80c said:
If your perimeter is close to a highway, woven wire will give you more piece of mind.
There are local laws to consider. As I understand it, Ohio law states that any line fence, including any fence along a road, must be woven wire.
 
I'd take 7 strand barbwire over woven wire. It doesn't sag, its easy to fix when a car runs through it or a tree falls on it. Im not a fan of having an electric wire mixed in with barb wire, between the deer and dogs going through it, its easy to get wrapped up and short out.
 
Woven wire is good but is very pricey. I've kept plenty of animals contained over the years with 5 strands of high tensile and it costs a whole lot less than woven wire, its also easier to put up, easier to maintain, easier to change, etc.

According to the Ohio code 971 on fences other fence construction is ok as long as you have taken the proper steps and getting permission from the neighbors....

Ohio Code 971.01 Fences":3o9weufr said:
Preferred partition fence" means a partition fence that is a woven wire fence, either standard or high tensile, with one or two strands of barbed wire located not less than forty-eight inches from the ground or a nonelectric high tensile fence of at least seven strands and that is constructed in accordance with the United States natural resources conservation service conservation practice standard for fences, code 382. "Preferred partition fence" includes a barbed wire, electric, or live fence, provided that the owners of adjoining properties agree, in writing, to allow such fences.
 
tripleBfarms":2dyhmbte said:
I'd take 7 strand barbwire over woven wire. It doesn't sag, its easy to fix when a car runs through it or a tree falls on it. Im not a fan of having an electric wire mixed in with barb wire, between the deer and dogs going through it, its easy to get wrapped up and short out.

7 strand barbed wire has to cost a fortune. Unfortunately deer are like jack rabbits only way more plentiful.
 
Majority of my 110 acres of pasture is fenced - perimeter and division fences - with two strands of electrified 12.5ga HT wire, at 18" and 30" - and has been for 20 years. Bull pasture is 4 strands.
No road frontage; if I had some, I *might* do something a little more substantial. Maybe not.
Rarely, in the past 20 years, have I had any animals outside the fence, even if it's been off for days/weeks - like when lightning ran in on the energizer, and I didn't realize it.

I grew up with barbed wire fences, but would NEVER go back to it.
HT goes up fast, is inexpensive relative to woven or barbed, easy to maintain, and with a properly-grounded energizer, very effective.
End/corner posts/assemblies very critical, but on long, flat, straight stretches, you only need a t-post every 100 ft or so.
 
tdarden3k":cbhfb837 said:
tripleBfarms":cbhfb837 said:
I'd take 7 strand barbwire over woven wire. It doesn't sag, its easy to fix when a car runs through it or a tree falls on it. Im not a fan of having an electric wire mixed in with barb wire, between the deer and dogs going through it, its easy to get wrapped up and short out.

7 strand barbed wire has to cost a fortune. Unfortunately deer are like jack rabbits only way more plentiful.


I've got 155 acres fenced. All of it is not 7 strand, some is still 5 with a hot wire. Every spring when the grass starts growing, and every winter when it stops growing, their heads go through a 5 strand fence. They just keep pushing, trying to get to the grass outside the fence (roadside ditch), and before long, pop, i get a phone call about calves being in the road. I've tried an electric wire about 2' high to stop that, and it works as long as you can keep it hot. Put up a couple of additional strands down low, and they cant get their head through it. No more checking, and riding out the electric fence looking for the short. I've been adding wire to the 5 stand fences for a couple of years. Just do a section every year, spread out the cost, but start with the sections by a road for sure.
 

Latest posts

Top