Stihl Chainsaw Question

[CUZ]

Fact - After you run the chainsaw a while the chain begins to get loose.

Stihl has what they call a Quick Chain Adjuster where you can tighten the chain without having to take the sprocket cover off and put it back on. Now to me this seems like a big help, but if the thing doesn't hold up and you have to get it replaced every so often, then that seems like one more thing to spend money on that I didn't have to. I can just keep taking the cover off and putting it on. The difference between the one with the QCA and the one without is $30.

Anyone have this "feature" on their chainsaw? If so, does it hold up? (The saleslady said "Oh yes, they hold up good.") I'm just cleaning up tree laps, cutting the occasional cedar for posts, and that kind of thing, if that info helps you answer the question.

Now for a second question - Why does the chain get loose?
Option A - The chain stretches a small amount
Option B - The elements of the chain itself wear and create play in the chain
Option C - The mechanism holding the chain slips
Option D - Something I haven't guessed yet AKA Other

Thanks for your input. I hope to get one or the other this week since those *%&#* thorn trees aren't doing a very good job of getting themselves out of the pastures.

Thanks again,
Cuz

 

[dun]

1 and 2. Why would you have to take the cover off to tighten the chain. A quarter to half a turn of the cover is all that should be required to loosen the chain enough to adjust it with the adjuster screw. With a new chain it ll\gets prety slack afterr the firs alf hour then agin after a nother hour or so. After tha every time you sharpen the chain, snug i up and you should n't ahve to adjust again for the life of the chain.

 

[FROGHOLLOWFARM]

The chain wears(and stretches initially),the bar wears and the sprocket wears,are all causes.I have had 2 018's with the quick adj on the side cover and do not care for them much,but they were used pretty heavy,in my opinion were not much faster than the standard adj,and seemed to need adj more often.just my opinion.This may be the older design than what you are talking about.

 

[Jogeephus]

I'm with Dun, I never take the cover off except to clean. I think the bar will slip back some when it gets under a stress or bind. Always just loosen the screws a half turn or so then adjust it with the adjustment screw then retighten.

 

[fit2btied]

I agree with both previous replies. The manual adjustment doesn't take much longer than the quick adjust and like dun said, there's no reason to remove the cover unless your saw is different than mine. When I bought mine, the dealer didn't recommend the quick adjust, said it was too new to know how it was going to hold up, it's plastic, and it wasn't hard to adjust anyway. He called it a city option for people who didn't really need a chain saw.

 

[backhoeboogie]

Before I had a stihl, I took lots of breaks to sharpen, fix, tighten chains etc. Once I got the stihl, I have to work much more. I just won't break down on me. The only break I get is when it runs out of gas.

 

[danl]

Option A - The chain stretches a small amount
Option B - The elements of the chain itself wear and create play in the chain
Option C - The mechanism holding the chain slips
Option D - Something I haven't guessed yet AKA Other

All of the above. Especially D Probably not C
The chain mostly stretches out when it is run too hot, caused by lack of chain oil or chain getting dull.
Also if you tend to overwork the saw by forcing it instead of letting it do the cutting.

 

[milesvb]

I bought a Stihl with Quick Tensioner about two months ago. I didn't want it but that's all they had in that size. A bigger saw with conventional adjustment was too heavy for what I needed it for. It's worked good so far cutting mesquite at ground level with a lot of dirt but I don't know how long the adjuster will last. It would be nice if I could retrofit it with a conventional sideplate if/when it does wear out.

 

[Earl Thigpen]

I've owned two Stihl chainsaws. One of them is twenty plus years old and still works just fine. I never take the cover off to adjust the chain. There are two nuts on the side of the case - loosen them and turn the chain adjusting screw until the chain gets tight enough. Retighten the two nuts and you're done.

The second Stihl had the quick chain adjuster but I never got to use it. Some SOB stole it out of my garage after only two small jobs. I hope he cuts his face off ......

 

[CUZ]

Thanks for the replies. You've convinced me to just go with the conventional. My last Stihl which I really liked was also stolen - some people are just the scum of the earth. The Homelite I've been using is just wore out - Pull cord is tempermental and won't rewind itself properly, it's aggravating to start, the thing doesn't want to run when it gets hot and now the gas tank has developed a leak. Thanks again.

Cuz

 

[Jogeephus]

Hey Cuz, when you get the new saw. Take the chain off and throw it away and buy you a loggers chain. Little more chance of a kickback but it will surely save your back.

 

[CUZ]

Hey Cuz, when you get the new saw. Take the chain off and throw it away and buy you a loggers chain. Little more chance of a kickback but it will surely save your back. - Jogeephus



Since I don't know, I'll ask. What is the advantage to using a logger's chain? Of course saving your back is a big advantage, I just don't understand how that works.

Cuz

 

[dun]

Hey Cuz, when you get the new saw. Take the chain off and throw it away and buy you a loggers chain. Little more chance of a kickback but it will surely save your back. - Jogeephus



Since I don't know, I'll ask. What is the advantage to using a logger's chain? Of course saving your back is a big advantage, I just don't understand how that works.

Cuz

All it is is a non-antikickback chain. First of all it has more cutters, second they're easier to sharpen and they will last longer because they can be sharpened more.

 

[Hasbeen]

Well folks, you've both taught me something and made me feel like an idiot. I have an old Stihl that was given to me and works fine except I had to replace the adjustment screw when it broke. It just never occurred to me to loosen the cover before I adjusted it.

Sometimes it's so nice to be anonymous.

 

[Horticattleman]

I have several pieces of equipment that are all Stihl and they have been good. BUT I have to say that I have had the worst luck with their saws! Bought a fandy dandy one a couple years back and it would never run right. Brought it in and the guy said the connecting rod or something was wrong. Well OF COURSE it was a few WEEKS out of warranty but the rep happened to be there that day and allowed me to pay $100.00 and get a new one. Well now that one won't run and the guy at the shop says somebody ran it on straight gas and ruined it. Now I'm stuck with nothing. I'm just having a hard time getting another Stihl.

 

[Hasbeen]

I have several pieces of equipment that are all Stihl and they have been good. BUT I have to say that I have had the worst luck with their saws! Bought a fandy dandy one a couple years back and it would never run right. Brought it in and the guy said the connecting rod or something was wrong. Well OF COURSE it was a few WEEKS out of warranty but the rep happened to be there that day and allowed me to pay $100.00 and get a new one. Well now that one won't run and the guy at the shop says somebody ran it on straight gas and ruined it. Now I'm stuck with nothing. I'm just having a hard time getting another Stihl.

Took mine to the shop when it quit running and was told someone had run straight gas in it and the cylinder wall where too scored to be repaired. A friend put a new fuel line on it and I'm still using it.

 

[Horticattleman]

Thats exactly the way he explained it to me. What kind of fuel line etc. Can you share some info?

 

[Hasbeen]

Thats exactly the way he explained it to me. What kind of fuel line etc. Can you share some info?

If I remember right it was just the fuel line that runs from the tank to the carb. Apparently over time the constant vibration causes them to kink or crack.

 

[Dave]

Actually a "loggers chain" has less cutters. It would be a full skip (every other tooth is missing) chisel bit chain. The full skip allows the chain to clear out the sawdust better than a full comp chain. Properly sharpened chisel bit chain will out cut round filed chain by a significant margin. The problem is that most people don't know to sharpen chisel bit chain. So they sell round filed chain to most people because they can put some sort of an edge on it. Also full skip chisel bit chain is more aggressive than most people are use to and they will certainly kick back easier. The importance of a sharp chain can not be over stated. Dull chains and poor working oilers are probably the two biggest reasons for a chain getting loose.

 

[dun]

Actually a "loggers chain" has less cutters. It would be a full skip (every other tooth is missing) chisel bit chain. The full skip allows the chain to clear out the sawdust better than a full comp chain. Properly sharpened chisel bit chain will out cut round filed chain by a significant margin. The problem is that most people don't know to sharpen chisel bit chain. So they sell round filed chain to most people because they can put some sort of an edge on it. Also full skip chisel bit chain is more aggressive than most people are use to and they will certainly kick back easier. The importance of a sharp chain can not be over stated. Dull chains and poor working oilers are probably the two biggest reasons for a chain getting loose.

Intersting all I thought there were were chisel chipper and those horrible anti-kcikback jobs. In WA all I used was chisel chains, around here they look at you as if you're nuts if you ask for a chisel. It's pretty much a chain is a chain except for the anit-etc chains