Rotary Cutter Blade Pan

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Some of you may recall that last year I got into some hidden High Tensil while brush hogging. It is finally time for me to tackle the repair job (torch just would not do it) It is a 10' Titan Dual Spindle cutter. I finally have it hoisted up and have the crown nuts removed. Can anyone tell me an easy way to get the Blade Pans off? They are proving much more difficult to get off than I imagined. After getting it up, it looks like I will also need to replace a seal on one of the gearboxes because of all of the oil I see underneath.
 
I'm guessing your talking about the stump jumper.

This is one of my favorite ways but there are tons of videos on YouTube with different methods.

Back in the day we use to heat it up and then stick a bar thru the deck. One guy holds the bar and the other beat it with a sledge hammer... both jobs sucked.

https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/stump-jumper-removal-press-68800

https://youtu.be/pX9PS7KYxAc
 
I was told Titan called them blade pans, they are not rounded like a stump jumper, they are flat discs and the underside in front of the blades has a long piece of angle iron that will guide across things if need be. I was really hoping not to have to get into fabrication but this looks like a good way to do it.
 
Be very careful and not let it fall on you, unless you have it on its back. Put extra blocks etc in case it falls to catch it. Wifes brother got in HT wire also recently and had to remove the pan/stump jumper. It is a hard job to get off, and hard to get back on as it is heavy. Since yours is double they may go back a certain way so pictures maybe needed to take before disassembly. Probably to get off a torch to heat it up, but then again to much heat will not be good on the seals.


https://youtu.be/uqOQP39Um5M
 
sstterry said:
Some of you may recall that last year I got into some hidden High Tensil while brush hogging. It is finally time for me to tackle the repair job (torch just would not do it) It is a 10' Titan Dual Spindle cutter. I finally have it hoisted up and have the crown nuts removed. Can anyone tell me an easy way to get the Blade Pans off? They are proving much more difficult to get off than I imagined. After getting it up, it looks like I will also need to replace a seal on one of the gearboxes because of all of the oil I see underneath.

Get you a decent piece of wood possible oak. Stick it in the hole that is there to remove the bolts. It will rest on the pan. Now hit it a couple of times with a large hammer. Rotate the pan about 180 degrees and rap it again with the hammer. it should come off. I like the wood because it will adsorb the hammer blow and not chip off any steel if using a steel rod. Ounce you have the blade carrier off and the seals replaced then take you front end loader and turn the mower over on its back and install the blade carrier.
 
Iits a PIA no matter how you do it. Be real careful not to get under it. Dont trust holding it up with a FIL.

I have a bat wing that is due for all new jumpers and blades. It's about $2K in parts alone. None of the local tractor/ equipment guys will touch a shredder or disk. The dealer said they would but basically said to bring my own lube for the labor charge... and that was a lady. :lol: pretty sure they were trying to discourage me from bringing it.
 
Brute 23 said:
Iits a PIA no matter how you do it. Be real careful not to get under it. Dont trust holding it up with a FIL.

I have a bat wing that is due for all new jumpers and blades. It's about $2K in parts alone. None of the local tractor/ equipment guys will touch a shredder or disk. The dealer said they would but basically said to bring my own lube for the labor charge... and that was a lady. :lol: pretty sure they were trying to discourage me from bringing it.

it's nice of them to tell you that beforehand!
 
Brute 23 said:
I'm guessing your talking about the stump jumper.

This is one of my favorite ways but there are tons of videos on YouTube with different methods.

Back in the day we use to heat it up and then stick a bar thru the deck. One guy holds the bar and the other beat it with a sledge hammer... both jobs sucked.

https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/stump-jumper-removal-press-68800

https://youtu.be/pX9PS7KYxAc

One of my new favourite ways to heat something is just to weld on it.. I needed to get the inside race of a bearing off for the conditioner rolls on my haybine, I put a gear puller on it, it wasn't budging, found some big heavy welding rod, turned up the heat really good on the welder and halfway putting a bead onto it, it popped off.. Reason I like it is because you apply the heat SOOO much faster and just to the outside, it's much more effective than applying the same amount of heat over a longer time since the inside shaft doesn't have time to get hot
 
Brute 23 said:
Iits a PIA no matter how you do it. Be real careful not to get under it. Dont trust holding it up with a FIL.

I have a bat wing that is due for all new jumpers and blades. It's about $2K in parts alone. None of the local tractor/ equipment guys will touch a shredder or disk. The dealer said they would but basically said to bring my own lube for the labor charge... and that was a lady. :lol: pretty sure they were trying to discourage me from bringing it.

I never work under an FEL. I knew a guy that got crushed. I picked it up with The FEL, but it is now on tall jack stands
 
I made a puller out of an old stump jumper, it's just the blade bar with the pan removed, basically 1 1/2" steel flat stock with three holes and a push bolt welded in the middle.

Once you remove the blades, it is secured through the blade bolt holes with 1" bolts. Hit the push bolt with an impact as far as it will go, if it doesn't let loose, whack the bolt with a sledge and stand back. Sometimes they fly a few feet.

I have tried beating on them and it just plain sucks. Those tapered splines take a lot of force to remove.
 
Had an incident with getting into HT smooth wire last year, the guy running it didn't stop, just kept going. The stuff acted like a lathe bit and cut the whole snout of the gearbox off, seal and all. Was able to get it welded and put a new seal in.
 

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