Looking at this year's hay crop choice

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Texasmark

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Going around in circles here. Decided to surf seed suppliers. Stumbled across this:

https://hancockseed.com/collections/sorghum-sudangrass-seed/products/xtra-graze-bmr-sudangrass

Of extreme importance and caught my eye right off was this attribute under "Product Information": Xtra Graze is a top product in the marketplace! A top-quality BMR with extreme resistance to sugarcane aphids."

"........extreme resistance to sugarcane aphids."

Since 2914, when they hit me here in N. Texas, If I run a Sorghum product, I have to get it off before 4th of July as that's when they hit me. Considering the cost per acre of this seed, really any seed these days, one cutting won't even cover installation costs, much less haying expenses and a little something for me. But if I could get 3 cuttings, like I could when I bought this farm 40 years ago, that might work.

Anybody planting BMR Sorghum-Sudans this year? What's your plan?
 
Added comment: On the BMR late maturing (note no seed heads or even "boots" in the pics.), 8-10' height, small stems the size of a #2 pencil, 2" wide BMR leaves, this is what they are talking about. This was "Gotcha Plus" I got from a seed supplier in Denton, Tx., date is in the picture. I didn't really plan on it getting this tall but we had a wet spring and I couldn't get on it any earlier. Tractor is a Branson 6530 and the crop is 8'. Mower is a popular 6' drum mower made in Turkey.


 
Texasmark said:
Going around in circles here. Decided to surf seed suppliers. Stumbled across this:

https://hancockseed.com/collections/sorghum-sudangrass-seed/products/xtra-graze-bmr-sudangrass

Of extreme importance and caught my eye right off was this attribute under "Product Information": Xtra Graze is a top product in the marketplace! A top-quality BMR with extreme resistance to sugarcane aphids."

"........extreme resistance to sugarcane aphids."

Since 2914, when they hit me here in N. Texas, If I run a Sorghum product, I have to get it off before 4th of July as that's when they hit me. Considering the cost per acre of this seed, really any seed these days, one cutting won't even cover installation costs, much less haying expenses and a little something for me. But if I could get 3 cuttings, like I could when I bought this farm 40 years ago, that might work.

Anybody planting BMR Sorghum-Sudans this year? What's your plan?

I sampled Turbo Sudan last year. I planted 5 aces. It has super aggressive growth. Not as aggressive of a grower as Piper. But leaves are much wider. Cattle cleaned it up. Over 100 65 pound bales per acre, 3 cuttings, planted May 1st. I planted 50 pounds per acre they recommended 15 lbs per acre.
 
Richnm said:
Texasmark said:
Going around in circles here. Decided to surf seed suppliers. Stumbled across this:

https://hancockseed.com/collections/sorghum-sudangrass-seed/products/xtra-graze-bmr-sudangrass

Of extreme importance and caught my eye right off was this attribute under "Product Information": Xtra Graze is a top product in the marketplace! A top-quality BMR with extreme resistance to sugarcane aphids."

"........extreme resistance to sugarcane aphids."

Since 2914, when they hit me here in N. Texas, If I run a Sorghum product, I have to get it off before 4th of July as that's when they hit me. Considering the cost per acre of this seed, really any seed these days, one cutting won't even cover installation costs, much less haying expenses and a little something for me. But if I could get 3 cuttings, like I could when I bought this farm 40 years ago, that might work.

Anybody planting BMR Sorghum-Sudans this year? What's your plan?

I sampled Turbo Sudan last year. I planted 5 aces. It has super aggressive growth. Not as aggressive of a grower as Piper. But leaves are much wider. Cattle cleaned it up. Over 100 65 pound bales per acre, 3 cuttings, planted May 1st. I planted 50 pounds per acre they recommended 15 lbs per acre.

50#/Ac is what was planted in the picture and is my normal SS planting rate. Great yield on your Turbo.
 
Moving right along. Anybody planted Alamo Switchgrass for hay? Warner Bros. Seed Co. in Lawton, Ok, has an ad on the www. That looks promising and noted that they said it was high in sugar.....maybe compete with SS for cattle's palate.....getting the cattle to clean up a bale rather than scattering and picking at it.
 
Some BMRs do not re grow. I tried another "Sweet Sudan" ( I forgot the brand ) one cutting, no regrowth.
 
Texasmark said:
Added comment: On the BMR late maturing (note no seed heads or even "boots" in the pics.), 8-10' height, small stems the size of a #2 pencil, 2" wide BMR leaves, this is what they are talking about. This was "Gotcha Plus" I got from a seed supplier in Denton, Tx., date is in the picture. I didn't really plan on it getting this tall but we had a wet spring and I couldn't get on it any earlier. Tractor is a Branson 6530 and the crop is 8'. Mower is a popular 6' drum mower made in Turkey.


How high were you cutting the forage sorghum with the drum mower? Did it regrow OK? I am about to go out now and cut some forage sorghum with a drum mower, I put some blocks and a new skid on it yesterday to raise it another 2" to try and get a 6" cut. It is the first cutting, I am trying to even it up as it germinated in 2 phases.

Ken
 
No doubt the higher the better. I had the 1" extension that could be added to to raise the disc higher. SFI in Caldwell, Tx. sold it to me and installed the spacer. You could do it but you need some lifting equipment and really a second person.

In cutting, with the spacer and normal action of the front bar laying the crop down before the blade could cut it, I had a 4" stubble, 3 inch without the spacer. That was enough for good comeback. Gotta have some sugar stored in the stem to feed the plant till it has enough leaf to feed itself.

What you are asking about was the one thing I liked about my JD 1209s and that was I had a hydraulic lift cylinder and could set my cutting height as desired...although I did have a few accidents, bumpy ground and cut was like an inch and regrowth was very sluggish but happened. Small consolation for having to put up with the rest of the thing.....all sickle bar related.
 
Texasmark said:
No doubt the higher the better. I had the 1" extension that could be added to to raise the disc higher. SFI in Caldwell, Tx. sold it to me and installed the spacer. You could do it but you need some lifting equipment and really a second person.

In cutting, with the spacer and normal action of the front bar laying the crop down before the blade could cut it, I had a 4" stubble, 3 inch without the spacer. That was enough for good comeback. Gotta have some sugar stored in the stem to feed the plant till it has enough leaf to feed itself.

What you are asking about was the one thing I liked about my JD 1209s and that was I had a hydraulic lift cylinder and could set my cutting height as desired...although I did have a few accidents, bumpy ground and cut was like an inch and regrowth was very sluggish but happened. Small consolation for having to put up with the rest of the thing.....all sickle bar related.
I have a UFO drum mower, NZ brand but looks similar to most. Well used when I got it but works well. I cut the sorghum today, the ground was a bit soft and powdery so the skids got into it a bit but overall not too bad. Here are a couple of photos of the modification. There was a bit more adjustment in it but I have found when you put it in the last holes it does not have much support and there is a lot of leverage on where connected hence the extension. I made it so I can quickly cut the welds with the grinder to remove it if I don't want it on but seemed to work OK. I put some leaf spring on the bottom and curved up a bit for wear.








This is Bounty Forage Sorghum, the seed distributor says that it needs a fully prepared seed bed which i did but with our dry conditions it fluffed the soil up and made it very soft. I normally just spray it out and drill the forage in, works well with millet but they said the forage sorghum was better in the dry conditions. We had zero moisture in the soil profile a few months ago but I hit it with my subsoiler, about 10-12" and got a couple of storms on it, one of 61mm (31/2") and planted after but a bit of delay getting seed and the surface dried out. I found where the tractor tires compressed the soil the seed went shallower and did not germinate initially but what did went well, seemed to find the moisture. More has germinated with subsequent rain so am hoping it will even up with this cutting.
Do you do a full preparation for forage sorghum? I would like to just spray and drill if I do it again or change back to millet. I don't think our light soil is suited to working up on a regular basis.

Ken
 
wbvs58 said:
Texasmark said:
No doubt the higher the better. I had the 1" extension that could be added to to raise the disc higher. SFI in Caldwell, Tx. sold it to me and installed the spacer. You could do it but you need some lifting equipment and really a second person.

In cutting, with the spacer and normal action of the front bar laying the crop down before the blade could cut it, I had a 4" stubble, 3 inch without the spacer. That was enough for good comeback. Gotta have some sugar stored in the stem to feed the plant till it has enough leaf to feed itself.

What you are asking about was the one thing I liked about my JD 1209s and that was I had a hydraulic lift cylinder and could set my cutting height as desired...although I did have a few accidents, bumpy ground and cut was like an inch and regrowth was very sluggish but happened. Small consolation for having to put up with the rest of the thing.....all sickle bar related.
I have a UFO drum mower, NZ brand but looks similar to most. Well used when I got it but works well. I cut the sorghum today, the ground was a bit soft and powdery so the skids got into it a bit but overall not too bad. Here are a couple of photos of the modification. There was a bit more adjustment in it but I have found when you put it in the last holes it does not have much support and there is a lot of leverage on where connected hence the extension. I made it so I can quickly cut the welds with the grinder to remove it if I don't want it on but seemed to work OK. I put some leaf spring on the bottom and curved up a bit for wear.








This is Bounty Forage Sorghum, the seed distributor says that it needs a fully prepared seed bed which i did but with our dry conditions it fluffed the soil up and made it very soft. I normally just spray it out and drill the forage in, works well with millet but they said the forage sorghum was better in the dry conditions. We had zero moisture in the soil profile a few months ago but I hit it with my subsoiler, about 10-12" and got a couple of storms on it, one of 61mm (31/2") and planted after but a bit of delay getting seed and the surface dried out. I found where the tractor tires compressed the soil the seed went shallower and did not germinate initially but what did went well, seemed to find the moisture. More has germinated with subsequent rain so am hoping it will even up with this cutting.
Do you do a full preparation for forage sorghum? I would like to just spray and drill if I do it again or change back to millet. I don't think our light soil is suited to working up on a regular basis.

Ken

1. If I see the side of a disc just above your modification, that seems to tell me you made some skids for it, liken unto skids on a 3 pt rototiller. That's an idea but with the weight of the thing in the 900# arena, how much surface area do you have to support it on the soil? I think I have seen pictures of high priced drims that have the ability to raise the drums. That would be nice. Might look into your idea and see what I have for support points. The oil tank is a good candidate, just use longer bolts holding the top on and bolt the mod to the cutter there.

Your stubble is perfect. No problem getting fast regrowth with that. Nice job.

I/m in Houston Black Clay and it's hard as a rock at the end of the season. I usually clip stubble if needed and then work the field up with the Hay King brand, pasture renovator, running about the same depth as you do, then come over it with a very heavy disc harrow using it as a plow to bury the surface material and loosen the top soil. Then a chain spike toothed harrow inverted so that it catches minimum surface material to smooth it out. I drill the seed and follow with a water filled steel roller.

This year I may try to overseed another, existing, mature pasture of Fescue, Coastal, and Rye just to see what happens.....without using a dedicated "No Till" drill. Doing it in probably March soil will be soft enough....will set the spring tension to max since you can plant SS deep. This depends on the going price for the bulk SS sellers in the area. In years past they have been in the $30/50# area, and I usually plant 50#/Ac for stem control, but this year, who knows. Seed is out of sight!!!!

I was reading up on it today and the generic SS plant responds very well to the first cutting if made in the 4' give or take height.....why that number I don't know but the article explains that doing that causes the roots to go deeper looking for water (course it's usually July-August time line), rather than remain bunched up near the surface like some other forage crops, (Bermuda obviously excepted) and coupling that with the fact that 4-5 sprouts come out of each stub, you have a better second cutting than the first.............as long as you can keep Sugar Cane Aphids at bay....my added comment which is my SS problem currently, but I'm working it!

What are you using for a crimper? I have a NH 404 and it works ok as long as I keep it in the 4-5' height range. That picture I posted was a horrible mess for me to get cleaned up, but I did and it made fabulous hay. Do not want to grow any that tall any longer.
 
That is a problem, I don't have a crimper. I sort of tedder it a lot with a rotary hay rake without the curtain on it which fractures it to some extent and hope for plenty of sunshine for sometime. The first few times around the field the skids were getting into the ground a bit until I realised I had it trimmed too far down in the front so after letting out the top link it floated over much better. It sounds like my old mower is a lot more basic than yours..
I am thinking of doing a bit of pit silage with it maybe next time. Mow it then the next day rake it and the run over the windrows with an old forage harvester I have which is really a flail mower with a chute on it that throws it into a cart.

Ken
 
wbvs58 said:
That is a problem, I don't have a crimper. I sort of tedder it a lot with a rotary hay rake without the curtain on it which fractures it to some extent and hope for plenty of sunshine for sometime. The first few times around the field the skids were getting into the ground a bit until I realised I had it trimmed too far down in the front so after letting out the top link it floated over much better. It sounds like my old mower is a lot more basic than yours..
I am thinking of doing a bit of pit silage with it maybe next time. Mow it then the next day rake it and the run over the windrows with an old forage harvester I have which is really a flail mower with a chute on it that throws it into a cart.

Ken
I run my tedder at max rpm and agree that unless the crop is really large stemmed, going over the field a couple of times or so, which I like to do anyway, regardless of crop type, does a great job of kinking the stems and letting the sap out.

I knew the first drum I bought needed a crimper so I started looking for a stand alone unit that was used prior to the advent of the MOCO. Had some 100 year old farms around here and found one with a lot full of old equipment they weren't using. I stopped by one day, did the hi thing, asked some questions, told my story, guy walked me out to his equipment, we milled around a bit and stumbled across 2. I bought the best one, a drag type for $400. The chain was worn as was the front drum sprocket and needed a chain tensioner spring. TSC had the chain and spring and for the sprocket, I bought their sprocket and cut the center out of it and welded it to the existing one without having to take it off. Mods wend real fast, greased her up, and put it to the PTO. Worked great.
 

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