John Deere 510 baler

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KenB

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I just bought a John Deere 510 round baler, does anyone have any experence with these?
With the drought here I will have to wait untill later to try it out.
 
Bought a used one and it has set ever since, for the same reason mentioned above, clogging, all balers will eventually clog one way or another. But, they are a real bear to get cleaned out.
 
C & C Land & Catt":30qrh2ko said:
GO SLOW! My first round baler was a 510. It was a good baler just don't cram it b/c unplugging sucks.

Thanks for the tip.
Does it plug up from feeding it to fast or what?
If I run it slow and or make smaller windrows will that help?
I won't be putting up alot of hay with it. Just if and when it starts raining here again I would like to bale excess grass.
 
Ken,

I have never baled any hay with a johndeer but from what i have herd they are really good balers. This was my first year to ever round bale hay. But from what i can tell the bigger the windrows the better. You might have to bale in a lower gear when the windrow is thick. But it seems like the baler will turn out better bales. That seems to be true for both square and round balers.

The only time i have ever had trouble with plugging up the round baler was when i started to bail before all of the dew was off and even then if i had of started off in a lower gear i probably would not of had any trouble then.

And then one day when the hay got to dry before i was finished baleing a feild. The baler plugged up on me. I dont know it this info is any help. But that has been my experience.
 
Those old closed-throat balers will plug up on a dry cow turd. At least the cow turds aren't as likely to start fires, though. When they plug up on cow bones or sticks is when you'll have fire trouble. Carry a pressurized water fire extinguisher on your tractor. Don't let it sour you on baling hay because you'll cuss it like a dog. Get rid of that baler as soon as you can and get an open-throat baler. Good luck.
 
I put up several thousand bales with a 510 although it was many years ago and the baler was only a few years old. Here are a few tips I remember , maybe they will help. starting can be tricky,I tried to start out going somewhat diagonal to get both sides going. If the belts cross very much kick it out and start again. 2. If the hay starts wrapping around the roller shut it down and clean it off,or if it starts climbing up the belts and the belts cross its to green 3.you will be able to see moisture on the belts also if it is to wet 4. carry a box end wrench with you(i don,t remember what size for sure maybe 1 1/8) to help you unplug. If you open the chaicase on the side you can turn it backwards after shutting the tractor off of course. It turns hard but when you get a stick or bone in there its the only way I new 5. When the stop sign comes up and you can just see the red and white under the p start your tie while still feeding hay into the baler, (helps the twine go around the bale instead of the roller)
 
I am using a 510 now. And I don't like it but it was cheap and it feeds my cows. Over the years, I have gotten much better at starting a new roll.
Starting rolls: It is best not to have a huge windrow. And mine likes to start on the left side much better than the right side. So I start on the left and as soon, I run about 5 feet I switch to the right. The belts may cross a little but if it does not start soon you better start over or work a while pulling out the clog. Feed the side with the slack belts. Sometimes in thick hay, I have pulled a little in the left side, then backed up, and pulled a little in the right side as switching over puts too much in the middle before I get both sides running.
OK so you got the bale started. Just watch what you are doing and try to roll one side then the other keeping the bale even as you go up. Feed the edges only and the middle will take care of it self. I run 1700 RPM at about 4 MPH. On My JD6300, that is gear C 2. By the way, I start and finish in gear C 1.
Now watch out when the hay gets thick or an un-level spot in the field. If you hit a high spot and it stops the pickup from turning but drags the hay along, when the pick up starts again it tries to put too much through the compression rollers and will clog. Or just trying to feed too much through the compression rollers will clog the bailer. Stop and turn the bailer backwards with a BIG wrench and pull out the clog. Turn off the tractor before working on the bailer.

Never try to bail wet or damp hay. The hay will wrap around the front guide bar and clog the bailer. It does this mostly when the bail is full.

Keep the gate shut. Mine will drift open if I don't reach over and tap the lever to close often.

Tying the bail: I index the string arm manually holding on the end to a count of 10 then bump it about 3 to 4 inches and count to 5. The bail will compress while tying so I run the string back across and tie the first round one more time and then just swing all the way back and cut the string. After cutting, I let it turn another round or two then dump.

Make sure the gate latches after you dump. Hay can get stuck over the latch and hold it open so just make sure the indicator shows closed.

See nothing to it. I make about 400 4olls a year but this year I am only to 176. Dry dry dry.

I have a video that came with the bailer that helped me get started. Look for one on e bay of I can try to make you a copy.
Please let me know how it goes.

Remember to make a good bail first you have to have it raked right and then keep both sides even while bailing.
May the force be with you. You are going to need it the first day so try on a few acres before you get the farn cut and brake the bailer with a rain comming.
 
Alabama,
Thanks alot for the advice.
I have never used a round baler, so this is going to be an experence for me. I expect to only be baling 1-200 rolls a year.
I have been buying all my hay, but with the drought hay has been getting harder to find and more expensive.
I won't be able to try it untill next year at the earliest. I have had to feed some hay this summer, and there isn't enough growing season left even if I get some rain.
 
Ken try to keep it out of the weather this winter. I would be great if you could cut a few acres and try it out this season so you know what to work on over the winter.
At least hook it up and walk around it while it is turning and listen for bearings and such.
 
farmer-greg":ohbzbd8g said:
if the belts are old and worn down they lose there gripping power -- greg

I would not know. I have never run one with belts that werent worn out? :help:
 

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