How to remove blades Bush Hog?

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MartinFarms

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I have a Bush Hog 2615 Legend mower and need help getting the blades off. I have removed the "drums" that the blades are attached to and also removed the nuts from each blade. I can not seem to get the blades off the shoulder bolt. Are the shoulder bolts threaded onto the drums or do I just need to beat them off with a sledge?
Thanks,
Sean
 
Put the nut back on until it is flush with the end of the bolt. And then get the sledge hammer. The blade should turn freely on the bolt shoulder. That is what lets it move instead of break when you hit something.
 
Also the bolts have a key built on them that goes into a keyway in the drum. Keeps the bolt from turning. Still just needs to go straight down. The sledge will do it.
 
Why would you take the drums off to replace the blades? The deck has holes in it to reach through to do the job.
 
dun":3rb7j26r said:
Why would you take the drums off to replace the blades?
When I split my tractor a couple of years ago I learnt that there were a whole lot of bolts and things that needn't have been removed :p .
 
Angus Cowman":3i14mr8n said:
dun":3i14mr8n said:
Why would you take the drums off to replace the blades? The deck has holes in it to reach through to do the job.

was wondering the same thing
another thing WHY are you taking the blades off! Are they Broke???
I take them off because it's easier sharpening them on the bench grinder. Touching them up is ok on the mower, but really serious sharpening.........................
 
The blades are past the point of no return. There are chunks of metal missing and a grinder just won't do the job. I loosened the bolts while the drums were still on the decks but when I could not remove the blades from the shoulder bolt I pulled off the drums.
 
If the blades have not been off in forever I just cut the bolts off and buy new bolts then they are easier to get off. Yes, taking the blades off if pretty important for proper sharpening, they are a single plane blade and it is pretty tough to get the top edge ground between the deck and the blade. The bottom edge is suppossed to be ground pretty much flat.
 
MartinFarms":g9fyx65m said:
The blades are past the point of no return. There are chunks of metal missing and a grinder just won't do the job. I loosened the bolts while the drums were still on the decks but when I could not remove the blades from the shoulder bolt I pulled off the drums.
I use a piece of drill stem about 2ft long and use it to knock the bolts out
I hold it on the bolt and hit it with a hammer
works everytime
 
hayray":1ra7xbkq said:
If the blades have not been off in forever I just cut the bolts off and buy new bolts then they are easier to get off. Yes, taking the blades off if pretty important for proper sharpening, they are a single plane blade and it is pretty tough to get the top edge ground between the deck and the blade. The bottom edge is suppossed to be ground pretty much flat.


on the 2615 it isn't that hard to sharpen them on the machine as the blades on the center section extends past the deck
and the wing sections are easy
if they are in real bad shape I have always used a torch to re bevel the blades while still on the mower
we cut several hundred acres of pasture a yr and usually 2-400 acres of heavy brush (2-6" dia) per yr
on grass I like them sharp on brush I want them dull

I also replace the bolts anytime I take a blade off
 
Angus Cowman":2sqpu5kh said:
hayray":2sqpu5kh said:
If the blades have not been off in forever I just cut the bolts off and buy new bolts then they are easier to get off. Yes, taking the blades off if pretty important for proper sharpening, they are a single plane blade and it is pretty tough to get the top edge ground between the deck and the blade. The bottom edge is suppossed to be ground pretty much flat.


on the 2615 it isn't that hard to sharpen them on the machine as the blades on the center section extends past the deck
and the wing sections are easy
if they are in real bad shape I have always used a torch to re bevel the blades while still on the mower
we cut several hundred acres of pasture a yr and usually 2-400 acres of heavy brush (2-6" dia) per yr
on grass I like them sharp on brush I want them dull

I also replace the bolts anytime I take a blade off
Still curious why you don;t just pull the blades instead of taking the drums off too
 
When you get ready to put the blades back on get some anti seize compound from an auto parts store and apply to the threads and other mating surfaces. Makes life simpler in the future.
 
it also makes it a lot easier if you will cut a few acres with it before you work on it... it frees everything up and cleans the rust off.
 
Angus Cowman":ofdyxnsj said:
hayray":ofdyxnsj said:
If the blades have not been off in forever I just cut the bolts off and buy new bolts then they are easier to get off. Yes, taking the blades off if pretty important for proper sharpening, they are a single plane blade and it is pretty tough to get the top edge ground between the deck and the blade. The bottom edge is suppossed to be ground pretty much flat.


on the 2615 it isn't that hard to sharpen them on the machine as the blades on the center section extends past the deck
and the wing sections are easy
if they are in real bad shape I have always used a torch to re bevel the blades while still on the mower
we cut several hundred acres of pasture a yr and usually 2-400 acres of heavy brush (2-6" dia) per yr
on grass I like them sharp on brush I want them dull

I also replace the bolts anytime I take a blade off


using a torch to rebevel the blades is a bad idea, you change the temper on the blade and its now not the correct hardeness. IF you have to rebevel it then at least get some hard faced rods and build it up and then grind it down.
 
MasseyFerg":2v8sz4x2 said:
using a torch to rebevel the blades is a bad idea, you change the temper on the blade and its now not the correct hardeness. IF you have to rebevel it then at least get some hard faced rods and build it up and then grind it down.

BH blades aren't tempered to begin with

if they were when you hit something the would chip or break out instead of smashing the cutting edge

also We have been re beveling them for yrs and the small amount of heat it takes wouldn't change the temper much even if they were hardedned unless your not efficient enough with a torch and have to get them real hot
 
Its not so bad to hit them with a grinder here or there to put an edge on them. If I am going to take the time to get them off... I'm going back with new ones. Just bought a new set for the Woods batwing and it was less than $400. Not worth dragging out torches and doing to much grinding for that price.
 

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