Help, Leaking oil

[Wick]

I have a 1979 Ford 5600 and it is leaking quite a bit of oil from under neath it. There is a hole with a metal thing hanging out of it. (it looks to be an over flow or something) It is located on the bottom of the tractor between the gear shift and the motor. I noticed it some last summer but not again till the other day driving fence posts. I don't think this is normal, but don't know what it is to fix it. Thanks if you can help.

 

[Kingfisher]

I have a 1979 Ford 5600 and it is leaking quite a bit of oil from under neath it. There is a hole with a metal thing hanging out of it. (it looks to be an over flow or something) It is located on the bottom of the tractor between the gear shift and the motor. I noticed it some last summer but not again till the other day driving fence posts. I don't think this is normal, but don't know what it is to fix it. Thanks if you can help.

What is on the other end of the metal thingy? Is it a breather vent ? Diesel or gas?

 

[kenny thomas]

It is a vent hole with something much like a carter key in it to keep it open. You either have a rear main seal leak or a front transmission seal leak. Is it bad enough that you are having to add oil to the engine or fluid to the transmission. Is the clutch slipping? If not it might not be bad enough to be worth trying to fix.

 

[B&M Farms]

is it motor oil or hydrolaulic fluid?

 

[Caustic Burno]

It is a vent hole with something much like a carter key in it to keep it open. You either have a rear main seal leak or a front transmission seal leak. Is it bad enough that you are having to add oil to the engine or fluid to the transmission. Is the clutch slipping? If not it might not be bad enough to be worth trying to fix.

You forgot to mention how much fun either is to repair.

 

[kenny thomas]

The old 5600 are nothing to fix like the newer tractors. In my younger days I could put a clutch in one in about 5 hours and be back working. Replacing the seals is a little more work though. If the oil is not getting on the clutch just keep the vent hole open and keep adding a little oil if it is not using a lot.

 

[John SD]

As long as you keep an eye on your fluid levels I guess you're not going to hurt anything worse by running it, except for the cost of oil leakage. The fix will require splitting the tractor and a new clutch. I'd probably change both engine main and trans seal regardless while in there. Loose bearing issues might be causing the seal failure. If so then you have to dig deeper in the tractor and in your checkbook.

But one thing I would check immediately is the breathers on the engine and transmission to make sure they are not plugged. Excessive pressure might force oil past the seals if the vents aren't working. You might get lucky.

Kenny and I were posting at the same time. He said what I was trying to in a much simpler fashion. Thank you!

 

[1wlimo]

As Kenny and John SD have said.

My father has a 1968 MF35X that has been doing this for years. Just keep checking the fluids, and not work it too hard if you can.

 

[dun]

As Kenny and John SD have said.

My father has a 1968 MF35X that has been doing this for years. Just keep checking the fluids, and not work it too hard if you can.

And the beauty of it is you are constantly changing oil so you don;t have to worry about it breaking down with use.

 

[Wick]

I have to use this tractor kinda hard its the biggest one I have and it does the most. So it is either a main seal going bad or the clutch needs replaced. How do you know which it is, as with most older fords this tractor is a little difficult to change gears, always has. I do notice I have to push the clutch all the way down to get it in gear. So this may be the culprit. Any one know what this is gonna cost me?

 

[Caustic Burno]

I have to use this tractor kinda hard its the biggest one I have and it does the most. So it is either a main seal going bad or the clutch needs replaced. How do you know which it is, as with most older fords this tractor is a little difficult to change gears, always has. I do notice I have to push the clutch all the way down to get it in gear. So this may be the culprit. Any one know what this is gonna cost me?

Splitting the tractor is going to be the cost. I had the clutch on my Massey rebuilt for 200 bucks. Local dealer wanted 1200 to split the tractor and repair the clutch. I didn't want to mess with it and decided I did after that qoute.
You need a couple of A frames, this isn't a five minute job.

 

[ALACOWMAN]

check out the crankcase vent system

 

[John SD]

If you attempt to do this job yourself be sure to have good blocking set up when you split the tractor. A shop manual for your tractor with step by step instructions would probably be helpful. I assisted a guy who split my Major many years ago. We had it in the shop on a good concrete floor. The main thing is to be safe. But again I agree with Kenny. As long as the clutch doesn't slip under load and the oil loss is acceptable, I'd keep driving it.

Is it trans or engine oil leaking? Either way, it still got to be soaking the clutch if you have "quite a bit of oil" leaking out of the bellhousing. It's just not feasible to try to get oil out of a clutch disk. Ironically, the oil leaking on it is likely why your clutch is too "grabby". It's just like a brake would be if oil is leaking out of the rear axle on a vehicle. Dry clutches and brakes do not like oil.

BTW, I have a pickup with the same problem. The engine is leaking oil into the clutch. I'm going to drive it until I have to fix it.

 

[Anonymous]

Just make sure you keep that weep hole clear. If it gets plugged, your clutch will get soaked with oil and you will have to replace the clutch for sure

 

[John SD]

Just make sure you keep that weep hole clear. If it gets plugged, your clutch will get soaked with oil and you will have to replace the clutch for sure

Good idea. The oil leak will attract dirt especially in dusty tillage or haying operations, which could plug the weep hole. If it was me, I'd keep on using the tractor as it is for now, but be alert for any sign or smell of the clutch slipping under load. If the clutch slips under normal operation, then will have to bite the bullet and fix it.

 

[Ridgefarmer63]

As long as you keep an eye on your fluid levels I guess you're not going to hurt anything worse by running it, except for the cost of oil leakage. The fix will require splitting the tractor and a new clutch. I'd probably change both engine main and trans seal regardless while in there. Loose bearing issues might be causing the seal failure. If so then you have to dig deeper in the tractor and in your checkbook.

But one thing I would check immediately is the breathers on the engine and transmission to make sure they are not plugged. Excessive pressure might force oil past the seals if the vents aren't working. You might get lucky.

Kenny and I were posting at the same time. He said what I was trying to in a much simpler fashion. Thank you!

Hi John, I am getting a little transmission fluid out of my cotter pin on a JD 5320. You mentioned the Transmission breather. Any idea where that is located on a 5320? Thanks, Mike