Fence Recovery

[Rogerwilco]

I have been discussing leasing some land for pasture that has not been used as such for quite some time. The owner is a general contractor who plans to subdivide the land and build homes on it, but would consider leasing the land for pasturing cattle between now and then. There are no existing fences on this land so I would be responsible for putting it up, and taking it down. Is there a type of fence that is well suited to this that can be re-used.

 

[dun]

HT electric

dun

 

[AngusLimoX]

What dun said.

More to fencing than just the type though. Brush clearing, rock drilling, survey, local law, etc..

You may wanna do a cost analysis depending how good this land is.

 

[jnowack]

http://www.gallagherusa.com/pf.types.aspx?pageid=322

The poly wire is hard to beat for a temporary fence. I also like the plastic step-in posts. Goes up quick and comes down quick. I just use T-posts at corners because you just pull the poly wire tight by hand and tie it off.

 

[dun]

http://www.gallagherusa.com/pf.types.aspx?pageid=322

The poly wire is hard to beat for a temporary fence. I also like the plastic step-in posts. Goes up quick and comes down quick. I just use T-posts at corners because you just pull the poly wire tight by hand and tie it off.

There is only one real problem with the step-in posts. In dry hard ground you need to use a masonary bit on a cordless drill to make a hole for the post. If left out in the sun, after 6-7 years they start to deteriate pretty fast also. For a lot of areas we've started using the fiberglass drive in posts 3/8". If you don;t have a driving cap, a .410 shotshell, already fired of course, makes a handy driving cap but they need replacing after 20 posts or so. If you go with the fiberglass posts and you think that you may ever have to touch them, spend the couple of extra pennys and get the UV stabilized ones

dun

 

[jnowack]

http://www.gallagherusa.com/pf.types.aspx?pageid=322

The poly wire is hard to beat for a temporary fence. I also like the plastic step-in posts. Goes up quick and comes down quick. I just use T-posts at corners because you just pull the poly wire tight by hand and tie it off.

There is only one real problem with the step-in posts. In dry hard ground you need to use a masonary bit on a cordless drill to make a hole for the post. If left out in the sun, after 6-7 years they start to deteriate pretty fast also. For a lot of areas we've started using the fiberglass drive in posts 3/8". If you don;t have a driving cap, a .410 shotshell, already fired of course, makes a handy driving cap but they need replacing after 20 posts or so. If you go with the fiberglass posts and you think that you may ever have to touch them, spend the couple of extra pennys and get the UV stabilized ones

dun

I did not know they had UV stabilized ones. We quit buying them mostly because of the splinters. I'll have to check into that.

 

[Rookie]

What dun said.

More to fencing than just the type though. Brush clearing, rock drilling, survey, local law, etc..

You may wanna do a cost analysis depending how good this land is.

I be in agreement with Anguslimo here. Ya need be sure it be worth the cost ya gonna have ta spend. There can be alot ya dont think about till ya be confronted with it.

 

[dun]

I did not know they had UV stabilized ones. We quit buying them mostly because of the splinters. I'll have to check into that.

Kencove lists them as sunguard

http://kencove.com/ShopItemIG.php?item=Fiberglass+Posts

 

[milesvb]

In lieu of fiberglass rods I've used 3/8" rebar with plastic insulators for a number years and have been satisfied quite well with the result. I haven't priced rebar lately so I don't know what it would run compared to fiberglass. For corners I use a single t-post for one to two polywires and add a brace with the aluminum t-post connectors for three or more strands.

 

[FROGHOLLOWFARM]

In lieu of fiberglass rods I've used 3/8" rebar with plastic insulators for a number years and have been satisfied quite well with the result. I haven't priced rebar lately so I don't know what it would run compared to fiberglass. For corners I use a single t-post for one to two polywires and add a brace with the aluminum t-post connectors for three or more strands.

But with the metal post,if the wire comes off the insulator it grounds the fence out.With fiberglass it does not ground out.

 

[milesvb]

In lieu of fiberglass rods I've used 3/8" rebar with plastic insulators for a number years and have been satisfied quite well with the result. I haven't priced rebar lately so I don't know what it would run compared to fiberglass. For corners I use a single t-post for one to two polywires and add a brace with the aluminum t-post connectors for three or more strands.

But with the metal post,if the wire comes off the insulator it grounds the fence out.With fiberglass it does not ground out.

score one more advantage to fiberglass :idea:

but not enough to make me replace several hundred rebar posts ;-)

 

[AngusLimoX]

When I think HT I think 12 ga wire ( 5000 lb break? ).

The poly is not in the same league is it? ( All my experience is 5 or 6 wire HT wire fence ).

 

[jnowack]

When I think HT I think 12 ga wire ( 5000 lb break? ).

The poly is not in the same league is it? ( All my experience is 5 or 6 wire HT wire fence ).

The poly wire will break much more easily. I like it because it is much more visible, goes up in about 1/10 the time, doesn't require as many posts, doesn't require heavy corner posts, and can be moved easily. About the only time we have something get out is if they get shoved through the fence or they just spook and run through. In those cases it doesn't seem to matter if you have poly wire or high tensile they still get through. I also think the poly wire is safer because if they get tangled in it they will break it rather than staying tangled up around their legs.

 

[milesvb]

When I think HT I think 12 ga wire ( 5000 lb break? ).

The poly is not in the same league is it? ( All my experience is 5 or 6 wire HT wire fence ).

The poly wire will break much more easily. I like it because it is much more visible, goes up in about 1/10 the time, doesn't require as many posts, doesn't require heavy corner posts, and can be moved easily. About the only time we have something get out is if they get shoved through the fence or they just spook and run through. In those cases it doesn't seem to matter if you have poly wire or high tensile they still get through. I also think the poly wire is safer because if they get tangled in it they will break it rather than staying tangled up around their legs.

I only have one elec. fence that is permanent but even that one is poly for now. It'll probably get converted to HT before long. I'm not so sure about the safer part with poly. I've seen a yearling (not ours fortunately) with poly imbedded around it's leg, not a pretty sight.

 

[Herefordcross]

The push in posts can be a treat to get in the ground. I've never tried to reroll HI T but, I be it's a treat without a pretty good Spinin' Jenny.

 

[msscamp]

In lieu of fiberglass rods I've used 3/8" rebar with plastic insulators for a number years and have been satisfied quite well with the result. I haven't priced rebar lately so I don't know what it would run compared to fiberglass. For corners I use a single t-post for one to two polywires and add a brace with the aluminum t-post connectors for three or more strands.

But with the metal post,if the wire comes off the insulator it grounds the fence out.With fiberglass it does not ground out.

With the type of insulators we use, that wire is not coming off unless it's broken.

 

[AngusLimoX]

The push in posts can be a treat to get in the ground. I've never tried to reroll HI T but, I be it's a treat without a pretty good Spinin' Jenny.

I don't even like unrolling it without a Jenny, pretty much a must have with HT wire.

 

[milesvb]

In lieu of fiberglass rods I've used 3/8" rebar with plastic insulators for a number years and have been satisfied quite well with the result. I haven't priced rebar lately so I don't know what it would run compared to fiberglass. For corners I use a single t-post for one to two polywires and add a brace with the aluminum t-post connectors for three or more strands.

But with the metal post,if the wire comes off the insulator it grounds the fence out.With fiberglass it does not ground out.

With the type of insulators we use, that wire is not coming off unless it's broken.

What type, please? Thanks.