Dry Corn Gluten Feed

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vc you have a good sound feed there with excellent TDN and enegy levels. You should get the good gains you mention....I'm assuming you feed mineral free choice. If not I'd ask the fellow from the feed company to incorporate some into the mix as well as a bit more phos and calcium. Are all of these ingredient in a meal form?? Nothing pelleted?? If it is then you shouldn't have any problem with separationn.
 
TexasBred":2y8pc4vg said:
vc you have a good sound feed there with excellent TDN and enegy levels. You should get the good gains you mention....I'm assuming you feed mineral free choice. If not I'd ask the fellow from the feed company to incorporate some into the mix as well as a bit more phos and calcium. Are all of these ingredient in a meal form?? Nothing pelleted?? If it is then you shouldn't have any problem with separationn.
Yes, we free choice mineral. Unfortunately, the soy hulls and corn gluten are pelleted. I'd have the whole mix ground except for problems with flow in the bulk bin. Otherwise, we get along really well with the mix. Thanks for the comments.
Valerie
PS. in case anyone is wondering why "oats" , a vet years ago told me to always include them in feed as they are the most complete source of protein I could feed. Hens love it too and they lay eggs better, ducks and geese lay eggs longer in the spring as it doesn't cause excess body heat. Guess you could call it the "all animal" feed. Good for Humans too, lol!
 
PS. in case anyone is wondering why "oats" , a vet years ago told me to always include them in feed as they are the most complete source of protein I could feed. Hens love it too and they lay eggs better, ducks and geese lay eggs longer in the spring as it doesn't cause excess body heat. Guess you could call it the "all animal" feed. Good for Humans too, lol!

Well your vet is partially right, that's why he's a vet. Oats are a good ingredient as they have adequate protein, some fiber in the hull and provide very decent energy, are more slowly digested than corn and are "cooler". Work well in starter/grower feeds but when you're reaching for a finisher diet very high in energy oats won't cut it. For your use tho they should work very well.
 
I feed out my steers and butcher bulls on this same feed. Is there a reason for having to use high energy? I get good gain on my feed at 15-20lbs per head + quality hay. Marbling is excellent - 4-8.01 marbling scores and low backfat. Wouldn't high energy just give me more back fat and not necessarily better marbling?
Valerie
 
vclavin":2bdoe9bx said:
I feed out my steers and butcher bulls on this same feed. Is there a reason for having to use high energy? I get good gain on my feed at 15-20lbs per head + quality hay. Marbling is excellent - 4-8.01 marbling scores and low backfat. Wouldn't high energy just give me more back fat and not necessarily better marbling?
Valerie

Only if you're operating a feed lot and trying to reach optimum weight in the shortest length of time.
 
TexasBred":10oclvag said:
vclavin":10oclvag said:
I feed out my steers and butcher bulls on this same feed. Is there a reason for having to use high energy? I get good gain on my feed at 15-20lbs per head + quality hay. Marbling is excellent - 4-8.01 marbling scores and low backfat. Wouldn't high energy just give me more back fat and not necessarily better marbling?
Valerie

Only if you're operating a feed lot and trying to reach optimum weight in the shortest length of time.

May I ask, how does "high energy" make them grow faster than high fiber? Is it the high energy or the amount they feed that causes the fast growth - not counting genetic ability of course.
Valerie
 
Depends on the quality and source of fiber. A better way to look at fiber is to consider the ADF (Acid detergent fiber (indicator of digestibility) and Neutral Detergent Fiber (fill factor) of a fiber source rather than Crude fiber or what we often just refer to as "fiber". High fiber diets are excellent as long as it is highly digestible fiber and is utilized rather than just filling an animal up which actually inhibits feed intake, makes for a lower calorie diet, thus less energy and slower weight gain. From what you gave me the fiber in your feed is excellent. You could replace the molasses in the mix with soybean oil and raise the energy considerably and still get dust control. (and oil doesn't evaporate). I'm not necessarily suggesting this..only mentioning it. Best of luck.
 
TexasBred":yvxitap3 said:
Depends on the quality and source of fiber. A better way to look at fiber is to consider the ADF (Acid detergent fiber (indicator of digestibility) and Neutral Detergent Fiber (fill factor) of a fiber source rather than Crude fiber or what we often just refer to as "fiber". High fiber diets are excellent as long as it is highly digestible fiber and is utilized rather than just filling an animal up which actually inhibits feed intake, makes for a lower calorie diet, thus less energy and slower weight gain. From what you gave me the fiber in your feed is excellent. You could replace the molasses in the mix with soybean oil and raise the energy considerably and still get dust control. (and oil doesn't evaporate). I'm not necessarily suggesting this..only mentioning it. Best of luck.

Assuming I can get the oil, at what rate would you add it. ALso, would the mix , then, still be OK to feed to everyone? Or just the ones to feed out?
Valerie
 
vclavin":9084c13s said:
TexasBred":9084c13s said:
Depends on the quality and source of fiber. A better way to look at fiber is to consider the ADF (Acid detergent fiber (indicator of digestibility) and Neutral Detergent Fiber (fill factor) of a fiber source rather than Crude fiber or what we often just refer to as "fiber". High fiber diets are excellent as long as it is highly digestible fiber and is utilized rather than just filling an animal up which actually inhibits feed intake, makes for a lower calorie diet, thus less energy and slower weight gain. From what you gave me the fiber in your feed is excellent. You could replace the molasses in the mix with soybean oil and raise the energy considerably and still get dust control. (and oil doesn't evaporate). I'm not necessarily suggesting this..only mentioning it. Best of luck.

Assuming I can get the oil, at what rate would you add it. ALso, would the mix , then, still be OK to feed to everyone? Or just the ones to feed out?
Valerie

Seldom is one mix good for everything on the farm without adjusting the amount fed. Each has different needs at different stages of growth and all depending on what your program is set up to accomplish in a given period of time. A freezer calf would need a different feeding strategy than one your growing into a replacement, mature cattle a different approach than a calf etc. etc. etc
 
vclavin":1t3rak13 said:
Do I replace the molasses with the oil pound for pound?

Does the oil contain nutrition like the molasses ? Or just energy?

Valerie

Val....veg. oil has no nutritional value other than energy. Molasses has some energy and protein but not much especially when inclusion rate is only a little over 40 lbs. per ton. More of a flavoring agent/attractant than anything.
 
vclavin":2pe0gsiu said:
Doesn't Black Strap molasses contain the nutrients whereas reg molasses contains the sugar?
Valerie
No protein but a few calories of energy and some trace minerals. Doesn't hurt anything to use it.. just don't expect a lot of return on your money.
 

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