Danuser Hammer- Any tips?

[david1852]

I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks

 

[callmefence]

I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks

I've drove thousands of pipe post with mine from a skidsteer. There is a learning curve and with pipe in rock if you do get one out of plumb you can simply use the Machine to bend it plumb. I've drove probably 50 wood post with it off the fel on the tractor. I used a man on the ground with a level. For the first foot or so he could make adjustments by simply pushing on the post. After that he would give me the directions and I would apply the pressure with the tractor and tilt . On warped post it's going to be a real challenge. Try to keep the post as plumb as you can until it gets deep enough that you have no control. Sorry I can't be more help. ... another good reason to use pipe..lol

 

[callmefence]

I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks

I've drove thousands of pipe post with mine from a skidsteer. There is a learning curve and with pipe in rock if you do get one out of plumb you can simply use the Machine to bend it plumb. I've drove probably 50 wood post with it off the fel on the tractor. I used a man on the ground with a level. For the first foot or so he could make adjustments by simply pushing on the post. After that he would give me the directions and I would apply the pressure with the tractor and tilt . On warped post it's going to be a real challenge. Try to keep the post as plumb as you can until it gets deep enough that you have no control. Sorry I can't be more help. ... another good reason to use pipe..lol

After reading your post again it sounds like you just need to get better post.

 

[david1852]

I just bought a new Danuser Hammer LM40 for my Kubota M7060 tractor loader. The Hammer has the extra weight kit, grapple and tilt feature. After greasing and checking everything, it mounted right to the loader without any issues.

I'm going to replace most of the fence around my 120 acres and do it as time will permit and a section at a time. To get familiar with the Hammer I decided to start with a 410' stretch out of sight of any curious eyes that might want to criticize my first time post driving skills.

I used 8" brace posts and 6" line posts. The 8" posts were repurposed utility poles and the 6" posts were treated round posts from the local co-op. The 8" posts were straight and were easy to plumb for the most part. The 6" posts were warped and bowed right from the bundle and were a pain to keep straight when driving. I had to reposition the tractor and Hammer quite a bit to keep them straight. The ground was red clay with very few or no rocks. Depth of the driven posts were 42" and the Hammer drove them in pretty quick. Maneuvering to keep them plumb slowed the process down though.

Any tips on keeping the posts straight when pounding them in, especially warped posts? Any other driving tips would be appreciated too!

Thanks

I've drove thousands of pipe post with mine from a skidsteer. There is a learning curve and with pipe in rock if you do get one out of plumb you can simply use the Machine to bend it plumb. I've drove probably 50 wood post with it off the fel on the tractor. I used a man on the ground with a level. For the first foot or so he could make adjustments by simply pushing on the post. After that he would give me the directions and I would apply the pressure with the tractor and tilt . On warped post it's going to be a real challenge. Try to keep the post as plumb as you can until it gets deep enough that you have no control. Sorry I can't be more help. ... another good reason to use pipe..lol

After reading your post again it sounds like you just need to get better post.

Thanks for the reply
That is my thought exactly. There are a lot of cattle farmers in my part of N.C. and in nearby S.C. but it seems like there is nobody that sells a quality post that is straight.

I've looked at the posts from 3 different Southern States co-op stores, Tractor Supplies, Home Depot and Lowe's. Looks like they all source all their posts from the same place and all look the same.

No one uses metal pipe around here so there's none available. All fences are all wooden posts or a combination of wooden posts and T-posts.

 

[Kingfisher]

Look at Kencove fencing. They sell and explain the difference in good post and amateur post.

 

[jltrent]

 

[david1852]

Looks like my setup.

 

[Brute 23]

Do you drive the wood posts with the flat bottoms or do you take an axe or some thing and put a little edge on them?

 

[bball]

Do you drive the wood posts with the flat bottoms or do you take an axe or some thing and put a little edge on them?

Never had the joy of using a Danuser hammer, but when we drove them with a maul in upstate NY, we cut a point on them with a chainsaw. Made all the difference in that rock laden clay.

 

[david1852]

Do you drive the wood posts with the flat bottoms or do you take an axe or some thing and put a little edge on them?

The Danuser rep I talked with said that flat bottom posts will drive in straighter.

 

[SmokinM]

I am here with you I bought one about 3 weeks ago. I have only played with it a little but I am running it on a skid steer. I would imagine it is much easier than on a tractor. Driving wood posts really straight is always a challenge especially where we have a lot of small rock in the ground. I wish I had done the added weight and think I may have to add it sooner than later.

 

[david1852]

I drove in about a dozen more posts today. Things seemed to go a little better but getting those warped posts to drive in straight is still a challenge. Having a helper on the ground today helped too.

My Hammer is supposed to have the weight kit but I haven't pulled the weight out to verify. I've driven both 8" and 6" and both seem to go in at about the same speed. I'm putting them down to 42". The first 24" goes in pretty fast with the last 18" taking a little more time. Right now the ground is pretty soft so it'll be interesting to see how it works in July or August.

One thing that I'm really impressed with is how solid the posts are in the ground. They don't move.

 

[SmokinM]

Finally got a chance to use mine yesterday for a bit. The machine as a whole is a nice design and works good but it is outgunned on 5-6" posts in the soil here. Gonna have to check into a weight kit for it and probably with the rock in the ground look at a pilot hole with an auger. Get down 24" and it slows way down or stops dead. You can beat the top off the post til it splits. As with most drivers I have seen a straight post when you finish isn't really an option either and I have no idea how you would even start to keep one straight with it mounted on the front of a tractor. Using the skid loader it is impossible and you can move that right where you sit and after every stroke you have to reposition the loader/post. If anybody has any other ideas or tips I am all ears but I sure don't see the production that everybody talks about with one.

 

[callmefence]

Finally got a chance to use mine yesterday for a bit. The machine as a whole is a nice design and works good but it is outgunned on 5-6" posts in the soil here. Gonna have to check into a weight kit for it and probably with the rock in the ground look at a pilot hole with an auger. Get down 24" and it slows way down or stops dead. You can beat the top off the post til it splits. As with most drivers I have seen a straight post when you finish isn't really an option either and I have no idea how you would even start to keep one straight with it mounted on the front of a tractor. Using the skid loader it is impossible and you can move that right where you sit and after every stroke you have to reposition the loader/post. If anybody has any other ideas or tips I am all ears but I sure don't see the production that everybody talks about with one.

You can't drive wood through rock. Pipe I bet would drive. And so fast you wouldn't believe it.

 

[Hippie Rancher]

I have MAYBE a 1/4 mile of fence that could have a small diameter wood post with a good point on it driven into the ground during a really wet period. That is totally amazing to me that you could drive a flat 8 inch post with any kind of machine at all.

 

[Nesikep]

I have MAYBE a 1/4 mile of fence that could have a small diameter wood post with a good point on it driven into the ground during a really wet period. That is totally amazing to me that you could drive a flat 8 inch post with any kind of machine at all.

Yup, same here in many places.. I can't even get the step-in posts to go in deep enough they stand on their own in some places

 

[SmokinM]

You can't drive wood through rock. Pipe I bet would drive. And so fast you wouldn't believe it.
[/quote]

I don't doubt that at all Fence but there is no pipe to be had within 1500 miles of here and the only man I know that builds decent pipe fence has been self quarantined in Texas for the last (just guessing) 50 years. My guess is he won't stop now :lol:

Just out of curiosity what does pipe run price wise? I am guessing you use 10' sticks for most post? I really wish it was an option for me. Pine posts are junk any way you look at them.

 

[callmefence]

You can't drive wood through rock. Pipe I bet would drive. And so fast you wouldn't believe it.

I don't doubt that at all Fence but there is no pipe to be had within 1500 miles of here and the only man I know that builds decent pipe fence has been self quarantined in Texas for the last (just guessing) 50 years. My guess is he won't stop now :lol:

Just out of curiosity what does pipe run price wise? I am guessing you use 10' sticks for most post? I really wish it was an option for me. Pine posts are junk any way you look at them.
[/quote]

Good 27/8 which is what we use mainly 1.10 to 1.30 is what I'm paying. Mostly try to get unused oilfield pipe. Being getting some good news structural reject pipe for 1.25. ..real good and a very thick heavy pipe. Still not as stiff( high tensil) as oilfield pipe. Which makes a difference when you're driving through rock.

 

[Rmc]

With the price of crude oil down to almost nothing. You should be able to pick up oilfield pipe fairly cheep and in abundance.i doubt there is anywhere in the us that you cant find oil field pipe fairly close . You have pennsylvania in the east , the dakotas,golf coast states,rocky mountain states

 

[SmokinM]

At that price I know why you swear by it. Pine is not much cheaper. If I could get it here I would sure think hard about using it. Wonder how it would hold up in our clay with the rainfall we get? No doubt it would last as long as the sorry salt treating we get now.