Building an outdoor wood furnace.

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ohiosteve

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I'm not sure why, but I've decided to document the construction of my forced air outdoor woodburning stove. I got an old worn out forced air wood furnace many years ago and used it for a few years until the sheet metal was so thin and had been patched so many times I had to retire it. For the past couple years I have been been planning the construction of the ultimate outdoor wood-burner so here goes.
I got this old natural gas separator by horse-trading my boss. It is 9 ft long and 30" diameter, 3/8" thick and 1/2" thick on the ends, this will be the burn chamber (Two actually if everything works out)
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I brought it into the shop and filled it full of water to avoid explosion while cutting it in half.
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Then I used the chop saw and cut it in half. I'm here now so obviously it didn't explode but yes, I was nervous.
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Now I have two burn chambers and the project is started.
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I would love to hear any suggestions or advice as I continue this project, I have until next fall to finish it.
 
My uncle built one in a shed out back. It burned four foot lengths of wood and he'd buy the scrap wood from shortwooders. It had a carriage to load the lengths and it ran all his heat and hot water but in the summer he used solar. It was pretty neat expecially being this was over forty years ago. Good luck and look forward to seeing the progress.
 
Tater, that is a heck of a wrench, it's a 5 footer and I can't even lift the SOB but I thought it would look good in the picture! Jo, I have been planning this build for years now and want to be able to burn 3-4 ft logs and i think thick walled steel is crucial ( Thermal mass.). Even though the water heating outdoor woodburners are the most popular, I think the forced air outdoor woodburners are more efficient and thats what I'm building.
 
jedstivers":2upm6f6y said:
Use at least 1/2" plate on the end.
Yep, I've got a 4' x 4' piece of 5/8" for the door side and the rest of the construction will all be square. I think the rounded burn chamber will be the most rugged because my old wood furnace failed on the corners and I have seen that on a few wood burners. Seems to me the thick round chamber may deform under extreme heat but should be more rugged. I might be wrong, but it would be the first time.....or maybe third.
 
ohiosteve":1s9pojtw said:
Tater, that is a heck of a wrench, it's a 5 footer and I can't even lift the SOB but I thought it would look good in the picture! Jo, I have been planning this build for years now and want to be able to burn 3-4 ft logs and i think thick walled steel is crucial ( Thermal mass.). Even though the water heating outdoor woodburners are the most popular, I think the forced air outdoor woodburners are more efficient and thats what I'm building.

I think that's why I REALLY bought a flatbed :lol2:
 
I started the exhaust last night. Using 6 1/2" well casing. I decided to go in the center of the burn chamber and put a baffle under it to keep the heat in the chamber a little longer. I'm also putting an adjustable damper further up the pipe. I'm sure I will have to fine tune the exhaust for efficiency once I get it going.
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I should have measured twice cut once. Made my hole way to big. I ended up cutting a bunch of short pieces of sucker rod to fill the 1/2" gap.
curlycalf013_zpse4f622d5.jpg

curlycalf014_zps2617483b.jpg

Definitely not my best work, but that's life. The front plate and door are next. I'm not sure if I want the draft inducer on the door or under it.
 
Some chilly nights have motivated me to get moving on this project. Here is how I marked the 5/8" plate for the end of the burn chamber that will be welded to a 20'" pipe that connects the burn chamber to what I call the "outer heat jacket". I hope the pictures help. Since I will be cutting the 5/8" plate freehand with a torch, I score my marks with a 1/32" cut-off wheel. This helps a lot. Believe me.


I welded this piece inside and out. The piece of pipe in front of me is a scrap of 20" thick wall well casing that will connect the burn chamber to the outer jacket. What will be the door is sitting on top of it, it is the leftover piece of 5/8".

Something I have thought about a lot with this project is the amount of heat loss up the exhaust. I have put an adjustable damper on the exhaust above the burn chamber, but I also added this piece of sheet metal below the exhaust that doesn't allow the heat to flow directly up the exhaust pipe.You can't see it in the picture but it completely blocks the rear of the burn chamber, forcing any heat and exhaust to stay longer and hopefully increase efficiency but we'll see.
 
ohiosteve":1osjdlsk said:
Tater, that is a heck of a wrench, it's a 5 footer and I can't even lift the SOB but I thought it would look good in the picture! Jo, I have been planning this build for years now and want to be able to burn 3-4 ft logs and i think thick walled steel is crucial ( Thermal mass.). Even though the water heating outdoor woodburners are the most popular, I think the forced air outdoor woodburners are more efficient and thats what I'm building.
60" pipewrench--lol--I have one from my youthful oilfield days , but I'm not mean enough anymore to use it.
Can't help with input on your build, but it all looks rugged enough to take the heat for the rest of your life.

I cut up a lot of separators and heater/treaters when I worked for a radiation remediation outfit and my butthole always puckered a bit on the first press of that oxy lever when cutting into a vessel--even if it has been purged and gas tested.

I guess it don't matter much, but was that separator certified to be N.O.R.M. free? Here on the Gulf Coast, they have to be before releasing for sale or use to the public.
 
greybeard":2v6ic4gu said:
I guess it don't matter much, but was that separator certified to be N.O.R.M. free? Here on the Gulf Coast, they have to be before releasing for sale or use to the public.
Good point GB. Is it possible for above ground equipment to test positive? I have hauled dozens of semi loads of old casing from this area to a big scrapyard and they always test for radioactivity and none of it has tested positive. What would the dangers be? Would I grow an extra arm because if so that would be pretty handy.
 
OK. Why? Impressive work. Where is the payback? Wood is an expensive fuel, and I have used a lot of wood over the years. I justified that I had to cut the fallen trees off the fences, anyway. Is your situation similar?
Chain saw, gas, pickup truck, splitter. No way that is cheap fuel. And save your back.
 
john250":1ymq94mm said:
OK. Why? Impressive work. Where is the payback? Wood is an expensive fuel, and I have used a lot of wood over the years. I justified that I had to cut the fallen trees off the fences, anyway. Is your situation similar?
Chain saw, gas, pickup truck, splitter. No way that is cheap fuel. And save your back.

Wood is a cheap fuel for me people pay me to remove it LOL.... splitting wood is fun and great exercise I love it. I have splitters and still use a maul.
 
Goods question John, usually towards the end of Feb. I also ask myself why. The main reason is I'm a cheapskate I hate buying fuel of any kind. I also have an endless supply of wood on my place I need to clean up. The beauty of the outdoor burner is it is not picky as to what it will burn, green wood, leaves, pine, if it fits in the door it will burn it as long as there's a bed of coals. The other reason for this project is I like building stuff, it keeps me out of trouble. I know what you mean about saving your back though.
 
I hope to be able to fill it once a day but we'll see. There's a lot of factors to consider. There will be a small blower below the door (draft inducer) that will be controlled by the thermostat in the house. When the thermostat calls for heat it's like a blast furnace and will go through some wood. There will also be an idle-air adjustment that keeps the fire barely burning when the house is up to temp. I'm sure it will take some tinkering to get it right.
 
I wish you the best luck that project is above anything I have ever done but looks like you are the man for the job.
 
ohiosteve":2nqani5f said:
I hope to be able to fill it once a day but we'll see. There's a lot of factors to consider. There will be a small blower below the door (draft inducer) that will be controlled by the thermostat in the house. When the thermostat calls for heat it's like a blast furnace and will go through some wood. There will also be an idle-air adjustment that keeps the fire barely burning when the house is up to temp. I'm sure it will take some tinkering to get it right.

I built a big one about 30 years ago to burn scrap railroad ties to heat a big shop. The burner went inside of a 1500 gal. tank with space all the way around. To extract the heat I forced air into the bottom of the open space and the hot air came out a 12 inch duct pipe at the top. With pressure around the burn chamber if there were any leaks they wouldn't contaminate the heated air. The biggest improvement was covering the whole thing with a mound of ag lime. It served as a huge heat sink for the whole system and stopped the cool period when it was needing fuel. We let the blower run all the time and slowed it down with a rheostat control if it was overly warm. The big problem was the help would get carried away sometimes and fill it with to much wood. How are you planning on extracting the heated air in your setup?
 
ohiosteve":mkomjck5 said:
greybeard":mkomjck5 said:
I guess it don't matter much, but was that separator certified to be N.O.R.M. free? Here on the Gulf Coast, they have to be before releasing for sale or use to the public.
Good point GB. Is it possible for above ground equipment to test positive? I have hauled dozens of semi loads of old casing from this area to a big scrapyard and they always test for radioactivity and none of it has tested positive. What would the dangers be? Would I grow an extra arm because if so that would be pretty handy.
No extra arm, but your present arms might become useless if you get leukemia in the futuree and Yes, absolutely above ground equipment gets contaminated. It's why we were cutting the separators up--to gain access so we could clean out the scale and rust. They were some of the "hottest" (most contaminated) items we worked with. But, it's not the steel itself that is radioactive--it's the rust and scale that precipitates out of the gas and liquids coming out of the ground. It is radioactive, but the steel is not--thus can be cleaned out--but every little speck has to be removed--and they can be microscopic in size.
Short term effects from ionizing radiation in NORM (Radium and Bismuth) is very very rare, rare enough to be considered zero. As the radiation passes thru cells tho, a long term effect begins as it slowly alters the cells in our bodies, but with norm, the exposure time has to be quite extensive. Years. More on that further down.
IF, the treater was cleaned properly, probably no risk. If not cleaned and tested, cutting and welding releases radon gas, which you breath in and it's possible to have long term effects from the gas. The other major risk, is from rust/scale under your fingernails, breathed in, lodged in a cut or opening in your skin or lodged in mucus membranes--especially the eyes--these little tiny bits, if contaminated, would contain and emit Radium Gamma radiation, as well as alpha and Beta particles. You can't stop gamma with normal clothing--we didn't even try. Skin or a sheet of paper will stop alpha particles--beta just a little more difficult, but with Radium 226, 228 and Radon 222 the nuculiies are "bone seekers". The find, migrate to, and concentrate in and and act on your bones and replace the calcium, causing the leukemia type cancers. This, is how NORM was discovered and put on the "radar" so to speak. A man in Mississippi came down with leukemia, and his medical history showed no cancer whatsoever in his family going back many decades. He worked in a pipe yard for a long time, cleaning drill and production pipe, had ingested dust while using the cleaning equipment and over a period of years, the bone seekers did their work.

NORM tho, is very very low level radiation. Exposure time length is the killer in any type of radiation. You can have a heavy dose of radiation exposure for a short time and be fine, or a longer length exposure time of a much smaller strength dose and have serious health problems--if that exposure time is in years or decades. We worked 8-16 hr days, for weeks at a time and never had any over-the-limit accumulative readings on our badges.

I'm sure you will be fine if you practice even the minimum normal safety precautions.
Wear at least a dust mask if you are unsure, even under your welding hood--won't stop Radon, but will stop you from breathing in a speck of dust. Long sleeves, and eye protection.

I mentioned mucus membranes--------they are thinner than your skin, and won't stop alpha or beta.
WASH--no, SCRUB your hands thoroughly before you go in your house--use a scrub brush if you think the unit is contaminated.
You do NOT want to transmit any little speck that is emitting an alpha particle to your or your loved one's mucus membranes-------if you get my drift. This aspect was emphasized several times when I was in class getting my certificate.
Again, I'm sure you'll be fine and live a long long life.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naturally_ ... e_material
 
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