Brace pins?

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Around here we use oilfield pipe cemented in the ground 3 to 4 feet and weld the brace together. It will outlast even treated wood and when the grass fires burn up half the county your fence is still standing.

J+
 
cfpinz":tmte84in said:
How did you plant those posts 6'-7' in the ground? Did you have a special auger or dig them by hand? Do you use a regular two handled digger to clean them out?

cfpinz

Phone company pole setter with the big auger on the back.

dun
 
i haven't used the brace pins they sell at tractor supply, instead we use a good sized lag bolt, we drill into the post rhen counter sink it into the post and drill a pilot in the cross post, they will snug down reall good if you use flat washers on em
 
I go with the economy minded folks...just drill a 3/8" hole and hammer a section of rebar through the post andthe cross bar; then do a diagonal loop across each post and tighten like a tourniquette.
Just my two bits worth DMc
 
john250":1bhexur5 said:
Unsecured braces inevitably fall out. Don't ask me how I know.

How many times have you seen an old brace wire with an empty loop right in the middle of it where the twitch stick used to be before it rotted out 20 years prior?? I've seen it countless times.. If there was any tension on the brace, it would have jerked that loop out of the brace wire -- but it doesn't. So, what good is a cross post in a brace that doesn't even have enough tension to jerk a loop out of the brace wire?

My point is, the cross post will stay in place so long as there's tension enough to hold it, and when there's no longer enough tension to hold it, it's no longer needed anyway.. So who cares if it falls out or not?

That's why I don't worry about notching them in or using brace pins or brackets or rebar or spikes or lagbolts or whatever... Tension will keep them there as long as they need to be there.
 
jnowack":18wvjy8f said:
I like the KIWI brace on page 3 and 4. You don't need a brace post. I just throw down a flat rock for the brace to rest on. I also use a high tensile wire for the brace wire with a tensioner tied in so I can go back and tighten it up if needed.

That's what we call a floating brace. I use 12.5 gauge high tensile for the tension wire and tighten it with a daisy tightener.

dun
 
I've got a Kiwi/floating/diagonal/kicker brace (whatever you wanna call it) against the inside of the corner post at three bends in my fence line -- flat rocks and all :lol: -- along with H-braces in each direction of pull. Should be solid..

And yet, one is actually failing right now.. :mad: The corner post can't go left, can't go right, and can't lean in, so it's going the only place it can go -- straight up. That particular corner post is a 6" x 7-1/2' post, driven about 30" deep. It's come back out a good 12-15 inches already, thanks to a pocket of deep topsoil and one of the wettest Fall seasons on record. The mud just flat out won't hold the post down against the pull of the fence.

Luckily, one big advantage of hi-tensile fence and using hi-t wire and inline strainers to build braces is that I can let it all go slack, fix what needs fixing, and tighten it back up with minimal cost. It's the "fixing" part that's got me stumped..

How do you fix dirt? :lol: :lol:
 

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