Blind bearing removal

[M-5]

Need to remove a spacer out of the lower housing where the lift arm attach to the shaft . This spacer has to removed to put new seals in. I have a slide hammer but it's not budging and its tight area. Need ideas to get this pulled.

 

[M-5]

I had an idea to attach the bearing puller in the race. Get another nut to screw on to the mandrel and weld a grade 8 bolt to it then get a piece of heavy wall pipe that will fit on the housing the bridge the pipe with a 1/2 " thick bar with a hole in it then attach a nut to the bolt sticking thru hole.

 

[cfpinz]

Post a picture if you can.

 

[M-5]

here is the schematic , I am attempting to replace #9 - number #8 is a bushing in the housing that has to be removed . I can get the slide hammer in it but just can not get enough force to make it break free. The end of the slide just clears the tire and rim. very awkward . I thinking I need a screw type puller

 

[M-5]

http://partstore.agriculture.newholland ... 11ar597620

link to the parts page

search part number 47129340

 

[Nesikep]

here is the schematic , I am attempting to replace #9 - number #8 is a bushing in the housing that has to be removed . I can get the slide hammer in it but just can not get enough force to make it break free. The end of the slide just clears the tire and rim. very awkward . I thinking I need a screw type puller

The answer is evident.. remove tire and rim

Any chance a piece of ready rod (all thread) can be used to get in there? I've made many pullers out of that.. probably want at least 1/2"

 

[M-5]

I just spent 30min at fastenal trying to explain to the guy what I wanted to do. Finally he understood but did not have the bolts long enough to do it the way I wanted so here is a sketch of what I'm gonna make this afternoon to attach to the blind hole mandrel.

 

[cfpinz]

All jokes aside, I'd just jerk the tire and wheel out of the way so you could use the slide hammer effectively. Would take less time than fabricating special tools.

If you go with the above route, I'd try to make the outer sleeve out of sch 40 pipe, the flat bar will twist too easily.

I'd avoid heating the housing if possible, shouldn't be necessary on that new of a tractor anyways.

 

[M-5]

All jokes aside, I'd just jerk the tire and wheel out of the way so you could use the slide hammer effectively. Would take less time than fabricating special tools.

If you go with the above route, I'd try to make the outer sleeve out of sch 40 pipe, the flat bar will twist too easily.

I'd avoid heating the housing if possible, shouldn't be necessary on that new of a tractor anyways.

You underestimate my fab skills , while it would only take a few minutes to remove a fluid filled rear tire getting it reinstalled by myself might take a little longer. The pipe was my first idea so I may still use that option biggest deal is cutting pipe square and welding up a 9/16 coupler bolt to fit mandrel

 

[Kingfisher]

Have you seen the attachments snap-on has for slide hammers?

 

[M-5]

https://store.snapon.com/Blind-Hole-Bea ... 35314.aspx

for 645.00 bucks ill use it if you'll buy it.

 

[Kingfisher]

http://www.autotoolworld.com/Sir-Tools- ... aQodwYIAUg

 

[M-5]

http://www.autotoolworld.com/Sir-Tools-PC-ST9006-Storage-Case-For-Blind-Hole-Bearing-Pull_p_205376.html?gclid=CMvkhbmosM8CFQqmaQodwYIAUg

I have one very similar to that , its not budging , I beat on it 30 minutes yesterday

 

[Kingfisher]

Can you heat it up? Probably won't take much...

 

[M-5]

Can you heat it up? Probably won't take much...

Fire and hyd fluid does not mix very well

 

[Kingfisher]

Can you heat it up? Probably won't take much...

Fire and hyd fluid does not mix very well

Yea that would be a negative grasshopper...if you take the wheel off can you get a good swing with a big slide hammer?

 

[M-5]

Can you heat it up? Probably won't take much...

Fire and hyd fluid does not mix very well

Yea that would be a negative grasshopper...if you take the wheel off can you get a good swing with a big slide hammer?

Yes , That's the last resort , The tires are filled and will take a couple of folks to maneuver them. I think once I fabricate a puller to attach to collet it should come out . then I have to repeat process on the other side

 

[M-5]

Took maybe 10 min tops to build the puller , i had short piece of 3" pipe that worked perfect . Bushing top right it houses seal and spherical bearing. The shop foreman at NH apparently don't know his ass from a hole on the ground , told me to pull bushing and I could get to seal then


.I had to press out spherical bearing then blind pull seal race and then press it all back together. The bushing drove back in housing pretty easy with a 6# hammer.

 

[greybeard]

Proving once again, that necessity is the mother of invention. I have had a similiar experience with Fastenal. I had a need for a solid piece of 3/4 or 1" square polycarbonate, PVC, or nylon. (didn't matter to me which--any of them would have worked) I could not get the guy to understand that I did NOT want square tubing--it had to be solid. He got pvc in his head and just kept saying "we don't sell plumbing stuff". :bang: :bang:

BTW, I have one of those type bushing removers, with the threads in one end and the fingers on the other end--dunno what it's for, or it's id/od size, but if you want it, I'll send it to you. A pity you aren't closer--I'm fixing to get rid of a lot of my old mechanic tools, including some big pullers that I'll never again use--but they are too heavy to cheaply ship. I'll post a picture of that puller later today. My fabrication days are pretty much over for good. Got any use for a set of adjustable precision reamers--the kind that were used to ream out bronze kingpin, piston pin and cam bushings to correct size?? Would rather thm go to someone that can use them than just stuck in a yard sale.

 

[M-5]

PM me I'll pay shipping