Best warm season annual grass for grazing?

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In mid process of pasture renovation and it's been a slow arduous process. We've soil tested sprayed and limed, now we're wanting to plant some summer annuals before planting cool season grasses. We did an area of wheat, oats and rye, but wanted to go back and expand the area and do some summer grasses. Had heard pearl millet does not get along with rye, so wanted something different for that patch of rye. Thoughts and suggestions welcomed. Several grasses to chose from but not sure which is best for hot southern summers for cows.
 
Look up Dr. Ray Archelleta or some of his cohorts for info on blends. Blends work well because they balance out the diet, fill in all of the spaces, have some yin and yang depending on dry or wet and can be economical. Also UGA has an excellent forage website and educational info. Planting and seed cost are a major consideration but the other big cost to plan is fertilization; one time, multiple times, strip graze then boost, ...
 
Agree with Ebenezer's recommendations. I'm down in the coastal plains, and have been scared away from the sorghum family from the sugar cane aphid...but really liked sorghum sudan in the mix before that pest became a major nuisance. My summer mix now is Tif leaf 3 pearl millet (10-15lbs) Sunn Hemp (5-8 lbs) cow pea (5-8lbs) and crabgrass (0.5-2lbs) The first two are the heavy lifters, and will dominate the sward with the first graze...but if you don't overgraze with your first pass, and allow enough rest, the cowpea and crabgrass will be there for your second (and if you plant early enough and manage correctly) third grazing. Guess some of this depends on rainfall, too. You can manage the crabgrass to reseed if you so desire, and that would be the only reason i'd consider planting more than 1 lb. It's expensive, and you have to be careful not to plant it too deep. I'm not sure I know what you mean by rye and pearl millet not getting along. The rye should be played out by the time the soil temp is warm enough to plant the summer annuals, and shouldn't have an alleopathic effect. I've tried some other species down here, but nothing has worked as good as these 4. I might try a few more this year, after hearing Dr. Christine Jones (and Ray would agree, I suspect) report that 7 or more species is required to garner the full effect of multi species planting symbiosis. Perhaps the sunflower (like in Ray's summer mix). The t-raptor, while a great species for winter, didn't work for me in summer. Too durn hot down here.
 
jdg said:
Agree with Ebenezer's recommendations. I'm down in the coastal plains, and have been scared away from the sorghum family from the sugar cane aphid...but really liked sorghum sudan in the mix before that pest became a major nuisance. My summer mix now is Tif leaf 3 pearl millet (10-15lbs) Sunn Hemp (5-8 lbs) cow pea (5-8lbs) and crabgrass (0.5-2lbs) The first two are the heavy lifters, and will dominate the sward with the first graze...but if you don't overgraze with your first pass, and allow enough rest, the cowpea and crabgrass will be there for your second (and if you plant early enough and manage correctly) third grazing. Guess some of this depends on rainfall, too. You can manage the crabgrass to reseed if you so desire, and that would be the only reason i'd consider planting more than 1 lb. It's expensive, and you have to be careful not to plant it too deep. I'm not sure I know what you mean by rye and pearl millet not getting along. The rye should be played out by the time the soil temp is warm enough to plant the summer annuals, and shouldn't have an alleopathic effect. I've tried some other species down here, but nothing has worked as good as these 4. I might try a few more this year, after hearing Dr. Christine Jones (and Ray would agree, I suspect) report that 7 or more species is required to garner the full effect of multi species planting symbiosis. Perhaps the sunflower (like in Ray's summer mix). The t-raptor, while a great species for winter, didn't work for me in summer. Too durn hot down here.

jdg I used some aphid resistant sudex last year and had some that wasn't. There was a half mile between patches, the aphid resistant was down wind of the one that wasn't. The aphid resistant really was resistant and wasn't overcame by the aphids, the other went down from the aphid pressure.
 
What variety was it, Allen? I've heard they were trying to select for it, but haven't heard much about the results.
 
I've heard of folks here having trouble combining milo because of the aphids. Do they affect the BMR before seedheads form? If you grazed it early would it be ok?
 
Research i've seen, and I think it was in GA, was that they were concentrated mainly in July-Early August...and yes, they will suck the sugar out of the plant, and leave sticky deposits on the leaves. I baled a field after the damage was done and we had to clean the rollers in the baler 4 times from where the plant was sticking. This was a summer mix i'd planted, and not straight sorghum sudan. It was such a pain, and did such damage to my grazing that year, i haven't planted since. I'm hopeful the "resistant" varieties will prove to be successful so it can regain a place in my annual mix.
 
aphids are just beginning to be a problem here...we have traditionally used pearl millet, sorghum sudan and regular grain sorghum as part of our summer mixes...din; know what we will switch out to...

will contact Keith Berns at Green Cover seed for his advice....

we also like to add cowpeas, sunhemp, buckwheat, sunflower, improved chicory, mung beans, rape , triticale or other spring type cereals ,
and broadleaf mustard to our mixes
 
Ebenezer said:
Look up Dr. Ray Archelleta or some of his cohorts for info on blends. Blends work well because they balance out the diet, fill in all of the spaces, have some yin and yang depending on dry or wet and can be economical. Also UGA has an excellent forage website and educational info. Planting and seed cost are a major consideration but the other big cost to plan is fertilization; one time, multiple times, strip graze then boost, ...

I watched some of Dr. Ray Archelleta videos on youtube a few years ago. I changed how I did many things after that. It makes you think differently about the soil. I can say without reserve that I grow much better grass now thanks to Ray!
 
True Grit Farms said:
I wouldn't plant a warm season crop without Alyce clover in the mix.

green cover has recommended berseem clover to me but I can not find it locally and just have not ordered it from green cover.
 
True grit-

How many pounds of Alyce would you put in a mix? 4-8 lbs? How aggressive does it grow compared to the other summer annuals?
 
jdg said:
True grit-

How many pounds of Alyce would you put in a mix? 4-8 lbs? How aggressive does it grow compared to the other summer annuals?

I use twice that much myself, Alyce clover really comes on later when most of the other summer annuals are backing up. I prepare a good seed bed in the spring and then just no-till cereal grains right through it in the fall.
 
jdg said:
What variety was it, Allen? I've heard they were trying to select for it, but haven't heard much about the results.

Super Sugar DM was the variety http://www.gaylandwardseed.com/super-sugar-delayed-maturity.html. Sugar cane aphid tolerant is the term they used in their literature. Toward the bottom of the page is a link to a pdf to flyer and that is where they say it is aphid tolerant. I would plant this variety again it handled the drought stress well.
 
I've bought from Gayland ward before. Good products and very reasonably priced.
 

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