any tips for building fence out into a pond?

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greybeard

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I need to fence off a recreational portion of my pond bank---cows are knocking everything around there down--tables, light, benches, pushing the boat out into the water etc.
PProblem is, the pond level varies from season to season and now it is at max high, so I will need to put posts out in the water about 8' off the current bank.
How?
(no, I don't have an excavator or long boom backhoe to pound them down with)
 
greybeard":f3tj984o said:
I need to fence off a recreational portion of my pond bank---cows are knocking everything around there down--tables, light, benches, pushing the boat out into the water etc.
PProblem is, the pond level varies from season to season and now it is at max high, so I will need to put posts out in the water about 8' off the current bank.
How?
(no, I don't have an excavator or long boom backhoe to pound them down with)


get the long tpost like you see along the interstate. they are surprisingly easy to drive while in a boat. it does require 2 people. One to drive the boat and help you get back in after you fall out. use poly tape or rope. Have it where you can enable or disable each strand from the bank as the water lever changes.
 
I have laid T post end to end, and over lapped them about 10 inches or so, and welded them together for that purpose.
 
M5farm":1mzgzek0 said:
greybeard":1mzgzek0 said:
I need to fence off a recreational portion of my pond bank---cows are knocking everything around there down--tables, light, benches, pushing the boat out into the water etc.
PProblem is, the pond level varies from season to season and now it is at max high, so I will need to put posts out in the water about 8' off the current bank.
How?
(no, I don't have an excavator or long boom backhoe to pound them down with)


get the long tpost like you see along the interstate. they are surprisingly easy to drive while in a boat. it does require 2 people. One to drive the boat and help you get back in after you fall out. use poly tape or rope. Have it where you can enable or disable each strand from the bank as the water lever changes.
I've done that before, last year--driving 2" pipe with a 3 1/2" driver. It was not fun or easy and I learned to tie a rope on the driver--lots easier than going down and searching thru the muck in 4' of waterfor the dropped driver.
It was that experience that leads me to ask for tips.

Greybeard's Law states that Every single action IN a boat causes an equal and opposite reaction TO the boat.

The welded together Tee posts is an idea worth pursuing, but how much strain can they take from the wire without giving and the wire get loose? Gotta be braced off somehow.........
 
I used bull panels wire tied to 8' t-post. Wish I would of welded two 6 footers together. :dunce:
 
Check with your local NRCS offcie, ours has information on using floating electric fence.
 
I would drive in wooden post and use electric fence that could be raised and lowered. You could have more wires and raise and lower the connection
from the bank as needed. I have used metal post and barbed wire and found that it didn't last many years.
 
I really don't want to have to buy another solar charger--there's no other elec fence out near there and no house current run that far and to be honest, I have lots of kids that come fish there--I would rather not use a hot wire for this.

(actually, I do have a backhoe that I could drive post down with except it's so wet and mushy everywhere right now I dare not try to even drive it across the pasture.)

What kind of bad things would happen if I strung my leads out from my portable welder and welded horizontal braces on the tops of driven steel posts ---welding from my aluminum boat?
 
The only problem with drving posts in the bottom is the chance of punching through the clay blanket and having a leaky pond
 
Thanks Dun--there's a ton of all kinds of other information on that website too---got some ideas on how to make use of my sister's seep springs as well as my fencing questions.
 
Will the spinning jennys I see at tractor supply and McCoys (a preifert dealer) handle a 4000' roll of high tensile wire?
 
greybeard":1wtq42ag said:
Will the spinning jennys I see at tractor supply and McCoys (a preifert dealer) handle a 4000' roll of high tensile wire?
I don;t care for the new priefert design but they're old one holds it easily.
 
I've looked into this problem also. What I found that may work, havent tried it yet, was PVC pipe set up to where it would float itself allowing it to rise and fall with water level.
 
Put on your water wings and walk out in the pond with a step ladder and set it up. To dig your hole just take a pump off a nurse tank and put it in a boat with the intake leading into the water and on the outflow hose attach a length of galvanized pipe about 10 foot long and stand on the step ladder and wash a hole where you want the post to be then then stick the post in the hole and let drive it in with its own weight till it sticks then let nature fill the hole back in.
 
Not at all. That's how I set posts in the water for docks and stuff. Stepladder will sit right on the bottom in one spot. Lots easier than messing with a boat. Even moving the posts are easy cause they float. Give it a try. Um, some film footage of you first getting the hang of it would be nice though. ;-)
 
Joe, I never know whether you're being serious or facetious, especially after reading your posts in Sky's alpaca thread.
Either way, I don't think the stepladder thing will work for me. Water is fairly shallow, but about 2 ft of soft muck on the bottom.
I foresee disaster and a wet Greybeard in the making.
Done decided I'm going to put this off till Sept anyway---when the water level has dropped---we've had a very wet April, May, and June.
 
A pump with a jet will work real good Gray Beard. Jogeephus nailed it again, I do plan on trying the step ladder trick myself.
 

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