When to worm?

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I would suggest you not put out the worming block at all, run them through the chute and use something Ivermec or Cydectin - reason being is that you cannot control the dosage with a block, but you can sure control the amount of Ivermec or Cydectin you pour on! ;-) I would also recommend you do this twice a year - once in spring and again in the fall. Another aspect of de-worming is grub control. You will need to talk to your vet, county extension office about this - heel fly season varies from area to area, and killing grubs at the wrong time of year carries the risk of killing your cattle.
 
Have seen cows "wormed" with these blocks and their stool samples were loaded with worms. In my opinion, the block is only good for a follow up treatment to the needle but you may ask yourself - why would I want to do that? And honestly, I don't know.
 
i like to hold out on worming (pour-on) if i can until i can best utilize the wormer to get rid of or prevent flies.
 
If the worming block is your only resort, do it now. It may do some good but you are still going to have problems.

It is best to do it right. If you have cows you cannot access, the worming block is your only alternative. It is not very effective. Especially for the cost.
 
As MS said the only real way to worm is to control the dose. I don't know about cattle but I know with horses they become resistant to wormers (the worms become resistant) so is why you rotate the type of wormer and don't use an everyday wormer.

Does anyone know if this is true with cattle?

Alan
 
The Safeguard blocks are a very effective control for parasites.

There is evidence of parasite resistance in some of the anthelmintics now.

We might all be smart to change up methods of preventing them more often.
 
Angus/Brangus":3mpf3mj9 said:
Alan":3mpf3mj9 said:
As MS said the only real way to worm is to control the dose. I don't know about cattle but I know with horses they become resistant to wormers (the worms become resistant) so is why you rotate the type of wormer and don't use an everyday wormer.

Does anyone know if this is true with cattle?

Alan

Yes, our vet said to rotate brands as well as pour-on and injectible on the cattle. But I thought it was the fly's that can become resistant, not the animal - --?

Sorry I was not clear, it is the parisite (the worm) that becomes resistant.... as Mike C stated.

Alan
 
Alan":24ls06z1 said:
As MS said the only real way to worm is to control the dose. I don't know about cattle but I know with horses they become resistant to wormers (the worms become resistant) so is why you rotate the type of wormer and don't use an everyday wormer.

Does anyone know if this is true with cattle?

Alan

All parasites can become resistant to certain active ingredients. This is usually caused by under dosing. The principle works the same as a vaccination in cattle. You give a small amount (or modified strain) of the bad stuff to the animal and let his immune system deal with it. The same applies to parasites, if the only get a small amount of the active ingredient in (or wrong dilution, etc) their immune systems can deal with it and resistance is created. The problem can be caused by a neighbour or could have been caused years ago or simply from the overuse of a certain chemistry over the years and you will also have the problem.

In SA where tick resistance is a huge problem the vets and Agriculture Research Council suggests that you stick with one product untill you get a problem, then move on to one with COMPLETELY different chemistry. According to research this is the only way to break the current resistance.

In the case of ticks, if you have used pretroids and have resistant ticks then change to amitras or avermectins. Its no use changing to a slightly different product, ie don't change form a flumetrin to a cypermetrin or deltametrin ( all piretroids).

The same applies for anthelmintics for internal parasites.
 
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