Weight gain

[G&L Cattle]

Our weaned calves are 300 lbs and up. crossbreds with no ear (char, limi, angus) no horns. They have free choice hay/grass and occasional grain. What weight range should I expect the most rapid gain. GLEN

 

[Texan]

What weight range should I expect the most rapid gain.

Glen, I'm not real sure I understand your question, but I'm going to give it a shot since nobody else has. The evasive answer is that its all dependant on nutrition.

Actually, they should make make the most rapid gains after they get in the feedlot because they don't need to be pushed that hard until you're ready for them to finish. But, I assume that you're talking about prior to the feedlot?

If they were mine, I would expect the best gains at whatever weight range they're at when Spring grass gets here. When I winter light calves like that on hay and ryegrass, they don't reach their potential because I don't spend the money it takes to put it on them in the winter. To me, hay is pretty high-priced feed. Ryegrass is too, if you have to seed it every year.

Along with hay and ryegrass, I normally use a salt-limited range meal at about a pound per day for a little supplemental protein and all the loose mineral they will clean up. If I make 'em rough it a little bit through the winter, I've always felt that they'll make it up when grass gets here. So, I try to do about three-quarters to a pound a day gain through the winter and then they'll be ready to do two plus easily when grass gets here. That's when they start to make money for me. When they're feeding themselves and I'm not having to haul it to them.

 

[Running Arrow Bill]

We're weaning our Longhorn calves between 350 and 450 lbs at 205 days. Their rate of gain from birth to about a year old usually averages around 2# per day. Some of our calves have been averaging 2.5 to 3# a day gain. Of course this tapers off when they reach 65% of their adult weight.

On mama till weaning. Then on bermuda grass pasture with supplemental bermuda round bales. 30% protein tub & salt free choice. Some calves will get supplemental 20% cubes and sweet feed if they start to lose condition. When grass is good they all seem to prefer grass to hay. We don't "pre-condition" or other force weight gain--just feed them as needed to maintain body condition score of at least 5.

 

[G&L Cattle]

Hello neighbor!
Thanks for writing! I agree that weight gain depends on nutirion. What I am wondering is this--is there a weight range when growth is more rapid? 300-400 lb 400-550 lb 550-700 lb

Glen

 

[Texan]

What I am wondering is this--is there a weight range when growth is more rapid?

Assuming that you are meeting the requirements for maintenance and growth that are relatively exclusive to each stage of development, I would expect the most rapid growth at the lighter weights.

 

[Tod Dague]

What weight range should I expect the most rapid gain.

Glen, I'm not real sure I understand your question, but I'm going to give it a shot since nobody else has. The evasive answer is that its all dependant on nutrition.

Actually, they should make make the most rapid gains after they get in the feedlot because they don't need to be pushed that hard until you're ready for them to finish. But, I assume that you're talking about prior to the feedlot?

If they were mine, I would expect the best gains at whatever weight range they're at when Spring grass gets here. When I winter light calves like that on hay and ryegrass, they don't reach their potential because I don't spend the money it takes to put it on them in the winter. To me, hay is pretty high-priced feed. Ryegrass is too, if you have to seed it every year.

Along with hay and ryegrass, I normally use a salt-limited range meal at about a pound per day for a little supplemental protein and all the loose mineral they will clean up. If I make 'em rough it a little bit through the winter, I've always felt that they'll make it up when grass gets here. So, I try to do about three-quarters to a pound a day gain through the winter and then they'll be ready to do two plus easily when grass gets here. That's when they start to make money for me. When they're feeding themselves and I'm not having to haul it to them.

Hey Texan do you plant anything for winter grazing or have a volunteer cool season grass that comes up? Just curious because you stated that Ryegrass was an expensive feed. I plant a lot of ryegrass because it is the cheapest way that I know of. That is a cost that I would like to cut if possible.

 

[Texan]

Hey Texan do you plant anything for winter grazing or have a volunteer cool season grass that comes up? Just curious because you stated that Ryegrass was an expensive feed. I plant a lot of ryegrass because it is the cheapest way that I know of. That is a cost that I would like to cut if possible.

Tod, I just try to let my ryegrass go to seed every year. I seeded some a few years ago and I think it ended up costing 60 or 70 dollars an acre. That's with attributing the full fertilizer cost to the ryegrass establishment and none to residual. To me, that's an expensive feed. But, some people say I'm a tightwad, so I guess you have to put everything in perspective. ;-)

However, if you have a place where you don't already have cool season grasses or weeds established, I think ryegrass is a good investment. I just try to manage it so that I don't ever have to seed it again. That includes letting ryegrass mature in the hay meadows before cutting that first cutting. Its amazing how much "free" seeding you can do by feeding first cutting hay in areas where you want to establish ryegrass.

 

[Tod Dague]

Hey Texan do you plant anything for winter grazing or have a volunteer cool season grass that comes up? Just curious because you stated that Ryegrass was an expensive feed. I plant a lot of ryegrass because it is the cheapest way that I know of. That is a cost that I would like to cut if possible.

Tod, I just try to let my ryegrass go to seed every year. I seeded some a few years ago and I think it ended up costing 60 or 70 dollars an acre. That's with attributing the full fertilizer cost to the ryegrass establishment and none to residual. To me, that's an expensive feed. But, some people say I'm a tightwad, so I guess you have to put everything in perspective. ;-)

However, if you have a place where you don't already have cool season grasses or weeds established, I think ryegrass is a good investment. I just try to manage it so that I don't ever have to seed it again. That includes letting ryegrass mature in the hay meadows before cutting that first cutting. Its amazing how much "free" seeding you can do by feeding first cutting hay in areas where you want to establish ryegrass.

I'm just a coward. Ours will typically go to seed before our spring shredding. We do not bail, plow, disk, or no-till drill our pastures. We do broad cast ryegrass then shred the fields after. The seed cost us $16.50/acher then diesel to broadcast. The shredding is something that I would have done anyway so I don't count that toward the cost of seeding. I've always been to chicken not to plant. Maybe I will cut my seeding rate in half and see how I do. If it does well then I will try to go with out seeding the next year.

I'm looking to broad cast clover next year. Have you ever tried Armadillo Bur or ball? What do you suggest?

 

[Texan]

Ours will typically go to seed before our spring shredding..........Maybe I will cut my seeding rate in half and see how I do.

Let me give you another suggestion based on your statement that your's normally goes to seed anyway. Instead of seeding all of it at half-rate, seed half of your land at full rate and leave half of it with no seeding for a control. That will let you know if there's any visible difference in stand from seeding versus reseeding. I really don't think you'll be able to tell the difference.

I'm looking to broad cast clover next year. Have you ever tried Armadillo Bur or ball? What do you suggest?

Tod, I've never tried those. I have tried the Arrowleafs, crimson and white. If I were going to seed any more clover, it would be a white clover, without a doubt. Simply for its reseeding behavior. I have some that is still trying to grow and put on a seedhead in early July every year. No matter how hard you use it, it keeps on trying to be reproductive. Granted the others will provide a little more dry matter, and if I were going to seed it every year, I would probably use a crimson. But for me, the crimson is too finicky when it comes to reseeding management. The Arrows are overrated on dry matter because too much of it is stem, in my opinion.

 

[sidney411]

I have a question about broadcasting rye grass. We no-till drilled about 20 acres of gulf rye grass. I hand threw seed in a few small areas that had washed out and those areas are twice as tall then the pastures I drilled. No catlte have been on either area yet. Why isn't the drilled seed coming up like the hand thrown?

 

[Tod Dague]

I have a question about broadcasting rye grass. We no-till drilled about 20 acres of gulf rye grass. I hand threw seed in a few small areas that had washed out and those areas are twice as tall then the pastures I drilled. No catlte have been on either area yet. Why isn't the drilled seed coming up like the hand thrown?

When you drill it you have to be sure not to brill to deep. Ryegrass just has to make contact with the soil.

 

[sidney411]

We drilled it in 1st week of this month. So, would rye grass do better not put in with a drill? Wouldn't the critters eat a lot of the seeds?

 

[txag]

We drilled it in 1st week of this month. So, would rye grass do better not put in with a drill? Wouldn't the critters eat a lot of the seeds?

sid,

typically w/ryegrass it will come up faster by broadcasting but you'll get a better stand by drilling.

 

[dun]

We drilled it in 1st week of this month. So, would rye grass do better not put in with a drill? Wouldn't the critters eat a lot of the seeds?

sid,

typically w/ryegrass it will come up faster by broadcasting but you'll get a better stand by drilling.

And use less seed in the bargain.

dun

 

[bolsen]

I have had way better luck with our rye grass bye jsut simply broadcasting then drilling. holds up stronger and tends to have a higher protien level then when it is drilled many times. Im sure there are instenses when this is oposite but thats what i've found to be true in most cases.

 

[Campground Cattle]

Hey Texan do you plant anything for winter grazing or have a volunteer cool season grass that comes up? Just curious because you stated that Ryegrass was an expensive feed. I plant a lot of ryegrass because it is the cheapest way that I know of. That is a cost that I would like to cut if possible.

Tod, I just try to let my ryegrass go to seed every year. I seeded some a few years ago and I think it ended up costing 60 or 70 dollars an acre. That's with attributing the full fertilizer cost to the ryegrass establishment and none to residual. To me, that's an expensive feed. But, some people say I'm a tightwad, so I guess you have to put everything in perspective. ;-)

However, if you have a place where you don't already have cool season grasses or weeds established, I think ryegrass is a good investment. I just try to manage it so that I don't ever have to seed it again. That includes letting ryegrass mature in the hay meadows before cutting that first cutting. Its amazing how much "free" seeding you can do by feeding first cutting hay in areas where you want to establish ryegrass.

I'm just a coward. Ours will typically go to seed before our spring shredding. We do not bail, plow, disk, or no-till drill our pastures. We do broad cast ryegrass then shred the fields after. The seed cost us $16.50/acher then diesel to broadcast. The shredding is something that I would have done anyway so I don't count that toward the cost of seeding. I've always been to chicken not to plant. Maybe I will cut my seeding rate in half and see how I do. If it does well then I will try to go with out seeding the next year.

I'm looking to broad cast clover next year. Have you ever tried Armadillo Bur or ball? What do you suggest?

Tod if you spray your pastures with 2-4D Crimson is a good choice to plant due to cost. Arrowleaf and S-1 white Dutch. Personally I think the S-1 is the best due to it tolerates wet and dry areas. Crimson and Arrowleaf don't like to have wet feet as much as S-1. We plant Crimson every year figure it cost 8 bucks an acre we getting feed and fertilize at the same time. Todd we are pretty close but Craig might have some good info as he central Texas also.

 

[Tod Dague]

Hey Texan do you plant anything for winter grazing or have a volunteer cool season grass that comes up? Just curious because you stated that Ryegrass was an expensive feed. I plant a lot of ryegrass because it is the cheapest way that I know of. That is a cost that I would like to cut if possible.

Tod, I just try to let my ryegrass go to seed every year. I seeded some a few years ago and I think it ended up costing 60 or 70 dollars an acre. That's with attributing the full fertilizer cost to the ryegrass establishment and none to residual. To me, that's an expensive feed. But, some people say I'm a tightwad, so I guess you have to put everything in perspective. ;-)

However, if you have a place where you don't already have cool season grasses or weeds established, I think ryegrass is a good investment. I just try to manage it so that I don't ever have to seed it again. That includes letting ryegrass mature in the hay meadows before cutting that first cutting. Its amazing how much "free" seeding you can do by feeding first cutting hay in areas where you want to establish ryegrass.

I'm just a coward. Ours will typically go to seed before our spring shredding. We do not bail, plow, disk, or no-till drill our pastures. We do broad cast ryegrass then shred the fields after. The seed cost us $16.50/acher then diesel to broadcast. The shredding is something that I would have done anyway so I don't count that toward the cost of seeding. I've always been to chicken not to plant. Maybe I will cut my seeding rate in half and see how I do. If it does well then I will try to go with out seeding the next year.

I'm looking to broad cast clover next year. Have you ever tried Armadillo Bur or ball? What do you suggest?

Tod if you spray your pastures with 2-4D Crimson is a good choice to plant due to cost. Arrowleaf and S-1 white Dutch. Personally I think the S-1 is the best due to it tolerates wet and dry areas. Crimson and Arrowleaf don't like to have wet feet as much as S-1. We plant Crimson every year figure it cost 8 bucks an acre we getting feed and fertilize at the same time. Todd we are pretty close but Craig might have some good info as he central Texas also.

Thanks. We do not use any thing on our pastures except the occasional fertilizer application. We have plenty of weeds and could probably increase our stocking rate but hate to use to many chemicals. I may try the S-1 White. You and Texan seem to follow the same line on that.