Good idea on those troughs. Do they knock over or move those troughs around? Do the nails or screws rust out from weather or salty feeds? I've gone to all concrete troughs but a friend builds them so I have easy acces to them.
Mine are low and wide so are never knocked over. I put mine together with lag bolts so the wood will be gone before the bolts are. I'm sure I'd really like concrete, but these are fast to make and cheap, so that's what I have.Good idea on those troughs. Do they knock over or move those troughs around? Do the nails or screws rust out from weather or salty feeds? I've gone to all concrete troughs but a friend builds them so I have easy acces to them.
What's your process on developing these bulls?? I've got 4 10 month old bulls I need to start. ThanksYou don't need anything too flash and expensive for bunks, those blue plastic 205 litre drums cut lengthwise, I use the angle grinder with the thin metal cutting disc to do it and then bolt 2 ends together. I use these for weaning my calves and they work well. The bulls I am developing will graduate to a proper trough or controlled feeder in a couple of weeks. The heifers I retain will get a grain mix in these blue troughs out in whichever paddock they are in during winter. The advantage of these is their portability, easy to throw in the back of the UTV and move to the next paddock. The colour is distinctive and they will always remember them, just pick one up and drag along and call them and they come running.
Ken
Mine are similar although I am still using penta treated uprights. I have found the feeding floor of the bunk will last much
Just curious, do you feed 8% more feed to account for the loss over cracked corn?Lucky - not saying it is "better" in all cases. NY is a dairy state. They have corn ground (pulverized). You cannot find a mill that will actually just CRACK the corn. It is a product that blows away if you feed outdoors. "Generally" WSC is cheaper than having any kind of processing done to the corn.
And, yes, if you are dealing with any kind of "powder" with your cracked corn, the calves can get sick with the powder plugging their fillii (fingers in their stomach). Calves LIKE large particles to eat - like WSC and pellets. They don't like fine ground anything.
When I lived in Kansas, we actually could get cracked corn - no powder - but it cost more.
Most people shy away from WSC because they can SEE the corn in their manure. Cracked corn is there also, just doesn't show up as easily.
When my son was raising Boer goats for 4H he had one goat that would not touch any corn with powder in it, we would have to sift out the powder.Lucky - not saying it is "better" in all cases. NY is a dairy state. They have corn ground (pulverized). You cannot find a mill that will actually just CRACK the corn. It is a product that blows away if you feed outdoors. "Generally" WSC is cheaper than having any kind of processing done to the corn.
And, yes, if you are dealing with any kind of "powder" with your cracked corn, the calves can get sick with the powder plugging their fillii (fingers in their stomach). Calves LIKE large particles to eat - like WSC and pellets. They don't like fine ground anything.
When I lived in Kansas, we actually could get cracked corn - no powder - but it cost more.
Most people shy away from WSC because they can SEE the corn in their manure. Cracked corn is there also, just doesn't show up as easily.
No that's not necessary. To simplify it all Jeanne is pointing out is that the amount of whole corn that passed thru undigested is so minimal it's not worth the extra expense to pay for cracked corn.Just curious, do you feed 8% more feed to account for the loss over cracked corn?
I feed cake after weaning after I get them started on grass hay. Cake is 23-28% protein and some fat, so if you have alfalfa, they probably don't need cake. Oats and corn is what I go with to add energy to the ration if feeding alfalfa. They only need 3-4# of corn and oats to give them a little extra kick without getting too fleshy. If selling backgrounded calves through the sale barn, you don't want them to be fleshy or the price goes down and you've spent good money getting them fleshy only to take a hit on price.I was talking with dad today and he said when he was working for Warren Livestock in the 60's they fed cake to their calves. I guess they loved the stuff. Would cake be a good option, although I am betting it would be more expensive than corn.
I don't feed during the months we could get rain, so it was more important to make the trough wide enough to accept a standard size aluminum scoop (grain) shovel to get the snow out. The rest of the year they spend upside down. Always interesting the role geography and climate play in everyday designs.Mine are similar although I am still using penta treated uprights. I have found the feeding floor of the bunk will last much
longer if I drill a 1/2 in hole in each corner to let the rain water out to keep the wood from becoming water logged and thus
decaying. I like the tire idea for a base. Thanks for the photo LVR
I implant all my calves at first work and all of then again at weaning except the heifers I am retaining. I have kept a few heifers that were implanted twice and they didn't seem to have any issues. The bred on time and calved normally.Do you all implant the heifers also?
I had a small patch of lucerne (alfalfa) that I tried on a number of occaisions to drill some summer grasses into it and another time some winter oats and rye. All attempts failed, the seed just didn't want to germinate. There is a word for that but just can't think of it at the moment, ali something maybe someone can help.All my hay I have at the moment is alfalfa. I do have about 15 acres that is thinning, and I have been thinking of no-tilling in some tall fescue into it.