The Renovation Blues

[BlondeD]

Returned to the cattle biz after a 15 year lay off due to demanding job. Now back but still not retired..(I wish). Was always stretched thin..!! The guy renting the acreage left me 18 months ago with a mess....(90 acres here in West TN)...of out- of- control weeds. Spent last year cleaning up dead trees and low hanging limbs, dug out an old pond, getting some handle on the weed issues with initial spraying...2-4 D, Pasture Gard and Cimarron in places. Of course, the clover was the first to go!! But the epidemic of horse nettle, tall ironweed, perilla mint and woolly croton was too much. In year two, I'm making advances...the pastures are mostly old fescue and moderate orchardgrass with bermuda underneath. I'm not wanting to jump too quick with putting any clovers back as the successive waves of weeds seem ready to offer new challenges. Can't totally get rid of the fescue either as it's an old rolling hill farm and bare spots will wash easily if left open. My stocking numbers are low so no big pressure there......especially as retirement is not close and my hours are still limited.
Any thoughts/inputs appreciated. BlondeD :help: :cboy:

 

[TennesseeTuxedo]

Returned to the cattle biz after a 15 year lay off due to demanding job. Now back but still not retired..(I wish). Was always stretched thin..!! The guy renting the acreage left me 18 months ago with a mess....(90 acres here in West TN)...of out- of- control weeds. Spent last year cleaning up dead trees and low hanging limbs, dug out an old pond, getting some handle on the weed issues with initial spraying...2-4 D, Pasture Gard and Cimarron in places. Of course, the clover was the first to go!! But the epidemic of horse nettle, tall ironweed, perilla mint and woolly croton was too much. In year two, I'm making advances...the pastures are mostly old fescue and moderate orchardgrass with bermuda underneath. I'm not wanting to jump too quick with putting any clovers back as the successive waves of weeds seem ready to offer new challenges. Can't totally get rid of the fescue either as it's an old rolling hill farm and bare spots will wash easily if left open. My stocking numbers are low so no big pressure there......especially as retirement is not close and my hours are still limited.
Any thoughts/inputs appreciated. BlondeD :help: :cboy:

You sound like you know what you're doing so I'll just say :welcome: to the forum!

 

[BlondeD]

Thanks for the welcome.!!! Always like your area of the state too. Things here are progressing on the weed front, just would appreciate any thoughts on when to get the clover seeded back. I'm probably looking at next year at the earliest the way the weeds keep reappearing. Also trying Milestone on the horse nettle. Any problems anyone's had???? And the price on that stuff....wow wow........make sure I don't spill a drop. I've leaned towards ladino clovers in the past.....any new varities out there that work well in this area..???
Well, I'm off to tackle some heavy Johnson grass infestation where the muck from the pond clean out was carried over the hilltop and spread out.....I'm sure I'm catching up....ha

 

[bird dog]

Are there cows on it now? Sometimes its best to put some on and let them thin it out then kill what they don't eat. I'm sure they would help you with the Johnson grass.

 

[BC]

We can't get Milestone anymore, but can get GrazonNext HL (aminopylarid +2,4-D are the active ingredients). Does a good job on horsenettle. Get your weeds under control and then add the clover back in the mix.

 

[ddd75]

i'd throw a heavy stocking rate on it, daily moves, make them trample what they don't eat. put the waterer and mineral in the worst weed areas.

you'll have beautiful grass in no time.

 

[rollinhills]

Not sure but I think you're clover will come back on it's own. Given a little time.

 

[jehosofat]

Clover will probably make a comeback. Next year you can spray with Butyrac or 2 4 DB. Those products will kill broadleaf weeds, but won't kill clover.

 

[BlondeD]

thanks.....I was set up years ago for intensive grazing of sorts and know the value of letting the herd get in there and mow it down....then rest. Just don't have the numbers back up yet nor the time to really manage a good number of mama cows.
Was up to 30 years ago, and had my system going. But not now. Is Milestone limited in Tx..??? It costs a small bundle here in Tn......I just ordered a 2 1/2 gallon jug.....almost $900. Grazon etc is not available here as cotton crops are in the area.......although it's been down so low in growers in my area.

 

[Texasmark]

I find that if you have a couple of years to wait on the results, mowing will work really well. I only put out chemicals when I have to (don't like to worry about any potential liability...never can figure what the wind will do when I'm at the field ready to apply) and when I was leasing land, usually get it like you describe yours, I run the shredder over it and the second year things are greatly improved and third year, no weed problem. One thing for sure, no shredder, Cedar (Junipers) will take over followed by Locust.

Thing that upsets this is if you put any steel in the ground. Unbelieveable to me how weed seeds can remain dormant for "centuries", roll them over and expose them to the elements and wala....weed infestation.

 

[BC]

I find that if you have a couple of years to wait on the results, mowing will work really well. I only put out chemicals when I have to (don't like to worry about any potential liability...never can figure what the wind will do when I'm at the field ready to apply) and when I was leasing land, usually get it like you describe yours, I run the shredder over it and the second year things are greatly improved and third year, no weed problem. One thing for sure, no shredder, Cedar (Junipers) will take over followed by Locust.

Thing that upsets this is if you put any steel in the ground. Unbelieveable to me how weed seeds can remain dormant for "centuries", roll them over and expose them to the elements and wala....weed infestation.

He said in original post that horsenettle was his major problem. It is a perennial. My experience with perennials is that mowing is not very effective. Besides horsenettle can be toxic to cattle.

https://foragefax.tamu.edu/2013/06/07/w ... se-nettle/

 

[Texasmark]

What I'm talking about has large rough looking leaves, 3-4 inches dia. with spikes sticking out all over them....that's what gets you. Has little yellow flowers (size of a dime) which are blooming right now. Stem has the little spikes on it too. Mowing runs it off for me. Neighbor across the street bought the place that had it all over since the PO had it leased to a cattle operation who never mowed. Everywhere he has mowed it's has disappeared.

 

[BC]

https://agrilifecdn.tamu.edu/foragefax/ ... 348441.jpg

Is this what you are talking about?

 

[BlondeD]

......It's a tough little weed. I can mow it down to 4-5 inches and it will pop out blooms and try to set those seed pods quick. I've had to be more determined and mow a lot the past year. This spring though, the population was really heavy....100-200 of the weeds in a 20 x 20 foot square in several spots. Thankfully, the Milestone has helped and with a return to more timely mowing, I'll make progress. Next on the list will be perilla mint, which is growing in the shady areas where I can't get the mower under trees, etc I think in Tennessee it is the #1 cause of cattle poisoning.

 

[BlondeD]

.....Asking for thoughts on seeding in any clovers this fall or early winter. I'm spot spraying now....trying to finish up before August 1 and let any residues from the chemicals fade out. 4 months should be enough (according to labels), but with the heavy weed infestation I've been fighting, I might want to go through another year before putting clovers and $$ back in.
Any thoughts are welcome.......

 

[Kenlofarms]

BlondeD, this is off subject but if you are looking for a new tenant i can be reached at [email protected].

 

[BlondeD]

.....I've got a small herd started back. Will carry on and hopefully retire from my "real" job and have things back on the tracks.....in a few years..??!!! Thanks..

 

[Lazy M]

.....Asking for thoughts on seeding in any clovers this fall or early winter. I'm spot spraying now....trying to finish up before August 1 and let any residues from the chemicals fade out. 4 months should be enough (according to labels), but with the heavy weed infestation I've been fighting, I might want to go through another year before putting clovers and $$ back in.
Any thoughts are welcome.......

Whenever you're ready to reintroduce clover, I'd consider broadcasting some clover seed late winter/early spring and let the freeze/thaw cycle work it into the ground.

 

[BlondeD]

..............Another question/thoughts on this ongoing project. The broad top of the hill above the old pond that received the residue/muck from the clean- out remains a problem. This summer was thick with Johnson grass, horse nettle, goat weed and crab grass. I drill in a summer cover crop early to try and crowd out this stuff and focused on the broadleaf control with sprays. That left the crabgrass, Johnsongrass and many other grassy weeds going into fall. The cows grazed it down close and I mowed the remainder close also and moved the herd to their stockpiled areas. The problem area is almost bare now with only sparse root bundles, etc holding against erosion. I was thinking of drilling in Alfagraze product with RR traits, then continue to hit the emerging weeds throughout the summer with Round-up and/or 2-4 D where needed in spots....??? Then in early fall.....if the weeds are under some "control", re-establish the area in the novel fescues, orchardgrass and clovers. Thoughts......???? And when to start with the alfalfa??? And there will be a soil sample run as soon as we dry out a little. Thanks