Sagging gates?

[flaboy]

Seems no matter how deep or how big I make my gate posts over the years and wet seasons they eventually want to sag. To resolve this problem when I set a new or replace an old gate I drive a short piece of 4x4 at the base of the post on the non-hinged side of the gate. I get the gate level and then drive a 4x4 that I cut a wedge point on one end down beside the latch post one inch above the bottom of the gate. When I close the gate I just lift that one inch up and set the gate end on top of the 4x4. It keeps the gate from pulling on the hinge side post. I use some 16 foot gates and even if the hinge side post don't sag the gate will. This stops all the sag.

 

[Cowdirt]

Flaboy, I use a variation of your idea. I nail, using polebarn nails, a section of 4x4 or scrap piece from the brace pole to the post. It can be placed on the inside of the post or on the side of the post, depending on whether the gates swings through or stops against the post.

 

[MrGale]

Question Guys....I use a through lock that holds the gate up when it is closed that works real good, but what can I do to hold the weight up of the gate when it is open? I keep putting cinderblocks or big honkin rocks on both sides to hold the weight up, but that is a real PITA cause :help: I keep hitting them with the tractor and such....any ideas of a neat way to do this?
many thanks for any ideas. :help:

 

[dun]

Gate viagra maybe?

 

[flaboy]

Question Guys....I use a through lock that holds the gate up when it is closed that works real good, but what can I do to hold the weight up of the gate when it is open? I keep putting cinderblocks or big honkin rocks on both sides to hold the weight up, but that is a real PITA cause :help: I keep hitting them with the tractor and such....any ideas of a neat way to do this?
many thanks for any ideas. :help:

I have a couple 18 foot gates that I put a guy wire from the top of the post the gate is hung on to the very end of the gate to help support it. The trick here is you need a really good gate post. I planted a 14 inch diameter gate post 4 foot and poured several bags of concrete around it at ground level digging a hole around it and filling with concrete.

 

[dun]

If thee post is solid but the gate has drooped at thew far end I use a turnbuckle and piece of cable diagonally from the upper hinge end to the lower opposite end and cinch it up tight. Or, on new gates I just weld a piece of 1/8 x 1 inch strap to and from the same locations.

 

[MrGale]

Thanks guys....the guy wire and turnbuckle sounds like just the thing....how do you attach it to the post, and eyehook and clamp? It souds like the best deal because it can be tightened as the gate wears....I am using 6x6 treated posts to hang the gates, sothe eyescrew should hold up.

 

[MrGale]

gotta remember that these gates open both ways, not like me fergettin to put that in the first time.... :roll: :roll:

 

[dun]

Thanks guys....the guy wire and turnbuckle sounds like just the thing....how do you attach it to the post, and eyehook and clamp? It souds like the best deal because it can be tightened as the gate wears....I am using 6x6 treated posts to hang the gates, sothe eyescrew should hold up.

It's attached directly the the gate. Either just looped around the upright part with the hinge keeping it from sliding down or a large screw eye with a nut just like at the opposite end.

 

[flaboy]

gotta remember that these gates open both ways, not like me fergettin to put that in the first time.... :roll: :roll:

I use a large I-bolt at the top. Centered to allow swinging both ways. Use Dun's turnbuckle idea to make adjustments as required.

 

[backhoeboogie]

I weld old or bent cattle panel on the face of the gates. Pull it to the face as I stitch it and it looks flat when you are done. (save all those bent up panels) The gate might bow from the heat of the welding rod so it is best to stiff back it or pre-stress it before you start if you don't want an inch or two bow.

When I build 20 foot gates I use sheep panel (4 by 4 grid, 5 feet tall and 20 feet long) and face it on either 1 1/2 inch tube steel or else 2 inch. The gates never sag. The panel gussets the whole thing. Cheaper than the store bought gates, heavier gauge steel. The 20 foot sheep panels are about $40. 60 feet of tube steel will cost you about $70 are today's prices. Weld one inch pipe to the ends and put 1 inch sucker rod in them for hinges. You can either weld all thread to the sucker rod or really heavy lag bolts if you use telephone poles.

If you have a 16 foot gate you can buy "utility" panels in lieu of sheep panel. It is essentially the same thing in a 16 foot length.

 

[pdfangus]

put a wheel on the free end.

we have done several and they work pretty well.

 

[jcummins]

Gate viagra maybe?

Dun, where can I get some of that?

 

[grand chaser09]

a good strong brace will keep the gate from saggin. we've never had any of our gates sag and we live in sw fl. all of our fences made it through charlie too. didn't have to patch a thing.

 

[novatech]

Normally a gate will hang on a set of corner posts. If the are braced diagonally both ways they should not sag. If the gate is in a fence line then posts long enough to clear anything that passes under should be used with a double wire at top or board nailed to both sides. For the gate open position an earth screw anchor on the opposite side can be used. A turnbucle can be installed along with this to adjust if needed.
If the gate itself is sagging go with the other ideas.
My favorite type of gate is the bump gate found in the back areas in West Texas.

 

[dun]

a good strong brace will keep the gate from saggin. we've never had any of our gates sag and we live in sw fl. all of our fences made it through charlie too. didn't have to patch a thing.

There's a difference between a sagging gate and a sagging gate post. The later is an installation problem the former is a design/age issue.

 

[grand chaser09]

oh my bad! i read it wrong!! oops.