Rolling high tensile

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SmokinM

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One of the many tasks on my list is replacing the last of my perimeter HT fence with fixed knot woven wire. How is the best way to wind up what is there off the posts? I have no interest in reusing it just want to ball it up and stuff it in something next time I hit the scrap yard.

I have a skid loader with auger attachment if that helps any. I am thinking fabbing up some sort of disposable spool for that and when it gets full scrap it all. Any other ideas? Thanks.
 
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SmokinM

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Thought about the spin Jenny but all told this could be about 10k‘ of wire.

When you cut it in lengths over about 3’ it recoils itself into a big old cluster of a knot that resembles a run over slinky.
 

Nick Wagner

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Thought about the spin Jenny but all told this could be about 10k‘ of wire.

When you cut it in lengths over about 3’ it recoils itself into a big old cluster of a knot that resembles a run over slinky.
I made a wire winder using a large wooden spool and an old two wheeled trailer. I welded brackets on a shaft to bolt the spool to it, and drove it with a pto shaft off an auger. It wound faster than I liked, but we pulled half mile lengths of wire to the trailer. Worked better than I thought it would.
 
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SmokinM

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Something like what you describe is what I am thinking. The nice thing about the hydraulic auger is you can make it spin as slow as you want and it is much slower than a pto shaft. Finding the spool is the tricky part. Thanks for the input.
 

callmefence

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Something like what you describe is what I am thinking. The nice thing about the hydraulic auger is you can make it spin as slow as you want and it is much slower than a pto shaft. Finding the spool is the tricky part. Thanks for the input.
All you need is a piece of pipe that fits over the output shaft. Blow a hole for a pin to attach. Blow a couple more holes midway down to start stick wire through. Stick the end of the pipe in the ground like it's a auger and your about to dig a hole and spin.
Be careful.
Usually taking out old fence means brush and lots of old wood post and staples. We charge enough to haul that crap off most opt to pile on the property. We cut the wire every couple hundred feet. Shear the brush and wood post and roll it up with a grapple and pile it. It then can be burned and the wire cleaned up after it's burned. You do have to have enough brush in it to burn good for this to work.
 

callmefence

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Something like what you describe is what I am thinking. The nice thing about the hydraulic auger is you can make it spin as slow as you want and it is much slower than a pto shaft. Finding the spool is the tricky part. Thanks for the input.
All you need is a piece of pipe that fits over the output shaft. Blow a hole for a pin to attach. Blow a couple more holes midway down to start stick wire through. Stick the end of the pipe in the ground like it's a auger and your about to dig a hole and spin.
Be careful.
Usually taking out old fence means brush and lots of old wood post and staples. We charge enough to haul that crap off most opt to pile on the property. We cut the wire every couple hundred feet. Shear the brush and wood post and roll it up with a grapple and pile it. It then can be burned and the wire cleaned up after it's burned. You do have to have enough brush in it to burn good for this to work.
Oh... good on you for building a proper fence around your place.
 
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SmokinM

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Thanks for chiming in Fence. I have done miles of woven and barbed wire like you describe with the ball, burn and usually bury method. This fence is fairly clean and posts are in good shape but HT is marginally more useful than tits on a boar hog IMO when it comes to keeping in calves and neighbors cows out. I will give that a shot. Do you do one strand at a time or roll all 4-5? All the fence is broke up in couple hundred ft. sections. I don’t know why but they terminated at every corner and did jumper wires. Just another reason it needs to come out.
 

bird dog

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Fence, when you do this does the wire roll up tight? It looks like you would have to have someone holding the end or a big weight or something tied to it to keep it from back lashing.
 

farmguy

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I am not fence but if this is for me I will answer. We have rolled up various lengths of wire. Up to close to 1/2 mile. Yes the last 100 feet or so it can flop. All we do was simply hold onto the wire the last couple hundred feet. If I had no help one could put a little weight on the end. I have even simply put my foot on the wire as it enters the coil to give it resistance.
 

RDFF

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Kencove sells a "rewind jenny"... but they also have their very good quality "Kencove Spinning Jenny with Brake" and a "Rewind Hoop", which I have, and like very much. Very well built, out of 1" square tubing. Price is reasonable too. Maybe if you're not planning on installing any HT wire after you get done with your "take-up" job, you can resell the jenny... You should be able to recover at least 50% of your investment in it I would think, unless you abuse it.

FYI, HT electric is ALL I install anymore... to each his own.

Spinning Jennies (kencove.com)



Kencove Spinning Jenny with Brake
Adjustable brake to control overspin
Accommodates most coil diameters
Top of Form​

$99.75
Bottom of Form​
Rewind Hoop
Use with Kencove (TSJHH) or Kiwi (TSJK) Jennies
Top of Form​

$55.50

Out of stock
Bottom of Form​


Rewind Jenny
Allows efficient wire winding without the need to bend over
Easily attaches to fence posts
Rewinds wire tightly and neatly so it can be reused
Quick-release rotor for easy coil removal
Top of Form​

$390.00
Bottom of Form​
.
 

Nesikep

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I like HT as well, but it needs darned good anchors!

I have a rewind jenny that we got for rolling up drip line, it's not fast but it works alright.

Do you have a bunch of old rims around? that could be something to spool onto and discard
 

callmefence

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Fence, when you do this does the wire roll up tight? It looks like you would have to have someone holding the end or a big weight or something tied to it to keep it from back lashing.
Yes you need something to keep it taught. Generally we are dealing with net wire or several strands of barb. The wieght of the wire and friction on the ground is sufficient. Going to throw it all away anyways.
On a smooth high tensile wire you would absolutely need a " anchor" on the end.
 

callmefence

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Fence, when you do this does the wire roll up tight? It looks like you would have to have someone holding the end or a big weight or something tied to it to keep it from back lashing.
Yes you need something to keep it taught. Generally we are dealing with net wire or several strands of barb. The wieght of the wire and friction on the ground is sufficient. Going to throw it all away anyways.
On a smooth high tensile wire you would absolutely need a " anchor" on the end
Same. I will never put up woven wire again.
You've never had a net fence built right.
 

simme

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Same. I will never put up woven wire again.

You've never had a net fence built right.
Everyone has their prospective based on their experience. Electric HT is strong, but an animal can run through it. Also requires regular maintenance - weeds and grass and vines shorting it out, insulators, lightning damage, electric outages.

Old style hinge (wrapped) joint net wire will stretch and won't be functional soon after it goes up. Don't use that style. Fixed knot HT net wire is best for me. The advantages of HT wire in that it is strong and does not stretch. The vertical HT wires every 3, 6 or 12 inches tied to each horizontal strand makes it very strong in the vertical direction, maintains a fixed spacing between the horizontals and resists being pushed down like an accordion like the old hinge joint woven wire. HT fixed knot is like adding a steel stay every few inches to a multi strand HT wire fence - allowing you to increase the distance between posts.
 

callmefence

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Everyone has their prospective based on their experience. Electric HT is strong, but an animal can run through it. Also requires regular maintenance - weeds and grass and vines shorting it out, insulators, lightning damage, electric outages.

Old style hinge (wrapped) joint net wire will stretch and won't be functional soon after it goes up. Don't use that style. Fixed knot HT net wire is best for me. The advantages of HT wire in that it is strong and does not stretch. The vertical HT wires every 3, 6 or 12 inches tied to each horizontal strand makes it very strong in the vertical direction, maintains a fixed spacing between the horizontals and resists being pushed down like an accordion like the old hinge joint woven wire. HT fixed knot is like adding a steel stay every few inches to a multi strand HT wire fence - allowing you to increase the distance between posts.
You want a job..... that was spot on.
 
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