Red tip clover

[Mbell97]

Hey guys I have a question about red tip clover. I'm looking to plant a few acres of it this year in hopes that it will be stable next spring when my dad and buy our first few calves. Right now we have various types grasses but nothing overwhelming. Any advice on planting this type of clover opposed to planting something else? I live in north tx near the red river. Thanks guys love the forum!!!!

 

[agmantoo]

you need to post your location by growing zone (USDA Hardiness Zone)

 

[Mbell97]

According to the hardiness zone I am in the 5-10 F zone. Not sure what that means. I talked to a neighbor and he told me our land is pretty sandy. Will red tip clover do ok with this type of information?thx a lot!!!!!

 

[agmantoo]

Here is a chart that will let you compare various clovers.
http://www.mbsseed.com/planting%20chart.htm

My thoughts would be the Ladino clover group and it will need to be planted in the Fall or frost seeded in the Spring of 2011. Your cold season clovers will endure longer in most situations. If you want pretty then consider Crimson. A mixture of various clover has some advantages also. I have Arrowleaf, Alice, Alyce, Crimson at this time. I plan on trying Ball clover this Fall . I like medics also for ground that is lacking in nutrients.

 

[Mbell97]

Thanks great website! I got a hold of the farm and ranch agency in my county and they said clover wouldn't grow very well on my land (they knew exactly where my place was) and the recommended going with straight Bermuda grass. 6-8lbs per acre in combo with10-20-10 fertilizer. My questionis how much fertilizer should I put out with the seed 100lb an acre, 200lb an acre???? Thoughts?? Thanks!!

 

[1982vett]

Thanks great website! I got a hold of the farm and ranch agency in my county and they said clover wouldn't grow very well on my land (they knew exactly where my place was) and the recommended going with straight Bermuda grass. 6-8lbs per acre in combo with10-20-10 fertilizer. My questionis how much fertilizer should I put out with the seed 100lb an acre, 200lb an acre???? Thoughts?? Thanks!!

Soil test is the only way to know for sure. County extension office will have instuctions how to take samples.

Or you can use TAMU.
http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/webpages/forms.html

 

[agmantoo]

Thanks great website! I got a hold of the farm and ranch agency in my county and they said clover wouldn't grow very well on my land (they knew exactly where my place was) and the recommended going with straight Bermuda grass. 6-8lbs per acre in combo with10-20-10 fertilizer. My questionis how much fertilizer should I put out with the seed 100lb an acre, 200lb an acre???? Thoughts?? Thanks!!

If it were me I would read this article and do some rethinking on adding some legumes to the Bermuda. This article has some age on it and if the price increase in fertilizer was entered into the calculations the results would look even better. It seems a cheap experiment to see if you can get some nearly free nitrogen. Possibly someone at this site that lives in your immediate area has experience in this exercise. http://www.noble.org/Ag/Forage/Nitrogen ... /Index.htm Let me review with you what the extension agent here tells me will not work. I successfully do the opposite profitably.

1 I cannot calve year round....too hot in August calves will die
2 Cannot run the herd as one unit...replacement heifer calves need to be weaned plus separated from bull
3 Need more bulls...too many females for male to accomodate
3 Cannot raise cattle on endophyte infected grass
4 Must apply commercial fertilizer to maintain forage
5 must worm the herd at least every 12 months
6 must make additional magnesium available to prevent bloat

 

[dun]

Thanks great website! I got a hold of the farm and ranch agency in my county and they said clover wouldn't grow very well on my land (they knew exactly where my place was) and the recommended going with straight Bermuda grass. 6-8lbs per acre in combo with10-20-10 fertilizer. My questionis how much fertilizer should I put out with the seed 100lb an acre, 200lb an acre???? Thoughts?? Thanks!!

If it were me I would read this article and do some rethinking on adding some legumes to the Bermuda. This article has some age on it and if the price increase in fertilizer was entered into the calculations the results would look even better. It seems a cheap experiment to see if you can get some nearly free nitrogen. Possibly someone at this site that lives in your immediate area has experience in this exercise. http://www.noble.org/Ag/Forage/Nitrogen ... /Index.htm Let me review with you what the extension agent here tells me will not work. I successfully do the opposite profitably.

1 I cannot calve year round....too hot in August calves will die
2 Cannot run the herd as one unit...replacement heifer calves need to be weaned plus separated from bull
3 Need more bulls...too many females for male to accomodate
3 Cannot raise cattle on endophyte infected grass
4 Must apply commercial fertilizer to maintain forage
5 must worm the herd at least every 12 months
6 must make additional magnesium available to prevent bloat

1. Our problem with august calving is flys. By having a concentrated calving season you have a more uniform calf crop
2. If you don;t want early maturing heifers calving way before 2 the bull needs be kept from them or they need a shot of lute at weaning.
3. It's a challenge but if it wasn;t for high endophyte fescue there woudln;t be any cows in southern MO
4. Unless it's hayed the loss of fertility is negligible
5. Even with rotational grazing worming helps
6. Magnesium has nothing to do with bloat. Grass tetany is the problem during the spring flush.
Sounds like your extension guys wouldn;t make it in the Ozarks.