When I was raising livestock, the genetics advisor for our association gave us advice on picking maternal sires that is exactly the opposite of what's usually said. He had a lot of experience as a farm boy who got a PhD, had done much research in the lab and field, and became head of Ohio State's livestock program. He said:
Pick your prospects on paper FIRST, looking at EPDs and performance records, and then go down to the barn and see which one you can live with.
Note how this advice implies that the top maternal sire might not look so flashy. Appearance is highly heritable and easy—balancing economically important traits is not. People have stacked size and thickness for eons. As was noted above, many hot sires, and I'd say most, are not balanced in terms of economically important traits like heifer fertility, calving ease, maintenance cost, and even meat quality.
For an outlier who has bucked this trend for decades, go online and peruse the philosophy and sale catalogs of Beckton Red Angus.