New Tractor ?

[SJB]

I suggest 65+ hp . We have a 45hp that is to small for most real jobs. For a do everything tractor I would want 4wd with a loader. For a automatic transmission deere has the ivt but sure how small they go. I see no problem with used just have someone look it over well. I would stick with one of big 3 for parts and service Deere, Kubota or case/new Holland. Something you might consider is leasing a new one some crazy good deals right now.

John Deere has some of the 5045E tractors and up for some cheap lease rates going on. The 5045E is like $800 a year with the insurance. They also do the 5055E for around $1300 a year.

Tom not disputing you but would like to know more info on this lease at those prices
$800 a yr won't pay the interest on one of them tractors

I may have to lease 15 or 20 of them and rent them out
I could make a fortune

It's true. I tried to get in on one and couldn't because I wasn't in the dealers home area. It was a promo deal for 2wd tractors, but it was as legit. If I hadn't talked to the dealer myself I wouldn't have believed it. But remember, this is a 50hp 2wd. Not that you can't do a lot of stuff with it, but it's not exactly what most people are looking for.

 

[OklaBrangusBreeder]

For maintaing 80 acres, 45 HP with a 6' brushog is more than adequate.... That is where most of us probably started. If you are like most of us and working on a budget, that is probably the minimum investment you can get by with. Again, new or used depends on the budget you have to work with. You'll just have to weigh that as you start getting to the specifics. Your abilities with a wrench also factors into the new/used decision.

My dad had several smaller tractors (starting with an 8N of course) and on his fourth tractor ended up at a 65 HP Massey Ferguson. Since that point, we've had 2 additional tractors that same HP. A 65 HP tractor will do everything on a farm you need to do. Until you get to that size, you'll probably feel some limitations on what you can do with a smaller tractor. But, if you only intend to farm your 80 acres over the life of this tractor purchase, then the 45 HP model probably makes more sense.

 

[Rafter S]

For maintaing 80 acres, 45 HP with a 6' brushog is more than adequate.... That is where most of us probably started. If you are like most of us and working on a budget, that is probably the minimum investment you can get by with. Again, new or used depends on the budget you have to work with. You'll just have to weigh that as you start getting to the specifics. Your abilities with a wrench also factors into the new/used decision.

My dad had several smaller tractors (starting with an 8N of course) and on his fourth tractor ended up at a 65 HP Massey Ferguson. Since that point, we've had 2 additional tractors that same HP. A 65 HP tractor will do everything on a farm you need to do. Until you get to that size, you'll probably feel some limitations on what you can do with a smaller tractor. But, if you only intend to farm your 80 acres over the life of this tractor purchase, then the 45 HP model probably makes more sense.

OBB,

I agree with everything you said, except the part about the 6’ shredder. A 45 hp tractor will handle at least an 8’ mower, and probably a 10’. As I said in my earlier post here, the secret is to not go too fast.

 

[John SD]

I already got rid of the paper, but a recent CaseIH ad had low hour government entity (state/county/city) lease return tractors for sale that seemed to be a good deal :idea:

Not sure I would go for a lease deal on a tractor, or a vehicle for that matter, unless there is some tax angle on it I'm not aware of :?

 

[OklaBrangusBreeder]

OBB,

I agree with everything you said, except the part about the 6’ shredder. A 45 hp tractor will handle at least an 8’ mower, and probably a 10’. As I said in my earlier post here, the secret is to not go too fast.

Respectfully will have to differ on this point....

I have an 8' Ryno 3-point as well as a 10' JD trail behind. I pull both with my 65 HP Farmtrac. It handles both well. There is NO chance that a 45 HP tractor will pull my 8' Ryno 3 point mower. It is just too heavy of a mower hanging on the back of that size tractor. I actually like using it better on my bigger JD5093 than on my Farmtrac.

Now, I agree that a 45 HP might handle an 8 foot trail behind, but not a 3 pt mower. But again, trail behinds are more expensive than 3 points. For just an 80 acre farm, I would tend to go the lower cost 3 pt mower in a 6 foot (or maybe 7 foot) size personally. For a guy with just 35 acres of clear land, I'm not sure I would spend the money on anything bigger.

(IMHO)

 

[John SD]

OBB,

I agree with everything you said, except the part about the 6’ shredder. A 45 hp tractor will handle at least an 8’ mower, and probably a 10’. As I said in my earlier post here, the secret is to not go too fast.

Respectfully will have to differ on this point....

I have an 8' Ryno 3-point as well as a 10' JD trail behind. I pull both with my 65 HP Farmtrac. It handles both well. There is NO chance that a 45 HP tractor will pull my 8' Ryno 3 point mower. It is just too heavy of a mower hanging on the back of that size tractor. I actually like using it better on my bigger JD5093 than on my Farmtrac.

Now, I agree that a 45 HP might handle an 8 foot trail behind, but not a 3 pt mower. But again, trail behinds are more expensive than 3 points. For just an 80 acre farm, I would tend to go the lower cost 3 pt mower in a 6 foot (or maybe 7 foot) size personally. For a guy with just 35 acres of clear land, I'm not sure I would spend the money on anything bigger.

(IMHO)

:nod: My 6' 3 pt JD 606 mower can be more than enough for a 45hp Fordson Major in heavy growth. A Major only has 6 gears and the bottom hole @ 1.5mph many times is not slow enough. I admit newer tractors likely have the advantage of more gear selectiona along with live PTO.

I don't think I would want a trail mower either. I find there are plenty of places where it is better to back in to mow :idea:

 

[dun]

I don't think I would want a trail mower either. I find there are plenty of places where it is better to back in to mow :idea:

Sometimes I wish my 15 foot batwing was a the point. I have to mow a lot of strange smaller areas with an 8 foot 3pt then get the middle with the batwing

 

[Bigfoot]

Have you considered some of the old iron? Like a 706 IHC, or a 6000 ford. Not 4wd but heavy and stout. I see people do it all the time-----------Have more dollars worth of equipment, than they have dollars worth of cattle. It might be something to consider.

 

[Rafter S]

OBB,

I agree with everything you said, except the part about the 6’ shredder. A 45 hp tractor will handle at least an 8’ mower, and probably a 10’. As I said in my earlier post here, the secret is to not go too fast.

Respectfully will have to differ on this point....

I have an 8' Ryno 3-point as well as a 10' JD trail behind. I pull both with my 65 HP Farmtrac. It handles both well. There is NO chance that a 45 HP tractor will pull my 8' Ryno 3 point mower. It is just too heavy of a mower hanging on the back of that size tractor. I actually like using it better on my bigger JD5093 than on my Farmtrac.

Now, I agree that a 45 HP might handle an 8 foot trail behind, but not a 3 pt mower. But again, trail behinds are more expensive than 3 points. For just an 80 acre farm, I would tend to go the lower cost 3 pt mower in a 6 foot (or maybe 7 foot) size personally. For a guy with just 35 acres of clear land, I'm not sure I would spend the money on anything bigger.

(IMHO)

I meant a pull-behind. I agree that a 3-point would be too heavy.

 

[John SD]

Have you considered some of the old iron? Like a 706 IHC, or a 6000 ford. Not 4wd but heavy and stout. I see people do it all the time-----------Have more dollars worth of equipment, than they have dollars worth of cattle. It might be something to consider.

I'm a Ford tractor man, but not sure I would advise anyone to buy a 6000 The 6000 is the Edsel of the tractor world, not to mention an orphan now, with a reputation of being very troublesome as the first generation of the SOS transmission.

If looking at older Fords, I'd look for a Ford 5000, preferably a gear drive model :idea: 5000 is as bulletproof as any color tractor in their class :2cents:

 

[dun]

Have you considered some of the old iron? Like a 706 IHC, or a 6000 ford. Not 4wd but heavy and stout. I see people do it all the time-----------Have more dollars worth of equipment, than they have dollars worth of cattle. It might be something to consider.

I'm a Ford tractor man, but not sure I would advise anyone to buy a 6000 The 6000 is the Edsel of the tractor world, not to mention an orphan now, with a reputation of being very troublesome as the first generation of the SOS transmission.

If looking at older Fords, I'd look for a Ford 5000, preferably a gear drive model :idea: 5000 is as bulletproof as any color tractor in their class :2cents:

I had a grey market 5000. Crankshaft broke the one time it started right up without half an hour of fiddling with it..

 

[hillbilly beef man]

In order of importance on a tractor 1. Loader 2. 4wd 3. cab. I can do without a cab or 4wd, but not a loader. After I finally got a loader I do not see how I ever got by without one.

 

[WLKRTXRNGR]

I agree, I think with all the projects and unknowns of a new place, a loader would probably be a VERY big plus and a MUST HAVE. I did call the John Deere dealer about leases - he didn't know of any sweet deals and didn't see the logic in it. As far as the older used tractors - I'm not exactly "Mr. Fixit" - I'll leave it at that! So sounds like 50+ HP / 4wd / NH, JD or Kub. New or gently used!

 

[bbirder]

In order of importance on a tractor 1. Loader 2. 4wd 3. cab. I can do without a cab or 4wd, but not a loader. After I finally got a loader I do not see how I ever got by without one.

+++++!

 

[tom4018]

Tom not disputing you but would like to know more info on this lease at those prices
$800 a yr won't pay the interest on one of them tractors

I may have to lease 15 or 20 of them and rent them out
I could make a fortune

Not sure if all states or dealers are doing it, but 2 dealers in my area have. One is still doing it or was a few weeks ago when I found out about it. The 5045E was $795 for one year and 300 hours, at the end of the year you could buy it or return it. That price was with John Deere's required insurance, that tractor is only about 36 PTO HP, the next size up was around $1300-1400. Wish I would have known about it before hay cutting, would have been worth it to me for pulling a rake.

 

[Bigfoot]

Tom not disputing you but would like to know more info on this lease at those prices
$800 a yr won't pay the interest on one of them tractors

I may have to lease 15 or 20 of them and rent them out
I could make a fortune

Not sure if all states or dealers are doing it, but 2 dealers in my area have. One is still doing it or was a few weeks ago when I found out about it. The 5045E was $795 for one year and 300 hours, at the end of the year you could buy it or return it. That price was with John Deere's required insurance, that tractor is only about 36 PTO HP, the next size up was around $1300-1400. Wish I would have known about it before hay cutting, would have been worth it to me for pulling a rake.

Used to be a lot of those little tractors rented to pull tobacco scaffolds.

 

[littletom]

The 5055 and 5045 d are a little cheaper. I got one for the Mexican boys to use in tobacco

 

[Rafter S]

And I see a lot of people buy a box blade to maintain their driveway. I’m likely stepping on some toes here, but a box blade is the wrong piece of equipment for that purpose. Get a blade that you can change angles (I don’t know what they’re called but they’re similar to a large road grader, or maintainer, but with a much smaller blade, generally 5’ or 6’). While it’s more difficult to learn to use than a box blade, you can do a much better job. A road needs to have a crown on it (be higher in the middle and sloping to each side). You can’t do that with a box blade. Also, when a road gets holes in it, you need to be able to cut down to the bottom of the hole, then spread the material back out. Again, can’t do it with a box blade. All you can do with one of them is to drag loose material into the hole, and that won’t hold up. If it sounds like this is a pet peeve of mine, you’re probably right. You may have a paved driveway, or a very short one, so it doesn’t matter anyway.

http://collegestation.craigslist.org/grd/5180824358.html

Here's what I was trying to describe in my clumsy way the other day.

 

[DLD]

In order of importance on a tractor 1. Loader 2. 4wd 3. cab. I can do without a cab or 4wd, but not a loader. After I finally got a loader I do not see how I ever got by without one.

I do agree 110% with this, but remember of those three, the loader is the one thing you can add later (practically anyway). If 4wd and/or a cab is important to you and you feel pretty sure you can afford a loader in the fairly near future, you might consider that.

That said, we have an open station 2wd with a loader (JD 5420) and it does everything we need it to. But, if it had cab I could see us getting a little more pasture mowing done in the summer, and we'd probably use it more (vs. the pickups) to feed hay with in the winter.

 

[JW IN VA]

Every tractor I have is used. Even the ones we bought new. They are all used now.
My new ones that are only a few years old have 5000 hours.

" Everybody farms with a used tractor"-unknown dealer"

I like the older models(70s-90s)that are easier to work on.I don't know how mechanical you are but,i you're like me,you can do maintaining and some parts changing but not all.The newer ones have too many electronics for my liking although some brands still are simpler.
I would keep dealer support at the top of the list.Doesn't help to have Brand "a" when the dealer is 100 miles away or isn't interested in being helpful beyond telling you to bring it in.Stick with one of the major brands,IMHO,for parts availibility.Keep in mind that although there is no Ford,IH,Oliver,Case,etc the parts can be gotten through dealers o succeding brands. In Kubota you have the option of Hydrostatic trans in some models.Might make a good second tractor or the wife.
MFWD is nice.Wish I had one of mine in it.Do you need it?Probably not.Is it a good thing? Could be according to your situation.
I do all my work on my operation without it even in the rare 1-1/2 to 2 foot snows we have had so it can be done.Another option is chains for the rears ,which I would like to try.
Sounds like 50 to 65 hp would do nicely for you.You can pull a10' rotary cutter(bush hog) with one in moderate growth.I'd also reccomend you get a quick detach loader with a 6' bucket and loader forks.You'll wonder how you did anything without it.Cabs are nice but for on/of utility work they aren't.Make SURE you have a ROPS,though.A canopy is good.