Mollasses /fertilizer

[dane12]

since we are getting close to that time of the year again.I just read that mixing in mollasses with liquid fertilizer should make the fertilizer work better. has anyone done this?
I thought mollasses was pretty sticky and would mess up a sprayer?

 

[dun]

Sounds like something the local molasses monger would be touting.

 

[rmcva]

I've never tried Molasses on anything. I've read about it and also watched a program on PBS about the annual Pumpkin contest. Each year all across the country there are gardeners that compete in the big pumpkin contest. They grow some monster pumpkins and use a molasses and water spray that's applied about every week. On that program each contestant said they used it and swore by it. I also read on NAT where some have used sugar. One pound of sugar seems to allow the plant to uptake more nitrogen than normal. One poster said they had applied up to 5 pounds of sugar and that locked up the nitrogen and plants were yellow. So one pound per acre seemed to be the best. More is not always better according to the folks that have tried it. Everything I've read seems to imply the sugar be applied with or right after a nitrogen application.

Here's one thread from NAT.http://u15205752.onlinehome-server....ts=16&highlight=sugar&highlightmode=1#M222316

 

[dane12]

I've never tried Molasses on anything. I've read about it and also watched a program on PBS about the annual Pumpkin contest. Each year all across the country there are gardeners that compete in the big pumpkin contest. They grow some monster pumpkins and use a molasses and water spray that's applied about every week. On that program each contestant said they used it and swore by it. I also read on NAT where some have used sugar. One pound of sugar seems to allow the plant to uptake more nitrogen than normal. One poster said they had applied up to 5 pounds of sugar and that locked up the nitrogen and plants were yellow. So one pound per acre seemed to be the best. More is not always better according to the folks that have tried it. Everything I've read seems to imply the sugar be applied with or right after a nitrogen application.

Here's one thread from NAT.http://u15205752.onlinehome-server....ts=16&highlight=sugar&highlightmode=1#M222316

very interresting thread thank you i think i might try it on a 10acre lot just to see what happens

 

[rmcva]

I've never tried Molasses on anything. I've read about it and also watched a program on PBS about the annual Pumpkin contest. Each year all across the country there are gardeners that compete in the big pumpkin contest. They grow some monster pumpkins and use a molasses and water spray that's applied about every week. On that program each contestant said they used it and swore by it. I also read on NAT where some have used sugar. One pound of sugar seems to allow the plant to uptake more nitrogen than normal. One poster said they had applied up to 5 pounds of sugar and that locked up the nitrogen and plants were yellow. So one pound per acre seemed to be the best. More is not always better according to the folks that have tried it. Everything I've read seems to imply the sugar be applied with or right after a nitrogen application.

Here's one thread from NAT.http://u15205752.onlinehome-server....ts=16&highlight=sugar&highlightmode=1#M222316

very interresting thread thank you i think i might try it on a 10acre lot just to see what happens

If you try some let us know the results. From what I gather it won't take long to see with the eye a difference.

 

[dane12]

0k i will

 

[Bluestem]

I've never tried Molasses on anything. I've read about it and also watched a program on PBS about the annual Pumpkin contest. Each year all across the country there are gardeners that compete in the big pumpkin contest. They grow some monster pumpkins and use a molasses and water spray that's applied about every week. On that program each contestant said they used it and swore by it. I also read on NAT where some have used sugar. One pound of sugar seems to allow the plant to uptake more nitrogen than normal. One poster said they had applied up to 5 pounds of sugar and that locked up the nitrogen and plants were yellow. So one pound per acre seemed to be the best. More is not always better according to the folks that have tried it. Everything I've read seems to imply the sugar be applied with or right after a nitrogen application.

Here's one thread from NAT.http://u15205752.onlinehome-server....ts=16&highlight=sugar&highlightmode=1#M222316

The book quoted is a very good easy read, "Science in Agriculture"
Food for thought- The scholars of the day thought the earth was flat. Those that thought differently were often times executed.
I think you will be happy with the results from the molasses.

 

[TexasBred]

I know nothing about mixing molasses in fertilizer, however, I do know my wife puts down a lot of dried molasses in her little garden and around her flowerers. She's into this organic stuff and listens to the "dirt doctor" Howard Garrett on one of the Dallas radio stations. He's basically a nut but few things work. This may be one of them. Dried molasses has a carrier and it may do as much good as the molasses itself.

 

[Bluestem]

I know nothing about mixing molasses in fertilizer, however, I do know my wife puts down a lot of dried molasses in her little garden and around her flowerers. She's into this organic stuff and listens to the "dirt doctor" Howard Garrett on one of the Dallas radio stations. He's basically a nut but few things work. This may be one of them. Dried molasses has a carrier and it may do as much good as the molasses itself.

Dried molasses works very good. But hard to justify the cost for Ag use. There is probably less than a quart of molasses in the dry molasses bag. At 12.00 to 15.00 per bag, a gallon of liquid molasses looks like a bargain.

 

[dane12]

this is what i am looking at to buy.
Horticultural Molasses 6% Nitrogen - organic about $5.55 a gallon not sure yet how much to spray pr acre yet its a pretty long post you need scoll all the way down to see it all.

ENTIFICATION: HORTICULTURAL MOLASSES

COMPOSITIONAL INFORMATION

Cane Molasses, De-sugared Beet Molasses, Brewers Solubles, Phosphoric Acid, Sulfuric Acid.

PHYSICAL DATA





Odor Molasses

Melting Point NA

PH (50% Solution) 4.2

Specific Gravity 1.35

Appearance Dark Brown Liquid









FIRE AND EXPLOSIVE DATA

Flammability NA

Extinguishing Media NA

Unusual Fire or Explosive Hazard NA





HEALTH HAZARD DATA

Eye Effect Not hazardous on contact

Skin Effect Not hazardous on contact

Carbon dioxide can be produced if product ferments. In sealed tanks, oxygen level can be too low for humans. Always ventilate storage tanks thoroughly before entry.













EMERGENCY AND FIRST AID PROCEDURES

Eye Contact Rinse with water

Skin Contact Rinse with water

Ingestion Not harmful if ingested



SPECIAL PROTECTION INFORMATION

Protective Gloves NA

Stability Stable when stored at normal temperatures

Hazardous Polymerization NA

Hazardous Decomposition Product NA

















































MOLASSES GUARANTEED ANALYSIS

Crude Protein 35%

Nitrogen (5.6%)

Crude Fat 3%

Calcium 0.3%

Phosphorus 1.0%

Potassium 1.7%

Magnesium 0.1%

Sulfur 0.5%

Copper 105 ppm

Cobalt 3 ppm

Iodine 12 ppm

Iron 440 ppm

Manganese 220 ppm

Selenium 2 ppm

Zinc 214 ppm

Vitamin A 40,000 IU/LB

Vitamin D 10,000 IU/LB

Vitamin E 10 IU/LB

Moisture 39%

Sugar 22%



Ingredients

Cane Molasses, Condensed Molasses fermentation solubles from Pine Molasses, Ammonium Polyphosphate, Phosphoric Acid, Vegetable Fat Products, Cotton Seed Oil, Sulfuric Acid, Aluminum Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Sodium Selenium, Copper Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Salt, Ethylenediamine Dihydriodide, Cobalt Sulfate, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin E Supplement, D-Activated Animal Sterol.

The information and recommendations contained herein

 

[TexasBred]

That looks more like an analysis on some of the liquid feeds. At that price you're going to be paying $1,000 a ton so sure hope it works. Hopefully as well the inclusion rate will be very low. Best of luck.

 

[Bluestem]

I agree with TexasBred. Looks like a liquid feed to me. Which is fine. But plain old Blackstrap molasses will work for less money. I've been beat up on this board before over this, but here goes. Your text mentions organic. This product is not organic. If you are trying to get into organic production I would suggest you look else where. Not meaning to step on any toes. But the "organic" word as defined by our rulers is used improperly in most instances.

 

[Red Bull Breeder]

Not trying to hyjack the thread but has any body every heard of or used sea minerals?

 

[TexasBred]

Not trying to hyjack the thread but has any body every heard of or used sea minerals?

Never known anyone using them on cattle. Sounds more like something you might find in a health food store. Probably good stuff but expensive. I've used some kelp meal which is a good source of iodine. Heck all this Texas limestone I suppose is sea mineral as it's full of sea shells. :lol:

 

[Bluestem]

I've used "ocean grown" in the past. It is a liquid. I'm thinking of trying a dry. Here is a link-
http://www.msue.msu.edu/objects/content ... lture.pdf/


Also a good book "Sea Energy Agriculture" by Maynard Murray

 

[Anonymous]

Dane-

I would shop around before buying the molasses blend you described.
I'm with Texas Bred & Blustem- - that looks like a liquid feed blend to me..... an overpriced liquid feed blend!!
The molasses base of that mix is part cane molasses & part desugarized beet molasses- cane molasses will run you about $75-85 / ton and the desugarized beet is around $35/ ton PLUS freight from the factory to your distributor. Please do not be fooled by "organic" labeling either- I can guarantee you that molasses is not "organic"

 

[dane12]

Dane-

I would shop around before buying the molasses blend you described.
I'm with Texas Bred & Blustem- - that looks like a liquid feed blend to me..... an overpriced liquid feed blend!!
The molasses base of that mix is part cane molasses & part desugarized beet molasses- cane molasses will run you about $75-85 / ton and the desugarized beet is around $35/ ton PLUS freight from the factory to your distributor. Please do not be fooled by "organic" labeling either- I can guarantee you that molasses is not "organic"

thank you for the info.I am still in the reseach stage.just trying to find a different/better way to fertilize/get better yield out of my hayfields and pastures.even know organic may or may not be way to go. if organic makes financial sense then i will do it.what is "texas bred&blustem"?

 

[hayray]

I would question trying to do liquid fertilizer anyways, I can't see how you would get the pounds per acre recommended with liquid, unless maybe you are just doing micro-nutrients. Sounds real expensive. If I was you I would find out what the extension agents say because they at least in my state are real matter of fact, they will tell you straight out wheather or not there is any research to support claims or not. In my case they did not have too much good to say about liquid fertilizer, they said at Michigan State that they have never been able to replicate the claims that the fertilizer companies were claiming.

 

[rmcva]

I agree with TexasBred. Looks like a liquid feed to me. Which is fine. But plain old Blackstrap molasses will work for less money. I've been beat up on this board before over this, but here goes. Your text mentions organic. This product is not organic. If you are trying to get into organic production I would suggest you look else where. Not meaning to step on any toes. But the "organic" word as defined by our rulers is used improperly in most instances.

I agree with what you wrote. And as I posted in the beginning I've never tried molasses or sugar. But have read that good old Blackstrap molasses gives the most bang for the buck as an enhancement for the gardeners. If I used either it would only be for an enhancement. I use to buy bulk fertilizer from a couple of brothers/ neighbors. They after years of selling fertilizer went out of business. They then started using liquid fertilizer because it's lower cost or was back then. It's been over 15 years now since they started and I ride by their fields every day on my way to my off farm job. Their fields have steadily gone down hill and with the last two years of harsh drought they have little to nothing left on that dirt. The soil is close to dead now. I'm sure the drought sped this up but from what I've seen, liquid fertilizer can be slow death if used continually for a long term. Nothing will replace the proper levels of NPK but NPK. NPK can be found in waste,manures and byproducts. Some of these are better than commercial fertilizer because of organic matter. Some can be slower release than commercial fertilizer. That can be good or bad depending on what you want to grow.

If you have better than medium levels of P&K you may get by with liquid for a while but those levels will have to be replenished some time. There may be a liquid fertilizer out there that will do that, but I haven't seen it in my area. And if you want tonnage for grass hay or grass it has to have nitrogen of some sort. I firmly believe in using what's at hand to keep PH at the correct level and P&K at the proper level. I use ash and poultry litter to do this but I also use annual soil samples to keep the levels under control. It's more work than calling the fertilizer truck but it's saved my butt up to this point in these dry years. Test, test and test your soil some more if you use alternatives to commercial fertilizer and lime. Slower release can creep up on you if you don't test often.
Even with what I use I still buy and use 34% ammonium nitrate where it's needed. But have cut way back because of the poultry litter. Now all I need is some magic rain. I'll take organic,commercial,byproduct or magic rain. Any will do at this point. :lol:

 

[Red Bull Breeder]

Have been looking at the sea minerials, some people in north Arkansas are selling them for cattle minerials. They have a web site cannot seem to figure out what i done with it, but they cannot sell it in Ark. for a soil supplment because plant board will not certife it. cost 1.50 LB. apply 2LB. per acre as a foliar spray. company is called sea minerials from Arkansas.