john deere balers

[tiger hunter]

would like to hear from john deere round baler owners.the pros and cons just bought a new 469 net/twine.got a good deal $35000.00 cash price.have always ran new holland 660,648,688,br7070 and liked them.can a deere run with them.

 

[skyhightree1]

would like to hear from john deere round baler owners.the pros and cons just bought a new 469 net/twine.got a good deal $35000.00 cash price.have always ran new holland 660,648,688,br7070 and liked them.can a deere run with them.

excuse my silly question... umm shouldn't you ask these types of questions before buying?

 

[10-e-c-dirtfarmer]

would like to hear from john deere round baler owners.the pros and cons just bought a new 469 net/twine.got a good deal $35000.00 cash price.have always ran new holland 660,648,688,br7070 and liked them.can a deere run with them.

35K darn, how much is net? Last week they delivered my neighbors JD 469 with MegaWide Plus pickup, and big wide oversize tires,(they look almost 50% bigger than the tires on my 504N Vermeer) but No Net for 25.5 K

 

[JW IN VA]

I have an older model John Deere but I really like it.

 

[shaz]

Got a 453 4x6 and it's been good. In thick crop I really have to watch my ground speed though.

 

[OklaBrangusBreeder]

I have a JD 467 that we bought almost new.... I like it alot.

It has been a good trouble free baler as long as I don't try to run coveredge net wrap through it. It has to have edge-to-edge to be happy. One summer I tried to run 2 rolls of the coveredge through it and had all sorts of problems and repair bills for a few months. I was pulling my hair out fighting it and finally went back to an old roll of edge-to-edge and it worked fine after that. Have stuck with the edge-to-edge the last two seasons and it hasn't missed a bale.

 

[cfpinz]

I have a JD 467 that we bought almost new.... I like it alot.

It has been a good trouble free baler as long as I don't try to run coveredge net wrap through it. It has to have edge-to-edge to be happy. One summer I tried to run 2 rolls of the coveredge through it and had all sorts of problems and repair bills for a few months. I was pulling my hair out fighting it and finally went back to an old roll of edge-to-edge and it worked fine after that. Have stuck with the edge-to-edge the last two seasons and it hasn't missed a bale.

What type of malfunctions were you having with the Coveredge?

 

[OklaBrangusBreeder]

It was wrapping the wrap around the end of the rubber roller that feeds the wrap off the role into the baler.....

So one side of the bale was not wrapping. It would usually bale a couple bales ragged and then fail to wrap one altogether. I would then have to cut the netwrap and "unspool" it off the rubber roller and then refeed the bale wrap. Didn't like doing that at all....

One time I needed wrap on a weekend when the JD dealership was closed. I bought "non-coveredge" at the local farm store. It went through the baler without problem. The next time I was at John Deere, I bought coveredge and loaded it and I spent all one morning fighting the roller issue. Once I switched back to the farm store non-coveredge role it baled fine. Next time I went to the JD dealer, I bought John Deere edge-to-edge and I've never had a busted bale since. That was two seasons ago....

 

[cfpinz]

Thank you for the explanation. Is the baler rated for CoverEdge and have you ever had a technician look it over?

Any other complaints about the baler? Does it have a tendency to plug in wet hay?

Thanks again.

 

[dun]

I've got a 466 that's fairly old. Replaced an evenolder 535 with it. The 466 is ten times the baler the 535 ways. I've baled some really wet crap with it, stuff that the neighbor figured should be done with a silage baler. Today is the first time it's plugged. The starter roller chain broke in 2 places. Don;t know if the chain broke and it plugged or it plugged and the chain broke.

 

[Gunner]

A friend of mine was having trouble with coveredge on his JD baler. Turned out to be some rough spots on the "fingers" that make the coveredge work. The rough spots were catching the net and carrying to the roller where it caught and wrapped up. He fought it for 2 years before he found someone that had some experience with it. Easy fix once it was pointed out to him. His baler would wrap 5 or 6 bales fine and then mess one up. Since getting it fixed he has not missed a bale.

 

[shaz]

I've got a 466 that's fairly old. Replaced an evenolder 535 with it. The 466 is ten times the baler the 535 ways. I've baled some really wet crap with it, stuff that the neighbor figured should be done with a silage baler. Today is the first time it's plugged. The starter roller chain broke in 2 places. Don;t know if the chain broke and it plugged or it plugged and the chain broke.

What makes the 466 so much better than the 535? Less plugging? Better ground speed? Just curious as I will need to upgrade before long.

 

[dun]

I've got a 466 that's fairly old. Replaced an evenolder 535 with it. The 466 is ten times the baler the 535 ways. I've baled some really wet crap with it, stuff that the neighbor figured should be done with a silage baler. Today is the first time it's plugged. The starter roller chain broke in 2 places. Don;t know if the chain broke and it plugged or it plugged and the chain broke.

What makes the 466 so much better than the 535? Less plugging? Better ground speed? Just curious as I will need to upgrade before long.

Strange you should ask to day of all days. I happened to be talking to the local JD baler guy. He said he hates working on the old 35 balers and has more calls for them thne any others. I hadn;t really noticed but he claims they are more complicated and have more mechanical parts. Plus the net is hydraulic driven vs electric. I know I sure like the 466 better then my old 535 or the neighbors 435 that I used befroe I got the 535.

 

[cfpinz]

Strange you should ask to day of all days. I happened to be talking to the local JD baler guy. He said he hates working on the old 35 balers and has more calls for them thne any others. I hadn;t really noticed but he claims they are more complicated and have more mechanical parts. Plus the net is hydraulic driven vs electric. I know I sure like the 466 better then my old 535 or the neighbors 435 that I used befroe I got the 535.

Next time you see him, would you mind to ask him if there are any appreciable differences between the 466/467/468/469 balers? Specifically the netwrap and monitor systems.

Thanks.

 

[dun]

Strange you should ask to day of all days. I happened to be talking to the local JD baler guy. He said he hates working on the old 35 balers and has more calls for them thne any others. I hadn;t really noticed but he claims they are more complicated and have more mechanical parts. Plus the net is hydraulic driven vs electric. I know I sure like the 466 better then my old 535 or the neighbors 435 that I used befroe I got the 535.

Next time you see him, would you mind to ask him if there are any appreciable differences between the 466/467/468/469 balers? Specifically the netwrap and monitor systems.

Thanks.

I'm sure I'll sleep before I see him again. You know my memory, I won;t remember the question by then.
He's been out in the hay fields doing service calls from daylight to dark, the only reason I saw him this monring was he was in getting parts.
I don;t know what baler he was working on but it seems there is an issue with the kubota m100 (maybe 1000) and the required hydraulic pressure and flow volume to work the baler reliably.

 

[OklaBrangusBreeder]

What makes the 466 so much better than the 535? Less plugging? Better ground speed? Just curious as I will need to upgrade before long.

I had a 535 before my current 467....

* The 535 I had was much more "finicky" about starting a bale. There were times I would choose a specific windrow to start the bale. Once the bale got to a certain diameter, then I could go ahead and bale. The main draw back I saw in that model baler (at least the one I had) was I seem to recall it had a single tie arm for the twine. So you set there and let the thing run for quite a while waiting for it to tie the bale before you could kick the bale out. Seems like you also had to disengage the PTO drive before kicking out the bale. My dad messed that up several times and a busted belt was the result. Seems like it also did not have a bale kicker which meant you had to back up to kick the bale out.

* I think the advantage of the "6" series JD balers was it had double tie arms for the twine which resulted in half the tie time. I think maybe the bale kicker also came standard on the "6" series for the first time so you no longer had to back up to eject the bale. So it tied quicker, ejected easier, and started bales easier than the previous series. Been a while, but I think that is right. I think the "6" series was a good twine baler and a significant step-up from the older "5" series balers.

* I believe the "7" series JD balers introduced net wrap for the first time. My 467 is much better relative to the 535 we had. It never fails to start a bale correctly. It has the mega-wide pick-up with the bale kicker. You don't have to disengage the drive to eject the bale. It has the net wrap which wraps the bale in a fraction of what the twine use to take. I'm really happy with my 467. Even though there are newer balers on the market now, I've never had the urge to trade up because my 467 is dependable still at doing what I ask of it.

I have not kept up with the "8" or "9" series balers as far as what they offer over the "7" series.

 

[dun]

What makes the 466 so much better than the 535? Less plugging? Better ground speed? Just curious as I will need to upgrade before long.

I had a 535 before my current 467....

* The 535 I had was much more "finicky" about starting a bale. There were times I would choose a specific windrow to start the bale. Once the bale got to a certain diameter, then I could go ahead and bale. The main draw back I saw in that model baler (at least the one I had) was I seem to recall it had a single tie arm for the twine. So you set there and let the thing run for quite a while waiting for it to tie the bale before you could kick the bale out. Seems like you also had to disengage the PTO drive before kicking out the bale. My dad messed that up several times and a busted belt was the result. Seems like it also did not have a bale kicker which meant you had to back up to kick the bale out.

* I think the advantage of the "6" series JD balers was it had double tie arms for the twine which resulted in half the tie time. I think maybe the bale kicker also came standard on the "6" series for the first time so you no longer had to back up to eject the bale. So it tied quicker, ejected easier, and started bales easier than the previous series. Been a while, but I think that is right. I think the "6" series was a good twine baler and a significant step-up from the older "5" series balers.

* I believe the "7" series JD balers introduced net wrap for the first time. My 467 is much better relative to the 535 we had. It never fails to start a bale correctly. It has the mega-wide pick-up with the bale kicker. You don't have to disengage the drive to eject the bale. It has the net wrap which wraps the bale in a fraction of what the twine use to take. I'm really happy with my 467. Even though there are newer balers on the market now, I've never had the urge to trade up because my 467 is dependable still at doing what I ask of it.

I have not kept up with the "8" or "9" series balers as far as what they offer over the "7" series.

My 535 had 2 twine arms, a bale kicker and net wrap. So far the only plug I've had with the 466 is when the starter roll chain broke. I have baled some seriously wet hay with it and am well pleased. I'm having to unlearn a couple of things, with the 535 you had to keep moving for a short distance when the net wrap started so that the bale actaully caught the net, with the 466 you have to stop as soon as soon as it wraps. I still back up a short distance when I kick a bale. Doesn;t hurt any to get a running start at the beginning of the bale to get it started. I also had to back off on the bale tighness, could barely get a screw driver poked into the bale let alone a bale spike.

 

[shaz]

Thanks for the info guys. Sounds like you can bale the same amount of hay faster without plugging.

FYI: I work with a lady who bought a 567 silage special new and has complained about to the point of replacing it.