John Deere 350B

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I have an older John Deere 350B track loader that has been parked for years. We are trying to get it started and have drained the old fuel and replaced it. We have also bled the system, but when we try to get it going just when it sounds like it wants to start the batteries (brand new) start to lose juice.

Is there a way to provide direct continuous 12v power to the starter just to get it to fire. We have tried hooking a running vehicle to it, but still, the batteries just don't have the energy to run the starter long enough to get it to crank before they run down.

Note (we can't change the fuel filters until it is running because the lift arms are in the way.)
 
Is the engine turning freely? Is assume it is but had to ask.If not,turning it by hand a complete revolution to see that it isn't stuck would be a good idea.
If you have good battery(ies) in the loader,and a running vehicle doesn't help it,it could be because the jumper cables aren't big enough or have broken down internally and not letting enough amperage through.I ran into this several times.Gave up and ordered a set of 1 gauge jumper cables rated to 800 amps.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will see this.
 
Poor corroded ground wires can be a problem,too. If I replace a ground cable I like to use one as large or larger than original.
Bear in mind your cables from battery to solenoid and ground can break down over time.Also,if you've used a replacement terminal on the cable, as I have many times, they are only supposed to be a temporary solution. :hide: Just sayin' :D
 
The engine seems to turn freely. My thought is that over time, the fuel has drained back in the lines and it is taking some time to get the fresh fuel to the injectors. It was running fine when it was parked.
 
You may be on to something.If you can crack the lines at injectors,you would find out if you are getting fuel.If not,that's probably all.
You could have a stuck injection pump like I have on a 7600 which has been sitting for more years than I care to admit.Also could have an algae buildup from the fuel sitting so long. BioBor JR is a product that I have used and recommend in that situation.If no one carries it where you are it can be ordered from a major online shopping place.It doesn't take a lot but the first time you use it,you should probably use the "shock" dose which is twice the normal.
 
sstterry said:
JMJ Farms said:
Try a gas rag. Way easier on the engine than ether. IMO anyway. Usually works like a charm.

So are you saying put a gas rag in the breather?

Over the breather. Soak it in gas and have someone hold the rag and someone else turn the ignition. Once it cranks you will need to move the rag away a little so it can get some air. Then you may have to move it back closer and so forth. Same concept as ether but no danger of locking it up and works better for me on diesels. I use the same technique on gasoline engines. Especially small engines like lawnmowers, etc. Sometimes it works when nothing else will.
 
Just went through this on a D6. Starter was crapping out. Parked for the winter in October and tried to start it up. Almost started and just got worse and worse till it wouldn't do anuthing.

Starter was a mess, brushes broken and stuck. Swapped the spare in and it started right up.
 
Atimm693 said:
Just went through this on a D6. Starter was crapping out. Parked for the winter in October and tried to start it up. Almost started and just got worse and worse till it wouldn't do anuthing.

Starter was a mess, brushes broken and stuck. Swapped the spare in and it started right up.

We had the same problem with our dozer. Starter would turn the engine but not fast enough to fire it up. Figured it was the batteries so changed them. No joy. Changed the starter and now starts like new.
 
To bleed the fuel system you can put an air compressor nozzle in the fuel tank cap and apply pressure while cracking bleeders and lines loose. This can save a lot of starter cranking.
 
I would try the ether.
Seems like I've changed the filters on mine with the bucket down. But if you need to raise it crack the hydraulic lines and use a another machine with a fel to lift the bucket.
Please apply common sense working under the fel.
 
Could it be the hydraulics are pressurizing and making it harder to crank? *IF* it's not rusted solid, there is a disconnect lever for the hydraulic pump, I can't remember what side it's on though.

Ours is an ether pig.. it doesn't take much to make it fire, but it sure helps.. 1/4-1/2 a second of spray is usually enough of a snort in non freezing weather..

I too have used compressed air in the fuel tank to bleed the lines.. make sure the fuel cock is open while you're at it ;)
 
I don't think it is hydraulics that are the problem and nothing on it is rusted. It almost fired last night and then the battery just drew down too much. It is not seized and the fan and belt turn when it is cranked. I may have to go the route of placing a few batteries in parallel to give it a longer cranking time. I really wish there was a way to provide a continuous power source to it to give it maybe a full 30-40 seconds of cranking.

Would a battery charger that has a jumpstart setting hooked directly to the starter do any damage to it?

Can't get another machine near the front end because it is parked in an enclosed shed.
 
sstterry said:
I don't think it is hydraulics that are the problem and nothing on it is rusted. It almost fired last night and then the battery just drew down too much. It is not seized and the fan and belt turn when it is cranked. I may have to go the route of placing a few batteries in parallel to give it a longer cranking time. I really wish there was a way to provide a continuous power source to it to give it maybe a full 30-40 seconds of cranking.

Would a battery charger that has a jumpstart setting hooked directly to the starter do any damage to it?

Can't get another machine near the front end because it is parked in an enclosed shed.

No, but it's not likely to produce enough power to do anything useful. It'll just get the cables hot, and eventually kick the breaker.

If you aren't getting several minutes of cranking before the batteries tire, the starter is bad and drawing more than it should, or there is high resistance in the circuit.
 
Good chance is that the electric solenoid in the top of the pump is shutting off because of the battery running down. Because it nearly cranks and then the batteries play out. Is the electric solenoid in the pump clicking before you start to crank.
 
Steal a good fresh battery out of another piece of equipment.

What I have done is disconnect the alternator and everything else, then run it on 24 volt.. some engines that are hard to start on 12 fire up really nice on 24... you wouldn't want to crank for as long, but you may not need to either.. So is it harder on the starter to crank and crank on 12 or turn over less but faster on 24? Them starters ain't cheap either.

There's a facebook group for JD crawlers too with some knowledgeable people.
 
sstterry said:
I have an older John Deere 350B track loader that has been parked for years. We are trying to get it started and have drained the old fuel and replaced it. We have also bled the system, but when we try to get it going just when it sounds like it wants to start the batteries (brand new) start to lose juice.

Is there a way to provide direct continuous 12v power to the starter just to get it to fire. We have tried hooking a running vehicle to it, but still, the batteries just don't have the energy to run the starter long enough to get it to crank before they run down.

Note (we can't change the fuel filters until it is running because the lift arms are in the way.)
I have a 450B dozer and at times I have had to hot wire the shutoff switch on top of the injection pump to get the pump to operate. You might try that all it takes is a wire to the switch on top of the pump and of course make sure you have a ground from the battery you are using to the chassis of the loader.
 

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