greggy
Well-known member
If you put duals on the rear, does that make them 4WD ? 
International 1486
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1982vett
Well-known member
greggy said:If you put duals on the rear, does that make them 4WD ?
Nah...Just a dually.
Silver
Well-known member
greggy said:If you put duals on the rear, does that make them 4WD ?
Two wheel drive at best, these tractors don't have dif lock :lol:
At least mine didn't
greggy
Well-known member
No diff lock....ew....you would need the duals then ?
I will just add this, on a serious note. On another forum, before I bought an International from the 60's, I was told, stay away from International, they are pigs too start.
Now I knew that could not be entirely true, or there would not be so many of them, a worn out one, with bad battery, no glow and bad fuel....mmm, yeah, but every Inter a pig ?
Anyway, long story short, I bought the inter, it has the glow plugs not working, it starts fine, in fact, it starts straight away, my 80's jap tractor with working glow and reduction drive starter is much harder too start, you have to use glow or forget it if engine not warm even when 40C.
The Inter, old type starter, car battery, and as long as it is 10 C or above, fires straight away, no glow, no nothing, so it is rubbish to label a whole brand that way. It is a strong tractor.
I will just add this, on a serious note. On another forum, before I bought an International from the 60's, I was told, stay away from International, they are pigs too start.
Now I knew that could not be entirely true, or there would not be so many of them, a worn out one, with bad battery, no glow and bad fuel....mmm, yeah, but every Inter a pig ?
Anyway, long story short, I bought the inter, it has the glow plugs not working, it starts fine, in fact, it starts straight away, my 80's jap tractor with working glow and reduction drive starter is much harder too start, you have to use glow or forget it if engine not warm even when 40C.
The Inter, old type starter, car battery, and as long as it is 10 C or above, fires straight away, no glow, no nothing, so it is rubbish to label a whole brand that way. It is a strong tractor.
littletom
Well-known member
I have a 10 spend alot of time in one. It you are going to the field to stay in one gear and direction they work well. If doing much shifting not so good. When you set in one for several hours i am spent. For a laoder tractor i would remove loader. Also be great for hired help to use, your not setting in it. Those backwards door on a windy day are special.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
greggy said:
10C is what 50F...? that is a mild fall day. If a tractor wouldn't start for me at 50F I would fix it or make it go bye bye, because probably 3/4 of the year I start the tractor below 50.
Silver
Well-known member
They do have ether injection, so just gotta keep the can topped up
Terribly strong tractors though. I pulled 6 16" bottoms in sod with mine, and if I hit a particularly hard patch it would pull the front wheels 3 feet off the ground. Probably should have had front weights.
Terribly strong tractors though. I pulled 6 16" bottoms in sod with mine, and if I hit a particularly hard patch it would pull the front wheels 3 feet off the ground. Probably should have had front weights.
greggy
Well-known member
littletom said:
Well, that will depend on wind direction I guess, I nearly ripped my land rover door off the other day as I stopped, did not have a remote wind direction indicator (my bad) opened door, and off it went...creased the darn thing just when I am thinking of selling
greggy
Well-known member
chevytaHOE5674 said:
Yeah, it starts, I park it where it gets sun, so even on 10c it will start no drama, as it gets colder, it just winds over a few more times, but if it is 0c...early am, it is going to take a few goes, I do not use it for many jobs, so I am not motivated to fix the glow, even though that is something I am familiar with, it is easier to make sure batt is charged, wait till it has had some sun, then, viola.....
Point was, it starts relatively easy, even with no glow in reasonable conditions, compared to a Jap tractor with reduction starter and working glow plugs, so, the Internationals are all hard to start, is totally busted.
The best starting diesels I know of are later common rail systems, my Land Rover fires straight away, no matter what temp AU throws at it, and it is a bit of a heap of shite really, but the precise injection prob helps a lot. My Mazda, even though over a decade newer, is not as good, it relies on the glow working well....just IMO.
Silver said:Also, be sure to regularly check that your axle hub is nice and tight on the axle so as not to end up like me.
Ha!
If that were me, I'm not sure which would have been worse - the popknot on my head from the left side window or the brown stain in my britches!
Lbass
Well-known member
The shifting linkage is a bear to service. You will want to attempt to keep it lubed or it takes the strength of 10 men to get it into reverse. I cut a hole in the side of the cab below the fender in front of the drivers side tire. Spray white lithium grease in, and close the little hatch. Made a different tractor out of it as far as user friendly goes.
Mine starts good down to 38*... Pretty sure my block heater isn't working. Going to take it in and check the block heater and alternator this week. Has somewhere around 14,000 hours on it. Most problems I have are fuel filters from crap offroad fuel. I just drive it to town now and put 80 gallons or so of on road in at a time. cheaper than filters all the time.
Mine starts good down to 38*... Pretty sure my block heater isn't working. Going to take it in and check the block heater and alternator this week. Has somewhere around 14,000 hours on it. Most problems I have are fuel filters from crap offroad fuel. I just drive it to town now and put 80 gallons or so of on road in at a time. cheaper than filters all the time.
I put an air ride seat in our 1086 and it made a world of difference. People will complain about the TA being a weak spot, but they are 40 year old tractors, so having the TA worked on every 30-40 years isn't the worst thing. I think there were some improvements to the TA rebuilds also, I was going to get the eliminator put in ours when it went out but the dealer said it was close to the same price as having the TA repaired and they had yet to get a repaired one back in the shop and they knew a lot of people abuse them. As was mentioned, use the TA - 50% of the time in high and 50% in low. Ours shifts nice, you just have to be patient; have rpm's around 1000, push in clutch and count to 5 and it will slide right into gear. Not a good thing for a loader tractor but for field work not a big deal. Best starting tractor on the farm.
5S Cattle
Well-known member
Well I called twice Saturday. They text me today and said someone was supposed to bring money this week. Said if they backed out they'd call me
Ky cowboy
Well-known member
I like my 1086 just bought a 2350 loader for it, still have to make a bracket for it then I'll see how I like it as a loader tractor. Mine has had ta delete fuel pump and a lot more parts but it was setting for several years it only has 3000 hours now
skyhightree1
Well-known member
Lbass said:
try a bed tank in your pick up or put a square cell on a trailer it beats driving it to town.
