flaboy+":1xowcra5 said:
Thanks D.R. I have seen that before. Maybe I should have stuck with a Cracker rather than the idiot I got. He has charged me in a open paddock twice and yesterday he charged my GF twice. He came out of a herd and doesn't like the fact that he is by himself. I have to keep the filly away from him. He has only been here three days and I have a sore neck so I can't work him too much yet. I have done some exercises with him the past two evenings. Fortunately my GF listened to me and she was able to turn him and she watched him like I told her to watch a bull. I guess I will get the vet out to take his boys. I don't need his attitude.
Maybe Alan will read this a give me some input also.
Baseball bat, 357, or shot gun.
Just kidding but I would start with removing the brains in the back end and as he is healing up move him around the paddock with a lounge whip, not much just enough to help him heal. You should be able to keep him off you with a whip to the ground, or if needed across the neck.
If you have a round pen this would be better, if you don't have a round pen maybe you have some panels you can use to put in the corners. Round pens are used so the horse just follows the fence lines and never seems to be able to run away from you. If you have corners the horse will follow the fence into the corner and stop get confused or try to go over it, so panels in the corners will help, it doesn't need to be round just have a flow to it. If you have enough panels to spare try to make a 60' round pen. Then, after he has healed well run the cr@p out of him get in the alpha postition, watch for chewing and licking when he does this, he's telling you you're winning a he'll start being submissive. Be careful this is only a win in one battle, there will be more every day for a while.
But I would geld him first, make sure you work him light as he heals for a couple of weeks and then work him in a round pen until he becomes submissive. If he starts to stumble a lot and run with his nose to the ground you have gone too far and you need to back off before he drops, make sure you move him at a walk until he is cooled off so he doesn't tie up.
A couple of other items that will make him respect you more. When he is in hand and does something rude, like strike at you or try to bite, back him up, just get in his face, yanking on the lead and walking straight into him, I usually end up yelling too, forcing him to back up at a pretty good pace. Not too far because going fast and a distance can hurt him, so fast and maybe 15 to 25 feet. Then let him stand there and think about it, he should start to chew and lick, reward him if he does. I have a colt who is now two, but when we were waging battles, which seem quite often, he had the knack of turning around while I was backing him. I had to adjust myself to stay infront of him, a couple of times I was holding the lead and ended up about 2 feet off his butt, in a bad spot.
When your working him, allow him to come to you, you want him to enter your space, if you enter his space he is allowing you in and he is the alpha for that moment. To get a horse to come to me, I start in the round pen and after working them, I turn my body so my side is facing them, in a non threating manner. If I'm turned facing them I'm the preditor and putting them on alert, if I then step toward them I'm on the hunt and forcing them to move. So if I want to move them and become the alpha, I turn and face them and move a step or two to their hip, moving toward the hip gives the an open door to move forward, if I moved toward their head they would turn and bolt. So after we have worked and he is licking and chewing I turn sideways to them and hold my arm out lower my head in a relaxed position and softly call him in. It may take a few days, but always be soft and gentle when you catch him up, reward him for being caught, a scratch on the wethers or what ever. If he turns toward you and looks at you it's working, if he takes his attention off you and looks at something else move him out again and start over. When he takes a few steps toward you and then stops give him a few minutes to think about it and then take a couple step away from him this should draw him in closer. Always work him with a lounge whip when you can trust him more drop the whip when you want him to come to you.
Sorry for such a long post and telling you stuff you may have known already. Feel free to PM me or post anything else to help clearify this.
Hoped I helped, don't let your girl friend get hurt, an untrained stallion is a dangerous thing. I worked with a guy years ago that was leading out a "trained" Arab stud and for no known reason grabbed him and ripped off all the flesh on right shoulder and breast. I saw a young girl working a TB stud, was done and putting on his halter he grabbed her by the arm and picked her up over his head and threw her to the ground. He was fast enough that he did this three times before we could get to her and run him off. She was okay he was not.
Good luck,
Alan