High tensile fencing.Think I'm sold.

[cmjust0]

I used up four 4000' spools over the summer.. Post spacing was more or less determined by the terrain on my place, and I just tried to arrange it so the posts would stay in the ground against the tension and keep the bottom wire off the ground. That meant putting wood posts in the bigger dips and t-posts wherever else there was a rise or slight change in topography. I went with six wires, starting at 9" off the ground and going 9" between, so it's 54" high.

For grounding, I drove four 8' galvanized ground rods in a softish spot at the mouth of a little draw about 1/4 mile of fenceline away from where the charger will be.. I'll be hooking the three cold wires of the fence across all four rods and then to the negative terminal on the fencer.. That way when something touches the fence, the connection can be made either between the hot and ground wires or the hot wire and the physical earth..

The fencer I'm looking at is a so-called "100 mile" fencer, with about 6 output joules.. My goal is 10,000 volts at the back corner. :devil2: :lol:

 

[Central Fl Cracker]

How does the cost compare to regular barb wire fencing?

 

[badaxemoo]

How does the cost compare to regular barb wire fencing?

I can't remember the figures off the top of my head, but I penciled it out last year and the high tensile smooth wire fence was cheaper - even with the cost of the energizer. I would think the difference would have increased even more with the rise in steel prices for t-posts.

I caught some grief from my neighbors, who all have barbed wire, but none of them are doing intensive rotational grazing. I really like having an electrified perimeter fence because I can hook on anywhere with my polywire to make paddocks.

Here's some price comparisons that are only a couple years old:

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/agdm/l ... b1-75.html

 

[Herefordcross]

Kencove.com Sells a 210k wire and it's not that much more expensive and it doesn't tangle as easy BUT, use a SPINNING JENNY!

 

[bigbull338]

How does the cost compare to regular barb wire fencing?

I can't remember the figures off the top of my head, but I penciled it out last year and the high tensile smooth wire fence was cheaper - even with the cost of the energizer. I would think the difference would have increased even more with the rise in steel prices for t-posts.

I caught some grief from my neighbors, who all have barbed wire, but none of them are doing intensive rotational grazing. I really like having an electrified perimeter fence because I can hook on anywhere with my polywire to make paddocks.[/quote
the barbed wire cost $45 a roll.the high tensile wire costs $80 a roll.theres 3 rolls of barbed in 1 roll of high tensile.so 3 rolls of barbed wire is $135 for the same amount of wire.high tensile is $50 cheaper.barbed wire you spece posts 6 to 8ft a part.high tensile 25ft depending on the tarrain.high tensile is 3x faster to install an tighen than barbed wire.

 

[hersh]

I used up four 4000' spools over the summer.. Post spacing was more or less determined by the terrain on my place, and I just tried to arrange it so the posts would stay in the ground against the tension and keep the bottom wire off the ground. That meant putting wood posts in the bigger dips and t-posts wherever else there was a rise or slight change in topography. I went with six wires, starting at 9" off the ground and going 9" between, so it's 54" high.

For grounding, I drove four 8' galvanized ground rods in a softish spot at the mouth of a little draw about 1/4 mile of fenceline away from where the charger will be.. I'll be hooking the three cold wires of the fence across all four rods and then to the negative terminal on the fencer.. That way when something touches the fence, the connection can be made either between the hot and ground wires or the hot wire and the physical earth..

The fencer I'm looking at is a so-called "100 mile" fencer, with about 6 output joules.. My goal is 10,000 volts at the back corner. :devil2: :lol:

I got some nice ski slopes to run across too, they dont really stand out til you go putting a straight line across them. Planning on 25' centers but to do the little gullies I'll prolly go as close as 5'-10' just to keep the post from the wet bottoms.

 

[hersh]

How does the cost compare to regular barb wire fencing?

without the posts a six strand(three insulated) high tensile is shown to be .14 per foot. That does not include the tools you need like a crimper and a jenny. Like said post are spaced 25'-30'. I dont know the bob wire cost so I guess I really cant answer your question but I thro'd that out there incase anyone is interested.

 

[MillIronQH]

I'm lucky on the post part. All the posts in the old fence are t-posts except the corners which are going to have to be rebuilt anyway. The neighbors corner to the east is pipe that I can tie on to and there's about a 30 degree corner about halfway and I figure on moving ththe west end corner over about 20' to widen the drive and the gate.

Can you splice the wire like you do when you start a new roll of baling wire or is it to brittle? What's the best way to roll out the wire since it's not on a spool? I can't see just sticking a tamp bar thru it and walking off.Z

 

[bigbull338]

I'm lucky on the post part. All the posts in the old fence are t-posts except the corners which are going to have to be rebuilt anyway. The neighbors corner to the east is pipe that I can tie on to and there's about a 30 degree corner about halfway and I figure on moving ththe west end corner over about 20' to widen the drive and the gate.

Can you splice the wire like you do when you start a new roll of baling wire or is it to brittle? What's the best way to roll out the wire since it's not on a spool? I can't see just sticking a tamp bar thru it and walking off.Z

buy a flying jenny an put the wire on it.thats the only way you can unroll it with ease.

 

[badaxemoo]

I'm lucky on the post part. All the posts in the old fence are t-posts except the corners which are going to have to be rebuilt anyway. The neighbors corner to the east is pipe that I can tie on to and there's about a 30 degree corner about halfway and I figure on moving ththe west end corner over about 20' to widen the drive and the gate.

Can you splice the wire like you do when you start a new roll of baling wire or is it to brittle? What's the best way to roll out the wire since it's not on a spool? I can't see just sticking a tamp bar thru it and walking off.Z

There are probably lots of people that use smooth high-tensile with metal posts, but I would think that would make it a lot easier to have shorts.

As far as splicing - three of those crushable crimping sleeves are supposed to make a splice that has the strength of an uncut length of wire. Unless you have some awfully long 4000'+ runs, usually you tie off around a corner or two. I use leftover "shorts" on the rolls for brace posts.

A spinning jenny is a must. You don't need the fancy ones with the brakes if you have someone stand by the roll as you pull or you set the wheel so that one corner rubs slightly on the ground - just make sure to slow down a little before coming to a stop while walking or the wire is likely to pop off the roll and wrap around the base of the jenny.

I found out a couple of weeks ago that you can still use the jenny if the ground is frozen - just take a big block of wood and drill a hole in it for the spike instead of stepping it into the ground. I never thought I'd be out fencing in December.

 

[dun]

You need a jenny to pay out the wire. The easiest (and cheapest) splice is a square knot. Obviously you sue the high tensile wire and not extension cords. The harder you pull it the tighter the splice.