Flatbed gooseneck trailer

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Amo

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Chambers, NE (125 miles W. of Souix City IA or 110
For various reasons Im considering the purchase of a gooseneck flatbed. Kicking around new, but would prefer used. Mostly for just getting random stuff. Ocaisonally might haul a big tractor (14K#) or some hay. Not very often. A lot of people use 24' with 2 7K axles. Im sure it would get overloaded some times. Everyone seams to get away with it. Just like experation dates, they will rate it at 7, but might work for 8K...you get the idea. Just depends on how often you load it to the max. I like the idea of the heavier rating of tandem duals (10K) but they pull like a boat anchor. So Im not sure how badly I need the "industrial version" for what Im going to use it for.

What do people run? Around here Titan, FJ, Circle D, Hillsboro, a few Kaufmans, a few Delta's....etc. Big Tex is another. Heard good and bad on them. Guess a Big Tex is a low profile. Delta's are reasonably priced. Somewhat wonder as to why its as reasonable???? Found a used Delta for a good price. Found a '91 Diamond D that I think would do the job for what I want. Its not as stout as some of the others, but priced right. Looked up in South Dakota some. Have seen AUB & DCT mentioned. Anybody have first hand experience with them?

Only experience Ive had with a gooseneck flatbed is a 30' Featherlite. 10K axles, I think he put sheet metal over the wood deck, so ya it pulls like a boat anchor. Half the time Id say Id be empty so, pulling easy is a major consideration. If I was loaded 90% of the time, the industrial version would more important. If I could get the industrial version in a hobby farmer package that would be awesome. Pigs might fly first though! :lol2: It does sound like the AUB would pull easy.

Guess just checking for first hand experience with say Titan, PJ, Delta, or AUB. I know opinions is going to be like arguing Ford vs Chevy, but opinions are welcome also.
 
Sounds to me like you've already convinced you are NOT buying a trailer capable of hauling anything over 14,000 lbs. I know how my logic works and it goes something like this.

Need to haul a few round bales from one farm to the other. Load ten bales @ 1000 lbs each on 7K axles. Hey, it worked!
Next week, need to take tractor to shop to get it worked on. Tractor weighs 14,000 plus 1K weights on rear axle, 2K on front and a FEL. What the heck, I'm just a little over on the axles.
Next week, need to help a buddy move a building to his deer lease. Building weighs 20K (trailer weighs 5K). Half way to Uvalde right rear axle stub shaft breaks off and wheel assembly takes off through a guys pasture taking out 50 feet of fence.. Find a new stub axle 50 miles away, get it and replace broken one. Take off again. This time left side breaks and wheel assembly crosses median and someone on the other side of the highway hits it and losses control, killing everyone inside. Highway patrol arrests me and I'm convicted and sentenced to 20 years for negligent manslaughter.

Yes, I'm writing to you from prison.

Not really, just trying to give you a little food for thought. ;-)
 
If you really want to haul more without going to duals, consider the tridem single axles.. 3x7000 lbs = 21,000 lbs.. but they'll rub the tires off pretty quick.

I went with a 20' 14,000 lb bumper pull, and it does well for what I need.. don't know it's behind you when it's empty, and still hauls enough stuff.

Also beware of license requirements.. Around here if you want to pull a trailer over 10,000 lbs, you need an endorsement on your license to do it, and the requirements for it are about the same as for driving a dump truck (Class 3 except for air brake).. which means you need to take a medical exam every 5 years.. at which point you might as well just get a Class 1 and be done with it (just a little more training)... Now since you have a Class 1, you might as well get a tractor/trailer which is designed to routinely haul those loads, but then you have to go through inspections every few months, which adds a LOT of cost.

And now you see why I stick with a 14,000 lb trailer that never sees over 10,000 lbs.. the trailer weighs 2200 lbs, leaving me about 8500 lbs payload (hitch weight is subtracted)...

Outside the rodeo grounds here the cops were pulling everyone over with the tridem axle trailers, KNOWING they were over 10,000 lbs.. no one had the endorsement and they all got $700 fines, points against them, and the trailers towed to an impound (don't ask me how it works with horses in it)
 
I went with a Load Trail that has the oversize frame if I need to add a third axle, but only got two for now. It is 25' with the pop up dove tail and the ramps are built in the back and it has the two jacks up front. It pulls easy behind my PS.

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Nesikep":2ky5xwid said:
If you really want to haul more without going to duals, consider the tridem single axles.. 3x7000 lbs = 21,000 lbs.. but they'll rub the tires off pretty quick.

I went with a 20' 14,000 lb bumper pull, and it does well for what I need.. don't know it's behind you when it's empty, and still hauls enough stuff.

Also beware of license requirements.. Around here if you want to pull a trailer over 10,000 lbs, you need an endorsement on your license to do it, and the requirements for it are about the same as for driving a dump truck (Class 3 except for air brake).. which means you need to take a medical exam every 5 years.. at which point you might as well just get a Class 1 and be done with it (just a little more training)... Now since you have a Class 1, you might as well get a tractor/trailer which is designed to routinely haul those loads, but then you have to go through inspections every few months, which adds a LOT of cost.

And now you see why I stick with a 14,000 lb trailer that never sees over 10,000 lbs.. the trailer weighs 2200 lbs, leaving me about 8500 lbs payload (hitch weight is subtracted)...



Outside the rodeo grounds here the cops were pulling everyone over with the tridem axle trailers, KNOWING they were over 10,000 lbs.. no one had the endorsement and they all got $700 fines, points against them, and the trailers towed to an impound (don't ask me how it works with horses in it)

I think you're right, Nesi. Someone told me the other day that a triple axle trailer required someone with a CDL to tow it.
 
It might be the opposite. A tandem, dual requires a CDL... a triple, single does not.

I've been looking at the same thing. Trying to stay away from duals also. They made some single wheel, tandem axle trailers that were rated for 16K. I figured that was the minimum I could go. A cabbed tractor and bat wing shredder will go 14K easy. Most I would be traveling is 30-40miles.

I keep seeing the triple singles, which would be nice, my buddy just bought one, but every time I see one they sure look like they are in a bind. Plenty of cattle trailers running them though.

If your going to travel any distance... get the tandem, duals or triple, single. I'm not worried about the axles. Distributing that weight on those extra tires make a lot of difference IMO.
 
Brute 23":2j11kbsk said:
It might be the opposite. A tandem, dual requires a CDL... a triple, single does not.

I've been looking at the same thing. Trying to stay away from duals also. They made some single wheel, tandem axle trailers that were rated for 16K. I figured that was the minimum I could go. A cabbed tractor and bat wing shredder will go 14K easy. Most I would be traveling is 30-40miles.

I keep seeing the triple singles, which would be nice, my buddy just bought one, but every time I see one they sure look like they are in a bind. Plenty of cattle trailers running them though.

If your going to travel any distance... get the tandem, duals or triple, single. I'm not worried about the axles. Distributing that weight on those extra tires make a lot of difference IMO.
That all depends on your state if a CDL is required
Myself I would rather pull a dual tandem trailer anyday over a tri axle especially if your hetting into tight places
To the OP
A tandem dual if set up right doesn't pull any worse than a single tire
I wouldn't have anything less than a 30ft tandem dual trailer
 
I was just going to say that, single 10K axles are out there....if ordering one. If they are torsions, you could have a flat and keep rolling. Same principal as duals. Anybody have experience with them?

I understand your comment lavarancher. Ive borrowed over the years. If I owned one, maybe Id use more. Just not real sure Id have a lot of super heavy loads. If I could get one that pulls awesome, Id go as heavy as I could. Can always upgrade as I go. Honestly I need a newer stock trailer more.

Im not sharp on regulations. In Nebraska you have comercial (not pro rated) plates & farm plates. Weather its right or wrong, if you want to you can get away with more with farm plates...if you stay in state.

On the sister page to this site is a thread on Titan vs Travalong.

http://ranchers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=74554
 
I towed a 24,000 lb tandem dual trailer a few times.. the trailer is SO heavy (7000 lbs) it was crazy. In tight spots the tandem dual will be better than the tridem single.. on the highway they'll be about the same.

I just put 4 new 14 ply rating tires on my trailer.

Around here the number of axles or type isn't relevant to the license.. once you're over 10K you need the endorsement... Also something to think about if your neighboring states have different laws
 
There's a big difference between "farm use" and for "hire - commercial" uses.
 
ram":24nibasr said:
There's a big difference between "farm use" and for "hire - commercial" uses.

X2. Most states have ag exemptions for private use. I have got stopped before at 34,000 lbs on a single axle truck and not having CDls has never been an issue as long as I tell them that I am using it for farm use. In TN I just have to have "Farm Use Only" on the back of the truck.
 
Well I called a dealer in South Dakota. In the past I had talked to him & seamed pretty sharp.

He stated that as long as your running 2 axles with singles, your pretty safe anywhere. Especially with farm plates, within 130 miles of home in Nebraska. Said you can run over the border a ways and probably get away with triples or dual tandems on farm plates. Said that with farm plates as long as your total weight is covered by the vehicle & trailer, you are fine. He has to run commercial plates. If he is over on just one axle he is screwed.

In Nebraska, you can run triples or tandem duels on farm plates within 100 (maybe 130) miles of home and your good. South Dakota will let it slide if your from Nebraska. If your South Dakota with farm plate, you need a medical card. After your beyond 100 miles medical card, CDL etc. Kansas is somewhat the same. Id be over 130 miles so then Id have to CDL.

Iowa and Minnesota are even harder. They have no exemptions....which is probably a good thing I guess. So not only do you need a CDL & Medical card, but annual inspection & log book. Not sure about DOT number/name on door etc.

I was really liking the idea of tandem duels etc. Begining to think the smaller trailer will meet my needs & not be a legal nightmare. He said an axle could be overloaded by 10% without having serious issues.
 
IMO you are making this way to complicated. I pull a gooseneck everyday and have pulled one all over the country. If you are hauling your stuff for your farm don't worry about any of it. 26,001 lbs. is the magic number. DOT does not care about how many tires you have it is all about your GVW. You go over that number and you need a CDL. Doesn't matter the state. If you have your load secured and your trailer in good repair no one will mess with you. Particularly if your load is farm related. Put private trailer tags on it for the weight the trailer is weighted for and ride on. If you are ever weighed and you are over the number above they will fine you maybe but most of the time they wave you thru just check lights and chains. It's called commercial vehicle enforcement for a reason. You aren't commercial. That's my experience and I have pulled one way over 250k miles.

As far as make goes Kaufman and Delta are both good trailers. PJs are nice but so heavy built it kills your payload. Just make sure anything you buy has Dexter axles. Unless you are going to haul over 10k# regularly for long distance go for a 14k# trailer with single tandems. If you feel like you are pushing it a little on weight replace the tires with 14 ply tires when you wear the factory ones out.
 
You are wrong about the 26,001 deal making you have a CDL in some states if farm tagged withing 100 or 150 air miles No CDL is required at all no matter the gvwr
We ran semi's and most of the drivers just has regular drivers license but were required to have a Med card
Rules on Farm Tags vary from state to state

Amo
Contact your state DOT and they will give you the regs for your state that is the safest way to do it
 
Angus Cowman":fn15n6aq said:
You are wrong about the 26,001 deal making you have a CDL in some states if farm tagged withing 100 or 150 air miles No CDL is required at all no matter the gvwr
We ran semi's and most of the drivers just has regular drivers license but were required to have a Med card
Rules on Farm Tags vary from state to state

Amo
Contact your state DOT and they will give you the regs for your state that is the safest way to do it

Very true about laws varying state to state. In Kentucky if the truck has a GVWR of 10,000 things start to change. If I stay within 150 air miles or do not cross the state line not much is said. DOT number required to cross the state line, not sure if they enforce it though. On the other hand you can be hauling camper or horse trailer for pleasure and they told us it was not required, they consider it interstate commerce.

Sometimes I think they change the rules all the time to keep us confused and to make money.
 
You are correct about the farm exemption which is exactly why I said if you are hauling farm stuff for yourself buy it, tag it, and drive it. They do make the rules complicated and if you ask they will tell you you need this and that and pay for all of it. Tag the truck and trailer according to the GVW however your state makes you do it and you can drive it where you want as long as it is for you and your farm. If you just use generic Farm Use tags that is when milage etc. comes in to play. Also try to avoid putting a GCVW ( combined weight) rating on your rig this is where they really get you at the scale house. Rules do vary state to state and almost monthly it seems but as long as your load is secure, not extremely overweight or width, lights work etc. they will not mess with farmers pretty much nationwide. Better to beg forgiveness than ask permission for the scenario the OP describes. He won't have to beg much or often if he sticks to what he describes. Just my HO.
 

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