Fixing a Mud Hole

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pdfangus":17dy9rsh said:
we have used a product referred to as decreted concrete ....sounds like the same thing...

our local source dried up and have not tried to find it lately....we have used it to fix some erosion problems in the past....

pdf its a good hike from you but slag from the steel mill in Petersburg does good for that too.
 
True Grit Farms":ihmdiagl said:
I hope Jogeephus will chime in on this subject, he works in a swamp. We put rail road rock in the creek crossings and drive log trucks across them all the time. And after the second load of rock there's usually no problems.

The rock works good if you have a hard bottom but if its what we call yella baby shyt the rock will just get pressed down into the earth. With a soft bottom you need to lay geofabric like suggested. Lay it down first then put the rock on top of it like you suggested. I have a stream crossing done this way that always gave trouble. I went ahead and sprung for the fabric and its been good for over 20 years now.
 
zirlottkim":1xnafrnn said:
I've been using a concrete byproduct in driveways and water areas. Around here they call it clincker. Im not even sure what it is. Its very powdery and needs to be rained on soon after but dries and packs its almost like cement . Its seems better on hooves than rocks and really tightens the ground up. Its about 20% cheaper than rocks too. Maybe use fill dirt first and clinker on top.

We have a lime by product that's called Code L that we occasionally use to remediate soil when we are in that area, especially. We use it mostly to stabilize areas like the OP describes and is too wet and/or in too big of a hurry to wait on it to air dry, even with scarifying. Our process, if placing soil fill in lifts, is to place soil, scarify, place Code L, scarify to mix, repeat until the area is filled if possible. If you don't get done, or break down, you sometimes have a problem if its hot weather and drying really fast. That stuff sets up quick with just the ground moisture, which is mostly very wet or even mud, else you wouldn't be using Code L to begin with. Very good material. They used to just give it away, until they figured out how good it was.
 
Overhead view shows red lines where this bog is. Would putting in another entry at the top corner (single line) be less expensive? I could start work on that sooner than I can get in the bog? I can shut the lane down by closing an existing gate.

 
The product you guys are describing is called "screenings" or BPA here. A lot of lime dust in it. Cheapest thing in the quarry, $3 ton. Tracks real bad until it gets wet a few times and set up, but then it's like concrete.
 
Pretty close D2, but Code L is even finer than screenings. Powder basically. Screenings are good too though, especially for capping off, instead of remediation, so that would be an option for smoothing the top of the bridging material-the 2-3" clean.

There is a farm near me that has used screenings for mats for feeding hay in the winter. I hear it works great, can scrape it with front end loader it gets so solid.
 
Ever one has an idea on how to fix it. Me I would hire one of the local dirt contractors to fix it right for me and not skimp on material.
 
D2Cat":2tp2dehb said:

This works too. Same principle.

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Finding out that different people use different terminology for the stuff I'm supposedly getting. Talk to a friend of mine this morning that he called it wash out, the stuff that they dump when cleaning out the concrete delivery trucks. He says it will make a pretty good base, but not necessarily help my mud hole.
 
Washout works pretty good for a topper, but it's hit or miss whether anyone at the readymix places has any available when you need it. It gets sold pretty quick around here.
 
greybeard":j86t0033 said:
Washout works pretty good for a topper, but it's hit or miss whether anyone at the readymix places has any available when you need it. It gets sold pretty quick around here.

Since figuring out what it really is I figured out I can only use it as a base and to spread on my driveway. I'm not going to waste any on the mud hole, so I'll fix it a different way once it dries out. The truck driver I talked to says there are several places around that beg people to haul the wash out off and give it away.
 
Resurrecting an old thread here to say this year is the final year that I throw band aids at this problem. Just down from the original slop pit another started developing, so I just did what hurley told me to do way back when.

hurleyjd said:
Ever one has an idea on how to fix it. Me I would hire one of the local dirt contractors to fix it right for me and not skimp on material.

The contractor says it'll take three semi loads of material and a bulldozer to do it right. He also says fixing these mud pits is the main thing he's doing at the moment. Hopefully, this problem will be corrected by Saturday.
 
IMO, now is not the time to fix it. I'd let it dry and do what Talltimber recommended and dig it out then lay down some landscape fabric then put some large gravel then finer gravel on top then cover with dirt. The geofabric is the key. I fixed a place similar over 20 years ago and haven't had any problem with it since and I couldn't even count the number of semitrucks that have crossed it during wet times.
 
Spring rains will be coming and will only make it worse. I should start calving in the next 30 days and not in the mood to pull dead ones out of that pit, so I don't really feel like I have a choice. The contractor will be putting down the fabric after it's dug out, then he is filling with two sizes of rock. The top layer is what you're seeing in the bottom pic with lots of fines.
 
As long as he can get the fabric down then it should work fine. The fabric is key. Just hard to do a good job when its wet. Not saying it can't be done.
 
There's a little over 2' of mud there and he'll push that out, then the fabric. This is what he's been doing around the area.
 

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