Fencing Question

[Jogeephus]

Am running a fence down a property line. Property line runs dead center through a 48" live oak tree. Want to keep fence on line but was thinking of Squaring the fence around the tree and then coming back on line on the other side of the tree or V-ing it to save on corner posts. If I square it, I'll need eight posts, if I V it I still will need seven. Are there any other methods of handling this? Don't want to hurt tree. What about fastening the fence to the tree with eye bolts drilled in tree? I doubt this would hurt the tree any more than drilling seven or eight holes in the root zone. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[msscamp]

What is wrong with setting a post on either side of the tree - assuming the spacing works out - and simply allowing the fence to bow out around the tree? That is generally how it is handled in this area. Sometimes, if the spacing of the fence posts works out right, the tree is used as a post and the wires are simply stapled to it.

 

[DiamondSCattleCo]

I'm with mss. Staple it up there and keep on running. Cows like a crooked fenceline :)

Rod

 

[MillIronQH]

The problem with stapling the wire to the tree is that the tree will grow around it and then it's in there forever. If anyone should ever need to cut the tree down they have that wire to deal with. You can take a sheet off corragated tin and put it between the wire and the tree and as long as the posts on either side are good the fence ain't goin' nowhere.Z

 

[dun]

When we use a tree for a post for hotwire, I take a 2x4 or piece of 2 inch plastic pipe and wire it to the tree with the end resting on the ground and then just eiter fasten the wire to the 2x4/pipe or put a noose around the tree. You can leave the wire holding it to the tree fairly loose and the tree won;t grow into it.

dun

 

[Dusty Britches]

We are replacing all of the fences on our place. The previous owner did not build them right and let the wire rest on the trees. Most of those trees died, but the ones that kept on growing rusted the wire and eventually broke it.

My suggestion is to either build 2-3 feet out from it, giving the tree room to grow or cut it down.

I preferr option A, but have been forced to use option B more than I care to recall. The V style is best, imho, b/c on a long run, the box style will need extra H bracing.

 

[Jogeephus]

Dusty, this is a long run and if it was any other tree on any other line beside any other neighbor, I'd just cut it down. If you fence to trees here you are just asking for trouble due to lightning.

Also, the adjoining neighbor is an idgit and he can't get along with any of his neighbors - even me. :roll: He is now trying to claim land from two other neighbors and I am afraid if I do not keep true to the line there could be some problems - despite the line being surveyed.

The other major concern I have is the tree dying. I'm not a tree hugger but this tree is impressive so if I get fence in it or if the fence touches it - lightning or girdling could kill it. I think I've got some ideas from suggestions that I can adjust a bit and come up with a workable solution and limit damage on the tree and save some bucks - I'll post the results if it works out - otherwise I'll keep my mouth shut.

 

[backhoeboogie]

Well I don't see 8 posts. I see the fence ending just before the tree with my heavy H brace about 4 inches from the tree, dead center. Then I see me starting the next fence with another H-brace, dead center, 4 inches away from the tree, on the opposite side. Two H braces is 4 posts and two cross members.

Now if a cow can squeeze through the 4 inch gap between my tree and that heavy H brace, she needs to get to the other side and eat anyway. :lol:

 

[NorCalFarms]

I'm with backhoeboogie. Just run the fence up as close as you can, end it. Start on the other side as close as you can, and go. I can maybe see a problem getting posts in close enough to the tree to only have a four inch gap. Probably to many roots to get a post hole dug. I'd either put more room between the tree and H brace and cut a wire panel in half and tie it in, board fence between the tree and H brace-whatever you can to keep them out. Or better yet just put a rock jack close to the tree on each end, I'm sure you could get them close enough that a cow couldn't get through between the tree and jack. Heck with a couple rock jacks you'd use zero posts! and they'd last longer than posts.

 

[backhoeboogie]

My case was an old pecan. We didn't want to tie to it. We weren't running electric fence. I considered several things and then decided to just run up to it and stop then start again on the other side. I had resolved to weld a curved brace around the trees to hold the pipe H's if the wire pulled them to much. Didn't have to. An oak's roots are going to spread different.

 

[Cowdirt]

I'm with backhoeboogie. Just run the fence up as close as you can, end it. Start on the other side as close as you can, and go. I can maybe see a problem getting posts in close enough to the tree to only have a four inch gap. Probably to many roots to get a post hole dug. I'd either put more room between the tree and H brace and cut a wire panel in half and tie it in, board fence between the tree and H brace-whatever you can to keep them out. Or better yet just put a rock jack close to the tree on each end, I'm sure you could get them close enough that a cow couldn't get through between the tree and jack. Heck with a couple rock jacks you'd use zero posts! and they'd last longer than posts.

NorCal,
To hitchhike on your idea; how about H brace on each side of tree and take a wire panel and bow it around the tree. Staple wire panel to post on each side and drive one or two T posts inside the curve of the wire panel and clip the panel to the post/posts?

 

[KenB]

I'm with backhoeboogie. Just run the fence up as close as you can, end it. Start on the other side as close as you can, and go. I can maybe see a problem getting posts in close enough to the tree to only have a four inch gap. Probably to many roots to get a post hole dug. I'd either put more room between the tree and H brace and cut a wire panel in half and tie it in, board fence between the tree and H brace-whatever you can to keep them out. Or better yet just put a rock jack close to the tree on each end, I'm sure you could get them close enough that a cow couldn't get through between the tree and jack. Heck with a couple rock jacks you'd use zero posts! and they'd last longer than posts.

NorCal,
To hitchhike on your idea; how about H brace on each side of tree and take a wire panel and bow it around the tree. Staple wire panel to post on each side and drive one or two T posts inside the curve of the wire panel and clip the panel to the post/posts?

This is what I would do also.
Wire panels when bowed will stay up even with out posts.
It probobly would work if you welded, tied two panels together and stayed 16 feet away from the tree in both directions.

 

[Dusty Britches]

Those are some great suggestions and I'm going to try the cattle panel 4 g wire on the next big oak and pecan I have to cross.

 

[Conagher]

Ran into a similar problem on a 5 strand barb wire property line fence. Considered a lot of the same options above. Decided to just run the wire around the tree. Once fence was up and wire stretched, went back and placed treated 2X6 between tree and wire and stapled board to fence (sometimes use creasote posts instead of board). As tree grows it will simply push on board and pushes out the fence. Good Luck!

 

[backhoeboogie]

Once fence was up and wire stretched, went back and placed treated 2X6 between tree and wire and stapled board to fence (sometimes use creasote posts instead of board).

This probably sounds like a broken record to some, but I was completely burned out from fires in '90. Wood is not a good thing to build fence with. If you are ever burned out once, you will never use wood again on fencing.

 

[jack.diamond]

Ran into a similar problem on a 5 strand barb wire property line fence. Considered a lot of the same options above. Decided to just run the wire around the tree. Once fence was up and wire stretched, went back and placed treated 2X6 between tree and wire and stapled board to fence (sometimes use creasote posts instead of board). As tree grows it will simply push on board and pushes out the fence. Good Luck!

Conagher,

I like this idea. Seems to me to be the easiest and cheapest way to get the fence up. Thanks for the tip.

Jack

 

[NorCalFarms]

Once fence was up and wire stretched, went back and placed treated 2X6 between tree and wire and stapled board to fence (sometimes use creasote posts instead of board).

This probably sounds like a broken record to some, but I was completely burned out from fires in '90. Wood is not a good thing to build fence with. If you are ever burned out once, you will never use wood again on fencing.

Ah, jacks do not burn either-not that it would matter here. Can't get enough to grow without irrigation to burn, and if your irrigating it, well it is green. I can imagine that getting burned out would change a guys thinking.

The other thing to think about is you need a straight run between whatever ends you have, or you need to brace the posts around the tree (with HT or barbed anyway) otherwise the curve of the wire going around the tree will pull the posts near the tree into the curve. I was thinking about this last night, and I also thought that eventually the tree will die (maybe it'll last longer than the fence, maybe not) and then you have a problem unless you have ended the fence on both sides.

 

[john250]

Am running a fence down a property line. Property line runs dead center through a 48" live oak tree. Want to keep fence on line but was thinking of Squaring the fence around the tree and then coming back on line on the other side of the tree or V-ing it to save on corner posts. If I square it, I'll need eight posts, if I V it I still will need seven. Are there any other methods of handling this? Don't want to hurt tree. What about fastening the fence to the tree with eye bolts drilled in tree? I doubt this would hurt the tree any more than drilling seven or eight holes in the root zone.

I like the eye bolts in the tree idea. I doubt you'll hurt the tree. But, will the neighbor be trouble if the tree should die?

 

[Jogeephus]

Am running a fence down a property line. Property line runs dead center through a 48" live oak tree. Want to keep fence on line but was thinking of Squaring the fence around the tree and then coming back on line on the other side of the tree or V-ing it to save on corner posts. If I square it, I'll need eight posts, if I V it I still will need seven. Are there any other methods of handling this? Don't want to hurt tree. What about fastening the fence to the tree with eye bolts drilled in tree? I doubt this would hurt the tree any more than drilling seven or eight holes in the root zone.

I like the eye bolts in the tree idea. I doubt you'll hurt the tree. But, will the neighbor be trouble if the tree should die?

I don't think he would really care. He wants to push down all the live oaks on the property line so he can get a few dollars more out of the poor fella that rents his place.

I had hoped to have a picture to post of how I fenced it but drew some blood with the chainsaw today which kinda delayed things a bit.(nothing major - just decided best quit while I was ahead - gonna hit it tomorrow a.m)

Got some good advice from folks so I think I'll steal some of it and use the H posts outside the drip line. This will leave about a 40 foot pull to the eyebolts in the tree. Planning on attaching a seperate wire to wooden posts and have the wire seperate from the other wire to break any conductivity from the main fence to the tree - in the event of lightning.

In doing this, I should be able to do minimal damage to the root zone of the tree, protect the tree from lightning and give a clear view of where the property line is so as to prevent any misunderstandings with my wonderful neighbor.

Oh, what is a rock jack?

 

[NorCalFarms]

Oh my, how lucky are you! ;-) We use rockjacks in many spots where it is impossible to get a post in the ground (at least a large corner post for H braces). They hold up better than any H brace and are cheaper, but do take some time and rocks, but we have lots of those. Most range fence here is rock jacks (large ones up to 5-6' in diameter) on ends and corners and all tee posts in between, unless you can't drive a tee post and then you build small rock jacks.

Basically you take woven fence of some sort and make a circle about 4-5' in diameter with it. I like the heavy stuff about 52" tall with all 2" holes, so the small rocks don't fall out. Field Fence type stuff will work but you have to make several 'wraps' of you cirlce with it. So now you have what looks like a barrel made of fence (only larger in diameter). Set it where ever you are ending your fence or on the corner. Now the fun part, fill it with rocks. Smaller (less than fist sized) are better as they settle more evenly and the jack will stay straight. Never go bigger that hat size. Once that is done you can just wrap the barbed around it and you have a good corner. The experts on fence here will now not tie the wire off to the jack. They put a double strenth T post or a piece of pipe in the ground about 8' from the jack and tie it off with several wraps of heavy wire, one on the bottom right off of the ground, going from the bottom of the jack to the bottom of the post, and another going from the bottom of the jack up at a angle to the post at the hieght of the top wire. This way the pull on the jack is all at the ground and it will not pull over (they won't anyway if it is big enough). I've even seen more and more H braces done this way.

I've seen some guys with more time weld a nice big frame out of pipe, with three or four vertical pipes about 4-8' apart in either a square or a triangle (if viewed from the top). Then they weld pipe horizontally every 8" or so to hold the rocks in. These make awesome corners to hang a gate on, as it will never, ever sag.

I wish I had a camera so I could snap some pictures, but hopefully I described it well enough. If not holler back and I will see what I can do.