Diesel treatment

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I dont trust the fuel man or the stations in town so I treat everything no matter if it's #1, #2, blended, etc.

When I was logging and burning 1000 gallons a week I had numerous issues with various suppliers and there supposed #1 fuel, it became cheaper to treat everything than fiddle with gelled equipment and the costly downtime.
 
Power Service gray all year. Hit the feed tractor and skid loader with a dose of Power Service white for this last cold snap to be sure. Also buy all my diesel unless I am traveling from a local supplier that carries premium diesel with good additives and about 15% higher cetane.
 
I used to hear of guys that would add gasoline to their diesel. THAT is a VERY bad thing to do, and will ruin your diesel from about every angle! NEVER add gas to a diesel. I don't care if it "worked" for somebody... NEVER add gas to a diesel.
 
RDFF said:
Kerosene is a cleaner version of #1, with a little less wax (so less lubricity then too). I'd use #1, but either will do the job. I now blend all of my diesel with #1 as I head into winter. Didn't do it quite enough though this year, and got caught in our last cold snap... but then, my pickup also started to gel up with "blended town fuel" that was supposed to be good to -30°. On both, I got some #1 and blended, and put in Howe's. I let that tractor run for half a day at an idle before I could get her to work right again so I could go feed the cattle. And spent about a half a day screwing around to get it ready to go... fuel filters, getting that #1, etc. All had to be done in an unheated shed. Never a fun experience. I generally want to be down to a 50/50 blend for the winter... but I have to guess on how much #2 I have left in my 1000 gallon tank... and apparently I guessed wrong this time! :unsure:
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That is the way I understand it too, about the lubricity. I don't run the rigs at anywhere near 540 during the winter just for that reason. I only cut two of the tractors for winter and I just feed , etc once a day, so I am not going through a large amount of fuel. I've heard some really smart farmers run #2 heating oil (I believe #2 heating oil has a higher ppm of sulfur for the lubricity issue) and cut with Kerosene, but that would be illegal, so I would never do that....... Lesson learner story: One year I thought, "geez, they treat the off road diesel you get at the pump, so why cut it at all with Kerosene" Called the state and the guy told me to be sure it's treated, put some in a plastic clear bottle and put it in your freezer for a while. If it is still fluid after two or so days , it's treated. Did that and filled my tractor. When it got down to the ole "three dog" cold days in January, sure enough she gelled. Course they always die in the worse possible spot, I.e blocking traffic in and out your driveway. Remember the old saying, " if it ain't broke, don't fix it" ? Went back to cutting with Kerosene and never looked back. I shoulda known better. I have gray hair.
 
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chevytaHOE5674 said:
I noticed probably 15 years ago when my supplier filled my bulk tanks he then filled my inlaws heating oil tank from the same compartment. He confirmed to me at the time the only difference was the paperwork.
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Yup... there might be some form of "taxation difference" depending on the use and the state you're operating in. #2 has more BTU's per gallon than #1. So you'll get better "fuel economy" out of the #2, and the higher you blend toward #1, the poorer your fuel economy will be. But #1 will burn alot "cleaner" too... city buses alot of times will run #1 all year round, just so that they don't generate smoke (image thing).
There USED TO BE a heavier grade than #2 for heating oil, which had more BTU's than #2, but it was about the same viscosity. Smoked more though, because of it being a heavier oil, without as many additives to help it burn cleaner, less lubricity agents because it wasn't intended to be run through a high pressure injection system, etc.

But then most of the "oil heating" went by the wayside... not many of those old oil burners left. So they quit that "grade" and just run the regular #2 off-road fuel.

ANYTIME your fuel tank (on equipment too) will be outside long enough to allow the fuel to get down below about 10 degrees (I was going to say 0, but you want a "buffer margin" here), you should be doing SOMETHING to help improve the flow/cloudpoint of that fuel. 10 degrees is where you'll sometimes START to see some clouding (wax crystal formation). Blend it appropriately for your area depending on how cold you expect it to get before you use up the fuel in the tank. If you're gonna get to just a little below 0 (say -10°), a good antigell added before cloudpoint will do you. If you're gonna get colder than that, THEN start adding in the #1... 30% down to -20°, 50% down to -30°, and 70-100% #1 below that... ALL with a good antigel treatment as well.

And if you've still got "summer fuel" in that tank, make SURE that you blend it down/treat it quicker... that is a slightly heavier cut of fuel out of the refining process than it is in winter too. Alot of times truckers will run into this... they might have "summer fuel" down there, longer than we would up here... and that will cause issues when they travel from south Texas to northern MN or Wyoming, etc.
 
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Glad for the post as a reminder because I had maybe 1 oz. left. I reordered and will be putting in my tanks ASAP.

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