Diesel treatment

kenny thomas

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2008
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19,526
City & State/Province
SW tip of Virginia
So far this winter i haven't had any issues with diesel but just in case, what do you folks that live where its really cold use as a treatment? I have issues with water occasionally so that could be a problem. It is rare to get below 0°F here.
 
Our fuel in the winter comes blended for the temps. If I was parking outside I would add some Howe’s or Kleen-Flo fuel conditioner. But being parked inside and heading out with a warm fuel tank makes all the difference as long as we’re running the proper fuel.
No option for inside parking.
 
20 years ago I was a sales rep for a specialty oil company. We had an anti-gel product. Because of my background in AI breeding, and freeze branding, I had access to a nitrogen tank... so in winter, I'd have that filled, and I would test the additives right there in front of the customer... whatever products we had available. The product that I had to sell worked very well as an anti-gel. Obviously, in 20 years, you'd expect the various products to change some... and I expected that the Howe's would perform pretty well AS AN ANTI-GEL... and the Stanadyne. I also expected the PowerService to not do too well, and was surprised that it did as good as it did. And no FPPF in the antigel test (or did it just miss it?)... that always performed pretty well too. Very few others that would do much back then. Most of them were an alcohol based product, which doesn't do hardly ANYTHING at all for "anti-gel", but it DOES help with water. Think "HEET" for your gas tank... just alcohol.... And the PowerService products back then did about the same as "HEET" did. I didn't test for performance with "water", because you shouldn't have water in your fuel anyway, and if you do, you CAN put a bit of alcohol in and that will help, on the cheap... but not the best solution for that either.

I would also put in blended fuel, and even straight #1, which would usually become solid at about -70°F. I could even get pure gas to freeze with the liquid N, but don't know at what temp that was anymore. Water is as difficult an issue as the wax is... look at the video and FOR THAT, pick one that had the smallest droplets. You either want to make the water "settle out" of the fuel (if you have ALOT of water), or you want it to "disperse" into very tiny droplets as a "solution" (water won't settle back out)... but you only want that to be the case if you have a very small amount of water... which hopefully will be the case most of the time. There are some that will do both... allowing only a very small amount to be dispersed in tiny droplets, and then forcing any amount that can't be held in suspension that way to settle out, so you can drain it off the bottom of the tank. In any case, you DON'T want large droplets of water going through your fuel pump and injectors... when it turns to steam as it leaves an injector, it can actually blow the tip right off because of the rapid expansion upon ignition.

Fuel gelling will depend on if the diesel is bio-diesel or not too... soy-based gels up alot faster than non-soy. Soy-based has better lubricity though, for when it's not cold outside, and that's a marked improvement. The negative though, because it is plant-based, is that it also has a tendency to "grow things" in it more, like bacteria and algae.

In winter, I now prefer to run a 50/50 blend, plus a known good antigel additive. Off the shelf, I use Howe's... because I no longer have access easily to the product I was selling back then. Kind of interesting that not much has changed though, in 20 years in this field!
 
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I saw something recently that pointed out that you should not just add an additive to the tank and walk away, thinking you are protected. You should run the engine long enough to make sure the additive circulates through the entire system. If you don't, it can gel in the lines or the filters, even though the fuel in the tank is in good shape.
 
I add this to my big outside fuel tank and put a little in each diesel vehicle/tractor. When I added some to my outside tank the last time I noticed in the clear fuel filter bowl latter on during fill-ups the fuel was dark. I wonder if that wasn't algae/fungus that got killed. Those outside metal tanks will get moisture from sweat. A guy at the flea market had the grey large Power Service for about half price and I bought 10 last year. The current diesel after they took the sulfur out has very little lube, so I always add something on every fill up. I have used several different additives. Getting those pumps rebuilt is expensive. Also, a guy at the flea market has the Lucas fuel lube treatment bottles that sell for $13-15 everywhere else for $7 so I have a hoard of that. I use it in my lawn mowers, vehicles, everything. I have noticed it seems when I use it in my tractors if even helps with power. There is a big markup on this at the retailer.

https://www.zoro.com/biobor-diesel-fuel-additive-biocide-jf-16-oz-jug-diesel-engines-biocide-and-lubricant-bb16ez01us-2/i/G5770716/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=21546635183&productid=G5770716&v=&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21546635183&gbraid=0AAAAADw3hZfm832AJNqC4XIxIUl0JQ5Jm&gclid=CjwKCAiAqKbMBhBmEiwAZ3UboNGY17LAvnS4qadm23-8wnGeurdY2fHP73SrTfBF-N5i9l8z6jbGiBoCe5sQAvD_BwE

1770636939246.png

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...NLEFWIgvJ2LewWFnr3EJpEJyVgItHwoRoC94gQAvD_BwE

1770635467409.png
 
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I add this to my big outside fuel tank and put a little in each diesel vehicle/tractor. When I added some to my outside tank the last time I noticed in the clear fuel filter bowl latter on during fill-ups the fuel was dark. I wonder if that wasn't algae/fungus that got killed. Those outside metal tanks will get moisture from sweat. A guy at the flea market had the grey large Power Service for about half price and I bought 10 last year. The current diesel after they took the sulfur out has very little lube, so I always add something on every fill up. I have used several different additives. Getting those pumps rebuilt is expensive. Also, a guy at the flea market has the Lucas fuel lube treatment bottles that sell for $13-15 everywhere else for $7 so I have a hoard of that. I use it in my lawn mowers, vehicles, everything. I have noticed it seems when I use it in my tractors if even helps with power. There is a big markup on this at the retailer.

https://www.zoro.com/biobor-diesel-fuel-additive-biocide-jf-16-oz-jug-diesel-engines-biocide-and-lubricant-bb16ez01us-2/i/G5770716/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=21546635183&productid=G5770716&v=&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21546635183&gbraid=0AAAAADw3hZfm832AJNqC4XIxIUl0JQ5Jm&gclid=CjwKCAiAqKbMBhBmEiwAZ3UboNGY17LAvnS4qadm23-8wnGeurdY2fHP73SrTfBF-N5i9l8z6jbGiBoCe5sQAvD_BwE

View attachment 65510

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...NLEFWIgvJ2LewWFnr3EJpEJyVgItHwoRoC94gQAvD_BwE

View attachment 65508
I've used Bio Bor and like it. Fuel bowl had stuff in it like tomato sauce that I thought was dead algae.
The Lucas gets used regularly for a lube additive. Or. grey PowerService
 
My cousin worked for Cummins for 25 years or so as a mechanic. He recommended Power Services white jug in the winter and grey jug in the summer. I use it religiously and have never had an issue.
 
Clean and fresh for the win. Water and dirt will stop you in your tracks. Keep the snow away from the fuel cap area before filling and as was said earlier conditioners should not be needed with clean fresh fuel. Conditioner should be added well before it is needed and used as a preventative.

Fuel additive is like using vaccines. When you have to call the vet it gets to another level of ex pence. It is better to prevent if possible.
 
I saw something recently that pointed out that you should not just add an additive to the tank and walk away, thinking you are protected. You should run the engine long enough to make sure the additive circulates through the entire system. If you don't, it can gel in the lines or the filters, even though the fuel in the tank is in good shape.
I have a son-in-law that is much smarter than me. Right before we had the sub-zero weather a couple weeks ago, I put in some additive and topped off with fresh fuel, then drove home. I had also just replaced the filter a couple weeks prior.
Daughter and SIL live close, so I called to suggest he do the same. He put some additive, not sure what kind, but he did not mix it or add fuel, and didn't start the engine. It wouldn't start and still won't start. Not sure what's going on. It's a 2015 F250 with the 6.7
 
One other really important thing about any and ALL of the anti-gel products... you need to add them BEFORE the fuel reaches its cloud point. That's because that is the point at which the wax crystal forms.... and all of the products that do work as an anti-gel... do that by changing the shape of the wax crystal AS IT IS FORMING. Instead of having little fingerlings and sharp points (like a snowflake), it forms in more of a round shape... so they don't "interlock", which keeps them flowing.

There are EMERGENCY treatments that will actually work to "dissolve" the wax that's plugging your filters. PowerService 911, and that Howe's product... Those are kind of "harsh", and not great for the system... but they can work. That's sort of the "easy way" that we'd like to use to unplug them???? supposedly. Your out in the cold, your fuel is gelled and your rig's not running... if I can get her off the road this way, I'm gonna do it (and I would TOO)..... but if they're plugged, your best remedy is to get the rig into a warm area to warm the fuel in the tank up above the cloud point, put in some #1 then (which has a lower cloud point because of less wax... also less lubricating ability then) along with a good anti-gel product, and CHANGE THE FILTERS. If you don't change the filters, they're still likely "half plugged", and you're setting yourself up for another round.

I'm not sure what the deal was with the two samples that had a small layer on top that wasn't "cloudy"... that seemed a bit strange to me, and I'd never seen that in all my years of doing it. Those would be a product that I never saw I assume... but they would also give me some concern. Anytime you've got "separation", you have to ask yourself, WHAT am I separating here? I would tend to suggest, in theory, that whatever those products are, they are the cause of that separation. Now, if it's "water", THAT SHOULD drop to the bottom (heavier specific gravity than oil/fuel), unless it is "dispersed" using a "dispersion agent" which will help to keep those droplets tiny "suspended"... and this will then ONLY allow for a very small amount to remain in suspension, or you're looking at some really expensive repairs. The larger portion of water needs to be settled out... hopefully, your fuel pickup is up above the floor of your tank, so it doesn't get drawn in, and you can drain it off there, till you get clear fuel coming out. And then beyond that, your fuel filters will always be drawing off the top, and the water is supposed to "settle" there in the bowl on the bottom of the filter as well (including in a spin-on).

Water in the fuel is a very bad thing, particularly if it's going through your injector pump and then your injectors. You never want any in there, but you sometimes can get it even just because of condensation on from the air inside the fuel tank. It has a much lower "flash point" (if you will... the temp at which it volatizes) than the fuel... so it turns to steam as it goes through your injectors.... i.e.: rapid expansion... = blown tips on your injectors. And if it's "stored" in your tank for a reasonably long time (depending on temperature, this doesn't have to be terribly long) you can begin to grow an algae at the interface between the water and the oil... a "scum" that is very difficult to fully remove. Fuel jobbers will treat their tanks with a biocide regularly, to prevent this (I sold that too). Most end users don't... but it certainly can happen... not only in your equipment, but in your storage tanks too. If it's a real problem, you first need to do a "shock treatment" of biocide, to kill off all of the algae.... and then you need to pull the "good fuel" off the top, without pulling any of the algae/water in.... and then clean out the tank as best you can... flush... and repeat... to make sure it's now clean and free of all of that scum.

A SMALL amount of this could make it through the system... but it too isn't good (clean, clear fuel ONLY is always best, as has been said), but this will end up plugging up your fuel filters too eventually... which ALSO sets you up for easier gelling... and reduced power, etc.
 
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I saw something recently that pointed out that you should not just add an additive to the tank and walk away, thinking you are protected. You should run the engine long enough to make sure the additive circulates through the entire system. If you don't, it can gel in the lines or the filters, even though the fuel in the tank is in good shape.
Absolutely. Let her run a good long while, to circulate and REcirculate that fuel, to get it blended. And see my post above about the need to use/add these products BEFORE the fuel reaches the cloud point.

An "Arctic Fox" fuel line heater is how many of the OTR truckers address it... fuel line runs through and is surrounded by flowing antifreeze from the water pump system... like your heater hose. And then there's a temp regulator on it so it doesn't "boil the fuel"... you only want it to warm it up to like 70° or so, NOT 160-190.
 
I cut with Kerosene, up to 1/3 of the tank. No issues in 25 years.
Kerosene is a cleaner version of #1, with a little less wax (so less lubricity then too). I'd use #1, but either will do the job. I now blend all of my diesel with #1 as I head into winter. Didn't do it quite enough though this year, and got caught in our last cold snap... but then, my pickup also started to gel up with "blended town fuel" that was supposed to be good to -30°. On both, I got some #1 and blended, and put in Howe's. I let that tractor run for half a day at an idle before I could get her to work right again so I could go feed the cattle. And spent about a half a day screwing around to get it ready to go... fuel filters, getting that #1, etc. All had to be done in an unheated shed. Never a fun experience. I generally want to be down to a 50/50 blend for the winter... but I have to guess on how much #2 I have left in my 1000 gallon tank... and apparently I guessed wrong this time! :unsure: I SHOULD have put some anti-gel additive in along with it just to be safe. AND... I'm wondering now if I didn't add that #1 after we'd already gotten cold (so below the cloud point).

Adding #1 won't change the wax crystals that have already been formed either! If you add it after the cloud point of the #2, the cold wax crystals of the #2 still remain with their sharp interlockable edges, so they can still plug your filters rather than flowing through. You'll have some #1 to pull through with them though, so you MIGHT be OK... and as long as it's running, the circulation of the fuel itself through the system MIGHT be enough to warm that #2 above the cloud point (melting the wax crystals so that they have to REFORM). And blending that #1 by that recirculating THEN AT THAT POINT WILL lower the overall cloud point of the fuel.

The COLD is the problem, USUALLY because of those wax crystals. Once they've accumulated all over your fuel filter media as they're drawn through it, it takes heat to melt them and get them all run through and mixed properly into the fuel again. The other way is a chemical dissolving agent (emergency treatment)... but like I said, those will not be "good" for the system, and should ONLY be used as an "emergency treatment".
 
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