building a shed

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kenojoe

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Need some advice on putting up a small shed. I am going to build a 12' X 24' shed on a slight hillside (drops 1' over 12'). I am usinig 6x6 12' oak posts (coated with tar on bott. 3'). These posts are HEAVY, I'm not sure if I can get all 12 posts in the ground and concreted and have them reasonably sqare and level when I'm done. Would it be possible to put the posts in the holes, frame up the top section of the shed, square it up and then move the bottom of the posts to square it all up then concrete the posts in. This is a flat roof shed by the way. If I was using 4x4's it wouldn't be so bad, but I want it stout! Any suggestions on putting this shed up. Thanks for any help.
 
I've heard that putting concrete around a wooden post will cause it to rot faster since concrete holds moisture.
 
Set the corner posts in the holes and brace them with stakes and boards so they are square and plumb. Then you can run a string around the corner posts to line up the rest. Get them all braced and plumb, then concrete them. You'll struggle to be able to nail anything to a post that isn't set.
 
The best freind you can have outside of a level is a roll of nylon string. would figure out all my corners to start with how wide & deep. drive stakes in at those points get those points close as possible.then run a horizanal with a tape measure like front hole to oppeset rear hole and vice versa that should square you put those post in first set them and measure them again before you put in concrete. level all post then brace them.why do you want a flat roof :?:
 
All of the posts have been coated in heavy tar so I am hoping I'll be dead before they rot. I am using all 3/8" lag bolts to put this shed up so I shouldn't have to worry about things bouncing around. I am using rough cut oak for everything and of coarse it has a slight warp or bow this way or that way. What may be square at the bottom may have a twist at the top. I am afraid that once the posts are in concrete and I start tightening the lag bolts something has got to give if things aren't right. Am I just over complicating this?
 
Well when using rough cut stuff which i do too. you have to really improvise. set all corner post run your string around about knee high or so then at the top all way around you steel can get it fairly square.move all your post around till the stings line up. a level is pretty usless on rough cut thats were a string & a little eyeballing comes in handy. oh yeah be sure to put all the nails in them post your going to now.because after they cure its like driving them in steel ;-)
 
ALACOWMAN":2t19680v said:
oh yeah be sure to put all the nails in them post your going to now.because after they cure its like driving them in steel ;-)

It's not too bad if you predrill the nail holes just a tiny bit smaller then the nails. I'm working with stuff that was cut 70 years ago when the original barns were built. Even the stuff that's only 5-6 years old works better with predrilling

dun
 
Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll go ahead and set the corners and go from there. I usually drill a clearance hole in one piece and drill a smaller hole in the next piece, Rub the lag bolt in a "johnny ring" and they go in slick. If you ever have to take 'em out they come out just as easy. I do the same thing when I hang a gate with the screw in hinge pins.
 
Just like building a pole building...put the poles in the holes, square them and run the lower one or two perlins...this will hold the side spacing and will hold it all together while you pour the concrete...lazy man's way but it works....(check square often, cross measure) be sure to set the level on the posts...nothing like having the short one on the down slope side. Built alot of barns and garages....DMc
 
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