I have an 89 f 250 that we had to replace the clutch in. Had a couple guys from town do it and they got it all switched out with out and trouble. The problem now is that we have no pedal. You push it to the floor and it does not come back, which also means it wont go into gear. We tried to bleed it but its not seeming to work, any suggestions?
1989 f 250 clutch
- Thread starter cleland
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upfrombottom
Well-known member
Either the master-cylinder is bad or the slave cylinder. If you replaced the slave when you replaced the clutch I would look at the master as the culprit. After rereading your post I am inclined to think you may have a problem with the linkage i.e. return spring. I don't know how you could bleed it properly without it returning.
novatech
Well-known member
I don't know specifically about the truck. If it has a slave cylinder the ones I have seen are independent of the master cylinder. The slave cylinder with the reservoir is actually the pump and there is an additional cylinder at the clutch linkage. Sometimes you have to bleed them at the bottom cylinder as well as the slave. Keep in mind I don't know squat about your particular truck.
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upfrombottom
Well-known member
If I don't have my wires crossed, which seems to happen from time to time. The slave cylinder (the one actually doing the work) on this truck is inside the bell housing with the throwout bearing attached directly to it. The cylinder itself, is round and fits around the input shaft of the transmission. The bleeder for it sticks out through the side of the bell housing.
novatech
Well-known member
I think your right. I googled this up.upfrombottom":1p9xc7my said:
http://www.clutchwizard.com/fordtruck.htm
Angus Cowman
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A BIG mistake people make when replacing clutches with Hyd master and slave cylinders is they don't replace them when they replace the clutch
I learned this the hard way
so you are money ahead to replace the clutch,pressure plate throwout bearing and clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder at the same time
because you are putting more pressure on the worn master and slave cylinder and they will fail
also bleeding a clutch is alot different than bleeding brakes you DON'T pump them to bleed pull the pedal all the way up then push it to the floor and hold and have someone release the bleeder screw retighten the screw and repeat process
also if it has alot of air you can loosen the bleeder and let the fluid gravity flow for awhile then try bleeding as I described previously
good luck
I learned this the hard way
so you are money ahead to replace the clutch,pressure plate throwout bearing and clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder at the same time
because you are putting more pressure on the worn master and slave cylinder and they will fail
also bleeding a clutch is alot different than bleeding brakes you DON'T pump them to bleed pull the pedal all the way up then push it to the floor and hold and have someone release the bleeder screw retighten the screw and repeat process
also if it has alot of air you can loosen the bleeder and let the fluid gravity flow for awhile then try bleeding as I described previously
good luck
On 5 speed Fords of that year model there were two different clutch slave cylinder configurations. The gas trucks had an internal slave cylinder which you had to pull the tranny to replace, pos. All diesels from those approximate years that I've owned/worked on had external slave cylinders. There is a bleeder screw on top of the slave cylinder, takes a small allen wrench and a mirror to find where to put it. Fill up your reservoir, cap it off and pump the pedal manually by hand, pulling it up each time til you build some resistance. Have an assistant, or a 2x4, hold the pedal to the floor and release the pressure on the slave with the allen. After the pressure is released tighten the plug and repeat. IF your components are in working order this will bleed them. Ford will tell you the components must be replaced as a unit, but each piece can be replaced individually by knocking out the roll pin connecting the line to each cylinder.
On a different note, those year model trucks are prone to break the firewall next to where the clutch master cylinder is attached, giving you the appearance of a faulty clutch. My '87 did that once, new clutch and master cylinder before I figured it out. Have someone sit inside and work the pedal in and out while you look inside the engine bay near the master cyl. If the firewall flexes it's cracked. The plug welds where the two panels overlap fail, you can weld the seams with a mig welder. Just be careful, when I welded mine I looked up and the inside of the truck was full of smoke. Seems the firewall interior insulation is not fireproof by any means...
One other thing to check is where the master cylinder rod attaches to the clutch pedal bell crank, it's on the other side of the brake pedal close to the accelerator. There's a bushing on the stud where the rod attaches, it wears out and the stud on your clutch pedal arm wears to the point your cylinder rod will not stay attached any more. There are kits available online which replaces the stud and eyelet with a heim joint setup, about 40 bucks.
On a different note, those year model trucks are prone to break the firewall next to where the clutch master cylinder is attached, giving you the appearance of a faulty clutch. My '87 did that once, new clutch and master cylinder before I figured it out. Have someone sit inside and work the pedal in and out while you look inside the engine bay near the master cyl. If the firewall flexes it's cracked. The plug welds where the two panels overlap fail, you can weld the seams with a mig welder. Just be careful, when I welded mine I looked up and the inside of the truck was full of smoke. Seems the firewall interior insulation is not fireproof by any means...
One other thing to check is where the master cylinder rod attaches to the clutch pedal bell crank, it's on the other side of the brake pedal close to the accelerator. There's a bushing on the stud where the rod attaches, it wears out and the stud on your clutch pedal arm wears to the point your cylinder rod will not stay attached any more. There are kits available online which replaces the stud and eyelet with a heim joint setup, about 40 bucks.
JHH
Well-known member
cfpinz is telling you right. Just put one in last week. I hate bleeding the ranger clutches they suck.
Just be sure to pump it by hand not your foot.If you pump it really fast it sometimes helps to get the air to the top.
Just be sure to pump it by hand not your foot.If you pump it really fast it sometimes helps to get the air to the top.
