Welding Rods

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Atimm693

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What brand is everyone using?

Been using Forney 6013 3/32 for the thin stuff and 6011 1/8 and 5/32 for everything else. A couple years ago something changed with the 6013s, went from a black carton to red, and I had a lot of trouble with them. Just get weld on both sides of the joint and a puddle of slag in the middle. Had to go back and fix a lot of welds that cracked from them.

I have tried 7014s and felt like they left a pretty scabby/crappy weld if the steel wasn't clean, and I had difficulty running them vertical.

The local farm store stopped carrying Forney altogether and switched to KT. Those rods are junk all the way around, even the 6011s. I just finished off my last 50lb box of Forneys, so I'm looking at different options.
 

gbfarm

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Hobart 6011's have worked well for me. Atom arc 7018's. I've not used 6013's recently
 

jltrent

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I always buy Lincoln and they seem to work good. I use 6013 on AC and 7018 on DC...Skyhightree is a certified welder and he can add a lot here. My welding is not the prettiest, but I seem to have good luck with it holding. I use a mig welder mostly, unless the metal is thick. That mig welder has paid for itself many times over.
 

Redgully

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I use CIG rods but doubt they sell them over there, really good rods. Had some Chinese rods and were terrible, just spit at you and leave porous welds. I mostly use a flux core mig as it welds through paint and rust. I recently was told the fumes from flux core mig are pretty bad for you though.
 

cfpinz

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I use 7018's for anything I can anymore, never noticed a whole lot of difference between brands. Maybe that means I can't weld and am too dumb to know the difference........
 

cfpinz

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hurleyjd said:
A lot depends on the welding machine you are using.

That's the truth!

My welding instruction consisted of a Lincoln AC buzzbox and a broken disc blade. Dad gave me a handful of 601x's that had been laying out in the open atmosphere shop for the past 20 years and said "Have fun" as he walked away. Thanks.

The first time I got to use a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC unit I fell in love, didn't take me long to save up the money for one.
 

skyhightree1

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jltrent said:
I always buy Lincoln and they seem to work good. I use 6013 on AC and 7018 on DC...Skyhightree is a certified welder and he can add a lot here. My welding is not the prettiest, but I seem to have good luck with it holding. I use a mig welder mostly, unless the metal is thick. That mig welder has paid for itself many times over.
hurleyjd said:
A lot depends on the welding machine you are using.

My personal favorite that I get the best welds is Lincoln Excalibur then would come atom arc. I have used many other brands but nothing touches them. I weld on alot of heavy equipment and they really impress me. The rod you use in particular depends on what you are welding in particular.

Hurley is right on the machine as alot of buzz boxes are Ac welders and Ac welding has its place but 99% of the welds I do are DC + which is great. If you are going to have a stick welder or buying one make sure you have it you'll agree with me once you weld something.
 

skyhightree1

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cfpinz said:
I use 7018's for anything I can anymore, never noticed a whole lot of difference between brands. Maybe that means I can't weld and am too dumb to know the difference........

When you weld a ton you'll notice how easy to remove slag and such. There is major differences in some cases. 7018 is my general purpose rod I use most I use some 6011 it's not pretty but will hold. I generally weld then grind 6011.
 

skyhightree1

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Atimm693 said:
What brand is everyone using?

Been using Forney 6013 3/32 for the thin stuff and 6011 1/8 and 5/32 for everything else. A couple years ago something changed with the 6013s, went from a black carton to red, and I had a lot of trouble with them. Just get weld on both sides of the joint and a puddle of slag in the middle. Had to go back and fix a lot of welds that cracked from them.

I have tried 7014s and felt like they left a pretty scabby/crappy weld if the steel wasn't clean, and I had difficulty running them vertical.

The local farm store stopped carrying Forney altogether and switched to KT. Those rods are junk all the way around, even the 6011s. I just finished off my last 50lb box of Forneys, so I'm looking at different options.

I think you should try 10# of 7018 Lincoln Excalibur if you have a DC+ machine. Every rod had to pass the rating test so if getting poor welds or cracking chances are you aren't getting good burn in and machine needs to be turned up some so it fuses better. In welding school instructors taught us some rods will weld dirty metal fine but if you can clean it up which would take 30 seconds to get off on the best start possible why wouldn't you? I'm not saying your issues dirty metal but take a lil extra time and clean it.
 

skyhightree1

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I will add 7018's are not friendly or restarts so I keep a file around or take across the concrete floor to clean and go back to welding. I'd like to add I'm pro Miller on welders I have the big unit on my service truck. At home since Miller owns Hobart I have Hobart in my shop saves $ and they weld the same my stick at the shop is comparable to the thunderbolt. If I get a chance I will make a video of using 7018 Excalibur after I get out the tree.
 
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Atimm693

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skyhightree1 said:
Atimm693 said:
What brand is everyone using?

Been using Forney 6013 3/32 for the thin stuff and 6011 1/8 and 5/32 for everything else. A couple years ago something changed with the 6013s, went from a black carton to red, and I had a lot of trouble with them. Just get weld on both sides of the joint and a puddle of slag in the middle. Had to go back and fix a lot of welds that cracked from them.

I have tried 7014s and felt like they left a pretty scabby/crappy weld if the steel wasn't clean, and I had difficulty running them vertical.

The local farm store stopped carrying Forney altogether and switched to KT. Those rods are junk all the way around, even the 6011s. I just finished off my last 50lb box of Forneys, so I'm looking at different options.

I think you should try 10# of 7018 Lincoln Excalibur if you have a DC+ machine. Every rod had to pass the rating test so if getting poor welds or cracking chances are you aren't getting good burn in and machine needs to be turned up some so it fuses better. In welding school instructors taught us some rods will weld dirty metal fine but if you can clean it up which would take 30 seconds to get off on the best start possible why wouldn't you? I'm not saying your issues dirty metal but take a lil extra time and clean it.

I was always told that you needed a rod oven for 7018s, which is why I haven't tried them.

If I turn the machine up any more then I am at risk of burning through with those 6013s.
 

skyhightree1

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Atimm693 said:
I was always told that you needed a rod oven for 7018s, which is why I haven't tried them.

If I turn the machine up any more then I am at risk of burning through with those 6013s.

It is recommended yes do I keep them in a oven no they are in plastic rod holders inside my house. They don't like moisture very much. I just keep mine away from moisture and in room temperature no issue yet
 

gbfarm

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Keeping them in a sealed container works good
If they do draw moisture just stick them in the oven at 200 degrees a couple hours. cool and put back in container
 

Cmitchell

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trash the 6013 , 6011 for dirty metal 7018 for clean heavier steel. Lincoln ,esab are some of the best.
 

cfpinz

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skyhightree1 said:
When you weld a ton you'll notice how easy to remove slag and such. There is major differences in some cases. 7018 is my general purpose rod I use most I use some 6011 it's not pretty but will hold. I generally weld then grind 6011.

7018's are easy to chip, and they just leave such a pretty weld. Not to mention the strength, 70k psi vs. 60k for the 60xx rods. As you already mentioned, they aren't the easiest rods to restart. I'll drag them across something rough, and I've noticed that they'll burn up into the flux more than other rods.
 

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