Water Question for the North

[aaronstiff]

If you have a tank and need to heat it, get the 1500 watt heater that fits into the drain hole near the bottom of the tank. Cattle like to play with the floating ones and pull them out.

I've always found too that the floating ones rust (the cages). The drain hole heaters don't have the cage so they don't rust.

I did have a cow step in the water tank once and snap it off, but that was when their yard was full of snow so they didn't have a lot of space to move around if there was any bullying.

 

[fasttommy]

The design of the Cobett is kinda unique in that the heat tube that is transferring ground source heat (warmer air from 6-10' underground) is actually part of the waterer housing itself, so the heat tube goes up and around the water bowl. So the only part of the water that is exposed to ambient air temp is the water surface. Yes you will get a little surface ice at times but just break it and away you go. No frozen ball or anything. Also very easy to remove the bowl for cleaning, maintenance or repair. I'm in northern MN so it gets pretty cold and the folks that I know of that have them really like them.

 

[Stickney94]

I have Cobett, Jug, and Ritchie waterers. I've had and been around concrete waterers as well (Bohlman).

In short -- in the north it is ALL about the riser tube. Big, deep, and insulated. Get the riser tube deep and insulated will make any waterer work well.

Cobett energy free will have the surface freeze -- usually for me it either needs to be sub -10 or 10 degrees with high winds. But you just break the ice. I've been pleasantly surprised by our JUG waterer. It's been very trouble free. The Ritchie was a pain for several years, but I improved the riser tube and it's been working well for almost 2 years. I won't buy another concrete waterer if I can help it.

Tubs, hoses, and floating heaters have their purpose as well. But if you can install a permanent waterer put in the deepest, widest, and most insulated riser tube you can.

 

[Silver]

Our troughs just have regular culverts set underneath them. I don't use heat trace on the water lines, but rather hang a heat light in it pointed downwards.
In my experience the single most important thing (besides that light) is to have the trough sealed up properly so no drafts get under it. If mice are getting in then so is the cold air.