Vermeer 504SI Questions

[dvcochran]

I finished baling 116 bales yesterday/today with my 504SI. It went pretty well until the last 20 or so bales. I struggled through and got finished but man was it annoying. It would not cut the strings. The problem was/is that the twine arm was not hitting the plunger that brings the blades down to make the cut. I will try to explain what I am seeing in a way that makes sense. I am going to reference things as if you are facing the front of the baler standing at the tongue.

This is a twin tie baler and the twine arm that pivots from the left side has a square pad that pushed the cutter plunger. The arm is going over the plunger. However, (and this has been going on for a while) when the arms are extended into the pickup the left arm is in the path of the pickup teeth pretty hard initially. So the arm is too low when extended and too high when retracted. The right arm is hit by the pickup teeth but not very bad, part of this I think is because the right arm swings Above the left arm.

I had the bad idea of heating the twine tube and adjusting it but this only made it worse about not hitting the plunger so I moved it back. Is there some adjustment that can be made to affect the pivot differently on each end? It looks to me as if the twine arms and cutter system is all on the same frame.



Another lesser issue is with programming the tie cycle. The baler has the equal fill/auto tie monitor. I can go into the 'learn' mode and teach the monitor a tie sequence but it will loose the sequence when batter power is removed from the monitor. It there a way to 'save' the tie sequence?

 

[cfpinz]

I'm of no help on the latter question, but I've had similar troubles with an "L" baler on the first. There were turnbuckle style links that could be used to adjust the position/overlap of each twine tie arm individually on my baler, and I'm betting yours would be the same as those balers are very similar. They were near the end of the linear actuator (electric cylinder so to speak). I adjusted mine several times in an attempt to make it hit the square steel plates which pivot the knives into place.

I noticed my twine arms got "stiffer" as time went on, to the point they wouldn't return home far enough to cut the twine at one point. I pulled the whole twine tie assembly from the baler (really easy to do so don't be intimidated), and found all of the pivot points had rusted enough to bind things up terribly. Disassembled everything, brushed it out good with wire brushes on a cordless drill, and covered it in Never-Sieze before reassembly. Worked better than it did brand new, and was still going strong when I sold it.

Hope this helps.

 

[ClodHopper37869]

On my old 505SI, the twine tubes that slide thur the tubes, got gummed up with grass sap, squirt some diesel fuel inum and cycle several times, will usually last several days, Thats ezr than taking apart and cleaning.