crossbreed
Well-known member
We welded on 12’ gates on the end to create a bud box environment. We can however close both gates Medina style which lengthen the chute.
Updating our Working Facilities
- Thread starter artesianspringsfarm
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crossbreed
Well-known member
The place we purchased gives you one with a 10' gate but will sell you additional gates with hinges you just have to weld on. We added one 10' gate so we could have exit both directions short of the head gate. Big cows or bull don't have to go through head gate if all we are doing is pouring wormer or fly powder
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This in one they offer for $5,680. I'd want a horse but it would do for lease place.He post under Abram Wieler on FB
My outfit has a portable set with a sheeted alley and head gate made by Rawhide that is invaluable to us. (pic from website)
We've used it in countless configurations. There's a big label sticker above the heydralic controls that says something like " one person set up in 10 minutes" which is probably true on a level, paved parking lot. But even I can set it up or fold it up by myself in a reasonable amount of time (maybe twenty minutes), and I'm not particularly strong for a 52 yo woman. The biggest problem/complaint I have is that the cows can shift the pens around on the wheels if they get excited or if one is a bit goofy. Our cows don't really get excited, so it's only been a problem for us once, and not a bad problem at that.
In this video we've got it configured into three pens, using one of the end panels as a cut gate as the cowboys sort them and push them out of another corral.
(My heifer, Bubby, makes an appearance at 0:22.)
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@Spot & Bubby that's a nice setup. I know several folks that have them but I've never used a set. Good video too.
GoWyo
Well-known member
We bought the WW Express portable corral last summer. Lease pasture has 6 different pastures and we set it up in 4 of them as we rotated pastures. Used it to pull a stray and one of the bulls in one pasture, preconditioned calves in the next one, weaned calves and preg checked in the one after that and shipped cows home from the final pasture. Beat the heck out of hauling portable panels and setting them up. Ours is the +3 model and fit 55 pairs with a little room. 70 pairs would be about the limit on the big pen side of it.
Ok. I'll look under that. I did the business name. They have a FB also.
What do you mean by arched feet? Thanks
They list most stuff on Facebook Market Place. There's 4 or 5 places in Petty, Tx off hwy 82 selling the same stuff. Allot of the stuff is being shipped from Mexico. They have some nice hydraulic squeeze chutes for $7,500. I'll most likely buy a truck loading ramp from them.
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artesianspringsfarm
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Just enough so that they arent wobbling around on ground that isnt perfectly level and they dont work like skids to slide, they stick where they are set.
Thank you sir
RDFF
Well-known member
Just a few design differences to be aware of...
1. In both of the panels above, the "arched feet" are important, as has been stated, to help the panel stand more firmly, particularly on slightly uneven ground (it's never like a floor), and they keep the feet from being "skis" that then allow the panel move around easily from cattle pressure. They don't have to be so "arched" that the centers are WELL ABOVE the ground (notice that difference between the two above)... just even an inch is enough, but having some arch IS really important to the stability of the panel.
2. Both panels above are "full framed", making for a much more rigid panel, stronger, less apt to be bent. Cheaper ones will eliminate the heavy rail across the bottom and will weld all of the horizontals to the verticals to gain rigidity that's lost without that "full frame". They'll also be the lightest in weight (use the least amount of steel = less $$$). You get what you pay for, in most cases.
3. Notice how many cross rails there are in each... Typically, the one on the left with 4 center rails will end up with wider spacing between them... more potential for calves to try to go through. Most will have either 4, 5 or 6 cross rails. Occasionally you might find some with 7, usually using 3/4" rods then.
4. Notice the diameter of the sucker rod they use for the cross rails... 3/4", 7/8", and 1" usually. Heavier is better, results in less potential for bending them, and adds weight to the panel making it "more stable"... harder for the animals to "push around". If you're concerned about weight of the panel (too heavy???), keep in mind that a lighter weight panel is easier to move around... both for the cattle....... and for the man, like if YOU want to slide one around for some reason. Most of these are too heavy to be moving practically by hand anyway. However, WE do move one because that's how we let animals into the corral... we open up a 24' panel (nice large opening), swing it closed when they've all gotten inside. More on that to follow. So for that reason, I DO appreciate the design of that ONE particular panel, for that ONE SPOT where we use it.
5. Height. Often, fewer cross rails will also be found in SHORTER panels... commonly only 60" tall, instead of 66" or 72" tall. Taller is better, discourages animals from thinking about jumping.
6. It's difficult to see in the image above on the left, but the top and bottom rails on this one are just laid "over the ends" of the verticals... with an open pipe end, and the verticals between them. Structurally this difference isn't too important... but it makes for a "sharper corner" for critters or people to get caught on, vs. a mitred corner, as shown in the third image. Mitred makes for a nicer, more "finished" panel.
7. Pay attention to the chain keyslots. The ones like in the third image are really nice to work with. Some have a zig-zag slot... their the worst IMO, others will have other patterns. This style keyslot in the third image is what I've found is the easiest, most pleasant to work with, nicest to take open if you're needing to.
8. Chains... some use whimpy chains, some use good heavy chains, and you want them to have plenty of length. Sometimes you might want to wrap around the joint double... or double back over a cross rod, etc. You'll have places where you might want to make a corner where you'll have 4 panels all coming together in one joint. You want the chain to be able to accomodate that need.
9. Notice how many verticals. Panel on the left has 4, panel on the right has 5, some may even have as many as 6. More verticals means less distance to span with the horizontals, less opportunity for bending them. This becomes even more important if you're cross rails are the lighter rods.
10. Notice how the verticals are placed. In the panel on the left, they don't run through all the way down to the feet, in the panel on the right, they do. Even if the "legs" in the panel on the right are welded on underneath the bottom rail as a separate "leg part" from the vertical above, because there's a vertical right there directly on top of it, the panel itself, and the leg itself will still be stronger and more rigid if a vertical is connected at the same point on the frame as the leg.
11. Pay attention to how the cross rails are installed. The cheaper panels will typically have the rails placed on the outside of the verticals, with a "clip" welded onto the vertical and the rail running through it. This makes for another place for the animal, and perhaps more importantly, the man to potentially get caught on (and other things too)... they're just not as "smooth"... or "finished". Often, particularly with the lighter cross rodded panels, and particularly with the non-full framed panels, they'll also weld the rod at that clip. This does help to compensate for the otherwise "weaker panels" lack of rigidity, but it weakens the rod at that weld point. I've got several of these where that rod has gotten broken at that weld. Cross rods that are placed THROUGH the vertical and left free floating maintains all of the stress of the panel on the frame, rather than spreading that stress onto the rods.
12. Leg position... Some panels will have one leg placed right on the end, with the second about 5-6' in from the other end. I prefer the legs like shown on these two... about 5' in from the ends. When the animals pressure the panels, these will stay in place the best, because of how one panel interacts with the next that it's tied to. But this could be a matter of personal preference. The BIGGER difference goes back to what I referred to in #4 above. If you have a leg on the END, that gives you a pivot point on the end, if you want to open up a panel to let animals in/out. If your legs aren't on the end, you won't be able to pivot that panel around, period. You have to pick up the ENTIRE panel to move it (again, because of how that panel interacts with the adjacent panel... but that's what makes it more difficult for the animals to move them then too). We DO use one, 3/4' rodded full framed panel (so it's slightly lighter weight) with the leg on the one END as a gate. That one also doesn't have the arch on the "foot"... which makes it easier to pivot it on that leg. This panel happens to be a 72" tall unit with the leg that would normally be 5-6' in from the non-pivot end broken off (leg was welded onto the frame NOT at a vertical... don't know how that leg got broke off... it was that way when it came to my place... just know THAT it was broken off, and recognize how this panel was built...and that that then WAS a "weaker point"), so that "non-pivoting end" (the swinging end) just sits on the ground... but the panel is tall enough that it doesn't tempt them to jump. We just slip a hand-cart dolly under the panel to both lift it and drag it around ( it's too heavy to reasonably lift... but I HAVE done it, and it's not TOO bad with two guys). That hand cart works really well for this though... easy to lift the panel and pull it around because of the leverage that the cart provides.
13. Weep holes. Anywhere that water could accumulate inside of a closed pipe end, there should be "weep holes" drilled to allow water to escape, so you don't end up splitting the pipe.
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crossbreed
Well-known member
Petty is where I got mine
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Wowza you put a lot of thought into simple panels. I have tons of the simple top rail only panels with 3/4" sucker rod and arched feed. Only time they get bent is with my pallet forks. Ha
If I have an animal that attempts to jump a 5' top rail, or bend the sucker rod bottom trying to go under then that's a one way ticket to the sale barn. No reason to keep that kind of behavior around.
If I have an animal that attempts to jump a 5' top rail, or bend the sucker rod bottom trying to go under then that's a one way ticket to the sale barn. No reason to keep that kind of behavior around.
those are nice, mine don't have mitered corners
RDFF
Well-known member
I
But if you were already aware of all of these differences when you went to buy some, and you had a CHOICE between panels (the cheap ones... NOT full frame, open ended corners, 4 3/4" rails welded over the face of the verticals with a clip, 5' tall, 4 verticals, zig-zag chain slot, no weep holes..., and the "best ones"... full frame, mitred corners, 5 or 6 1" rails drilled through the verticals, 5 1/2' tall, 5 or 6 verticals, the good chain slot, with weep holes..., both sitting there being sold side by side), and there was $100 difference per panel between them in price, which would you buy?
And if you were in a position to be LOOKING for panels, you'd sure like to know WHAT to look for, if you weren't already aware of the possible differences available, if you're willing to seek them out. That's what this forum is about... sharing our "good stuff"... and steering others away from what we don't like. I've seen lots of them... and HAVE 4 different types in my corral right now. I won't ever buy any more of what I'm labeling as the "cheaper panels", because I've seen the difference between them and the "good ones".
We have a local dealer that has sought out "the good ones" (gets them from Borderline Fabrication by the semi-load)... and so most guys around here also know that there's the cheap ones that the sale barn and everybody else is selling, and then there's the "good ones" that he's selling. The guys that know, know to get them from him. PLENTY of them still get sold from the sale barn because they're "cheaper"... but most who find out about these differences would never buy them again... just because these differences make them "better". They're getting well enough known around here by now that I wouldn't want to try to sell my "cheap ones" on an auction too bad, because the demand is for the "good ones". And most know that eventually, there'll be some "good ones used" that'll come available... and if not, they'll just buy new ones from the local dealer.
Everybody knows that they all "work", for the most part... but the "good ones" just work better. I'm just sharing the points that I've found I like and don't like, to be helpful to those who may not be aware of these differences. All panels are NOT created equal. As far as jumping... most of the time, if the fence is high enough, they won't even consider it, but if it appears "possible", eventually somebody's gonna give it a shot. I prefer "wreckproof", rather than "a wreck only once in awhile". ;)
I understand and get it... like most of us, you have what you have, and they've been working for you.
But if you were already aware of all of these differences when you went to buy some, and you had a CHOICE between panels (the cheap ones... NOT full frame, open ended corners, 4 3/4" rails welded over the face of the verticals with a clip, 5' tall, 4 verticals, zig-zag chain slot, no weep holes..., and the "best ones"... full frame, mitred corners, 5 or 6 1" rails drilled through the verticals, 5 1/2' tall, 5 or 6 verticals, the good chain slot, with weep holes..., both sitting there being sold side by side), and there was $100 difference per panel between them in price, which would you buy?
And if you were in a position to be LOOKING for panels, you'd sure like to know WHAT to look for, if you weren't already aware of the possible differences available, if you're willing to seek them out. That's what this forum is about... sharing our "good stuff"... and steering others away from what we don't like. I've seen lots of them... and HAVE 4 different types in my corral right now. I won't ever buy any more of what I'm labeling as the "cheaper panels", because I've seen the difference between them and the "good ones".
We have a local dealer that has sought out "the good ones" (gets them from Borderline Fabrication by the semi-load)... and so most guys around here also know that there's the cheap ones that the sale barn and everybody else is selling, and then there's the "good ones" that he's selling. The guys that know, know to get them from him. PLENTY of them still get sold from the sale barn because they're "cheaper"... but most who find out about these differences would never buy them again... just because these differences make them "better". They're getting well enough known around here by now that I wouldn't want to try to sell my "cheap ones" on an auction too bad, because the demand is for the "good ones". And most know that eventually, there'll be some "good ones used" that'll come available... and if not, they'll just buy new ones from the local dealer.
Everybody knows that they all "work", for the most part... but the "good ones" just work better. I'm just sharing the points that I've found I like and don't like, to be helpful to those who may not be aware of these differences. All panels are NOT created equal. As far as jumping... most of the time, if the fence is high enough, they won't even consider it, but if it appears "possible", eventually somebody's gonna give it a shot. I prefer "wreckproof", rather than "a wreck only once in awhile". ;)
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chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Both sitting side by side with $100 difference in price? I'm buying the cheaper ones hands down. I already own nearly 75 of them and have yet to have an animal challenge them or wreck them in the ~10 years I've owned them. Only welding and repairs I've done are from equipment handling. So $100 bucks saved on the "cheap ones" buys me more footage.
I also don't own and will never own wild or hard to handle cattle. I have 2 small boys who like to help and life's to short to worry about if an animal is crazy and is going to jump a panel or something stupid. My 7yo son helped me run 60ish head thru last Sunday and not once did I worry about him in with me and cows.
So if I need 6' tall fully framed panels to contain an animal it will only be one time as she's on her way to the sale barn or butcher.
I also don't own and will never own wild or hard to handle cattle. I have 2 small boys who like to help and life's to short to worry about if an animal is crazy and is going to jump a panel or something stupid. My 7yo son helped me run 60ish head thru last Sunday and not once did I worry about him in with me and cows.
So if I need 6' tall fully framed panels to contain an animal it will only be one time as she's on her way to the sale barn or butcher.
RDFF
Well-known member
Great Chevy, I'm very glad that they're perfect for your operation and that you certainly seem very happy with them. You make a good point about "more footage"... that may well be the higher priority for some, and like you, I'm glad that all have the freedom to make that choice. I never intended to tell anybody what they should or shouldn't be buying, nor did I intend to somehow put down anyone who might make a different choice than I might. If it seemed like I did that I apologize. I only wanted to point out some of the differences in what's available out there, for those who may not have been aware of the many potential options. Many of the folks that I talk to in grazing groups, etc., don't seem to know alot about these differences. I hope that there are some engaged here as well that may have found it helpful.
