Tractor Swimming. Need help

[CowpokeJ]

I took my tractor swimming. Not by design. There is water in the engine. Can I crack the fuel injector lines and turn it by hand to get it out? Or is it easy to take the head off? Kubota M4700. I drained every single fluid I have on the tractor.

 

[Anonymous]

You'll have to remove the injectors break all the fuel lines loose, bar it over to get as much water out as possible. Then dump a tbsp of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, bar it over a few times. Then add engine oil back in the crank case, and spin it over with the key. Blow the lfuel lines out, dry the fuel tank, replace the filter. Drain the engine oil back out, refill, fill all the fluids back, and pray. Worst problem your going to have is wiring and electrical components. Don't attempt to start until all those are bone dry.

 

[Red Bull Breeder]

Just how bad did it suck water?? If it sucked up enough to kill it getting the water out may be the least of your troubles.

 

[bigbull338]

also pull your oil stick an see if water is in the oil.if the swim was bad enough the motor maybe blown.

 

[lavacarancher]

Just how bad did it suck water?? If it sucked up enough to kill it getting the water out may be the least of your troubles.

Red Bull is right. Liquids don't compress very well so if it was runnin' when it went for a swim you could have serious problems. We'll keep our fingers crossed that cleanin' it up will be all that's necessary.

 

[tytower]

Now there is a bit of jumping to conclusions here.

The fuel system is a sealed pressurised system that will survive a strong dunking.
No work should be necessary on lines filters injectors pumps etc unless water actually got inside the diesel tank. It has a sealed top on the tank too.

Water might get into the crankcase but it will have the oil floating on top so drain the sump and if it comes out oil there is no water in there . If it comes out water drain it until oil comes out. Water can only get in if the breather is the old type that feeds down to the ground and then probably not until the motor stopped. Nowadays it is fed back in to the inlet side of things.

All the rest will dry out (starter,alternator,electrical stuff) and might need some WD40.

Gearbox and diffs etc ,same thing ,the water will separate if left to stand and will come out the drain plug first.

You did not need to drain all the fluids first. Better way is as above . Get the motor restarted first then if water did get in change any contaminated oils . Radiator ,brakes ,clutch are all sealed.

 

[Anonymous]

If he wants toi do it right all the fluids do need to be drained. My description of what to do was based on the premise that he sucked water thru the airbox. Most diesel engines won't bend a rod or anything catastrophic, but they will hydrlock, thays why I would suggest he pull the injectors and bar it over. The mystery oil is for corrsion from sitting wet.

 

[Kingfisher]

If he wants toi do it right all the fluids do need to be drained. My description of what to do was based on the premise that he sucked water thru the airbox. Most diesel engines won't bend a rod or anything catastrophic, but they will hydrlock, thays why I would suggest he pull the injectors and bar it over. The mystery oil is for corrsion from sitting wet.

Hello. What do you think happens when one Hydro locks? It bends the rod...........a Kubota will kink the rod and
still run but have a vibration...........

 

[Anonymous]

Hydrolock simply means the waters inability to compress stoppped the engine. Rarely does it bend a rod on a diesel. Gas engines more often, but even then not all the time

 

[tytower]

Yep suppose thats all applicable .
cowpoke did not say if it got in that far. If it did then again draining the sump and turning over slowly with a bar would remove most of the water if any in the cylinders. Then put engine oil in and start and run it asap

 

[novatech]

I have bought and sold several pieces of equipment like this. The hydraulic system needs to be flushed completely not just drained. The longer it takes the more harm it will cause. My experience is that if you wait to long the hydraulic system looses a lot of power or could be completely ruined. With no oil in the system rust will form very fast. Even very small amounts of rust will cause fluid bypass and wear on seals.

 

[CowpokeJ]

Yep suppose thats all applicable .
cowpoke did not say if it got in that far. If it did then again draining the sump and turning over slowly with a bar would remove most of the water if any in the cylinders. Then put engine oil in and start and run it asap

ok, i took off the gas tank. pulled off the glow plugs, and still couldn't get it to turn over by hand. May not have had enough power. We had two long wrenches hooked together.

 

[Anonymous]

Not a good sign....what were the rpms when you went in?

 

[CowpokeJ]

i dont remember. i pulled the starter also. thinking it may have shorted and actuated. it was fine.

 

[JHH]

i dont remember. i pulled the starter also. thinking it may have shorted and actuated. it was fine.

Is it in neutral and not in gear

 

[alacattleman]

Yep suppose thats all applicable .
cowpoke did not say if it got in that far. If it did then again draining the sump and turning over slowly with a bar would remove most of the water if any in the cylinders. Then put engine oil in and start and run it asap

ok, i took off the gas tank. pulled off the glow plugs, and still couldn't get it to turn over by hand. May not have had enough power. We had two long wrenches hooked together.

does this have glow plugs to each cylinder,,, we use to get them in here all the time hydro locked with out any breaking or bending

 

[Anonymous]

I sure hope he has at least gotten the water out of the cylinders by now. If he hasn't the rings and walls may be toast

 

[tytower]

If it is out of gear then it should turn one way or another .Forward or back,does not matter. Usually you can turn them with the fan blade and press on the belt . spanner on the front usually easy .but if you operated the starer too it may be jammed . remove it ,only three bolts.

If motor still won´t turn remove injectors and put a straw down into cylinder and see if it comes out wet . Pour some diesel into each cylinder and let sit . It could be the water got in and there is rust already holding the pistons. It could be you bent a conrod and it is hitting on one side stopping movement but if this is the case usually it will go the opposite way.

The motor should talk to you now so you just have to learn how to listen to it or get someone who can!

On the water in the hydraulics , how far up the beast did the water come ? Where does your pumping oil sit on your tractor?

 

[CowpokeJ]

Ok, couldn't get it to turn. took off the valve covers, fi lines, head. water &oil on a couple of pistons. got it cleaned. last piston is broke at the wrist pin. Not sure abt the rod. Waiting on help to pull the mfwd drive and oil pan, and cross member for fe loader. got it oiled down, and lightly sanded some surface rust. Other four cylinders are fine.

 

[Anonymous]

Ouch on the break but should be easy enuf to fix. At this point your biggest concern is going to be the rings and walls becoming one unit because of corrosion. Sounds like it went in high rpm. Good luck and keep us posted