tractor re-gen question

MACVSOG

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various parts of Texas
i bought what should be my last new tractor about eight years ago. just for light work: a little blading, shredding, moving bales.
had a problem quickly. after a few starts a "check engine type" light came on. called the dealer. was told i was not using it enough.
other tractors i had could be used or idled a little and no problem.

dealer stated three solutions: (1) if i continued the tractor would eventually not start. i could request a service call. that would entail replacing filter and whatever else. (2) have the tractor hauled to the dealer for the same process and return tractor. but the problem would return. (3) before the tractor stopped. completely drive it at a high rpm until the light went away.

i chose the latter. drove in a lower gear at a higher rpm. required about 35-40 minutes for the light to clear and it drove fine. i have had to repeat the procedure many times. once i unloaded several trailers (gooseneck, not semi) of hay with a little idling between. the next time it started the light game on again, so no guarantee. finally have a plan, maybe. i let the tractor warm up for perhaps 20 minutes while i check on another pasture (could take a nap). then i put out two bales of hay about half mile apart all the time in low gear at higher rpm, about one hour on the tractor time per day. so far so good.

today, temperature was 11 degrees with 35+mph wind. tractor would have taken much longer to warm up today. i just threw out bunches of cubes. will continue that until a warmer. at this point a lawyer might say that was a nice story but is there a question in there.

if you plodded through this story does anyone (perhaps from a more northern clime) have a suggestion, idea, or solution for my conundrum. will entertain any.
 
i bought what should be my last new tractor about eight years ago. just for light work: a little blading, shredding, moving bales.
had a problem quickly. after a few starts a "check engine type" light came on. called the dealer. was told i was not using it enough.
other tractors i had could be used or idled a little and no problem.

dealer stated three solutions: (1) if i continued the tractor would eventually not start. i could request a service call. that would entail replacing filter and whatever else. (2) have the tractor hauled to the dealer for the same process and return tractor. but the problem would return. (3) before the tractor stopped. completely drive it at a high rpm until the light went away.

i chose the latter. drove in a lower gear at a higher rpm. required about 35-40 minutes for the light to clear and it drove fine. i have had to repeat the procedure many times. once i unloaded several trailers (gooseneck, not semi) of hay with a little idling between. the next time it started the light game on again, so no guarantee. finally have a plan, maybe. i let the tractor warm up for perhaps 20 minutes while i check on another pasture (could take a nap). then i put out two bales of hay about half mile apart all the time in low gear at higher rpm, about one hour on the tractor time per day. so far so good.

today, temperature was 11 degrees with 35+mph wind. tractor would have taken much longer to warm up today. i just threw out bunches of cubes. will continue that until a warmer. at this point a lawyer might say that was a nice story but is there a question in there.

if you plodded through this story does anyone (perhaps from a more northern clime) have a suggestion, idea, or solution for my conundrum. will entertain any.
What is the year, make and model of your tractor?
 
Like was said they like to be run hard and while they can do what your talking about they don't like it. Couple of things that do help are lower gear and more rpm. Also run it on auto and let it clean when it needs to and NEVER shut it down in the middle of a regen cyle. It is an aggravation to say the least and why I try not to use my DPF tractor to feed and will buy another old one when time comes to replace it.

What brand is it?
 
I don't know what a JD should run at, but I have a Case IH 65C and keep the r.p.m.s at 1500-1700 whether loader work or transporting and feeding bales, etc. It does a DPF Regen about every 3-4 hours of use. These smaller turbo tractors shouldn't be idled or lugged like the old tractors can do.
 
Our 100 hp Kubota is 10 or 11 yrs old and has regened every 8 hrs since new. We only use it about 100 hrs a year so it's a real pain when it regens. We try to run it at a higher rpms and not idle it allot. We also never stop the regen. There's been allot of times I leave it regenning at 2,000 rpm and go finish something else up for 20 minutes. You can take all that stuff off now for about $2k
 
It was 18* this morning when I cranked the tractor and of course it went right to regen mode. I let it warm up for 10 minutes then set out some hay and fed a few bales. Running around at 2,000 rpm on rutted up frozen ground wasn't fun. Whatever idiot thought this was a good idea has has no idea how things work in the real world.
 
Neighboring dairy farm had a good sized New Holland fired up grinding feed, was a very windy day, so they pulled it inside to finish grinding. Tractor went into regen and caught the barn on fire, huge loss. Safe to say that fire wasn't environmentally friendly.
 
It was 18* this morning when I cranked the tractor and of course it went right to regen mode. I let it warm up for 10 minutes then set out some hay and fed a few bales. Running around at 2,000 rpm on rutted up frozen ground wasn't fun. Whatever idiot thought this was a good idea has has no idea how things work in the real world.
It's really pretty stupid on these smaller utility tractors (the non-DEF with the DPF) and requires a lot more fuel to keep the rpms up. I have an old Case IH 485 tractor that can do quite a bit of similar utility work like cleaning pens, moving and stacking bales, etc. on about half the fuel usage rate.
 
Our 100 hp Kubota is 10 or 11 yrs old and has regened every 8 hrs since new. We only use it about 100 hrs a year so it's a real pain when it regens. We try to run it at a higher rpms and not idle it allot. We also never stop the regen. There's been allot of times I leave it regenning at 2,000 rpm and go finish something else up for 20 minutes. You can take all that stuff off now for about $2k
am not disagreeing with your comment. had previously asked a john deere mechanic about removing stuff. he probably gave me the required company answer. said if all removed it would mess up diagnostics and if had a problem they would be unable to diagnose it because their readings would be inaccurate.

maybe different, but i know several who (reportedly, allegedly) removed "stuff" from dodge diesel pickups and had improved mileage and performance. seems improved mileage and performance would help the environment more than burning more fuel ???
 
Putting an emission-ized diesel on a "diet" isn't a bad thing unless you live someplace that checks that sort of thing.

If you have a "weight reduced" diesel you do have to be careful at service time at dealerships. If they do any sort of ECM updates it can cause all kinds of issues.
 
Google "tractor delete" or look on YouTube at some of the kits. It's amazing how some of this equipment sounds and runs after taking all the garbage off. I doubt I would ever do it unless having trouble though. Our Kubota Skid Steer rarely regens but it gets run at near full throttle if we're using it. I'm just glad we don't have anything that uses DEF.
 
Thank you for starting this thread. I have never heard of the DPF regen process until now because our equipment is too old. Interesting... Occasionally wasting 45-minutes worth of diesel fuel keeps the ozone clean. So burning fossil fuels is bad, but burning even more is better. Go figure!
https://nelsontractorco.com/regen-process/
Exactly my thoughts. As long as I can find good used tractors without the tier 4 regs I will. Also I try my best to keep what I have going.
 
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